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really, what is the ground strap telling you?

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I don't honestly know, that's why I posted the photos. I'll have to order a set of 8s.

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go watch the video i posted and come back and report, the message is clear.

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Not sure about a clear message but I dig the jazzy groove........

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I made some changes to the carb this week and took it for a spin today. I went from 76/88 jets and 31/71 air bleeds to 78/88 jets and 29/71 air bleeds. Idle afr was 14.3-14.8, 3000 rpm cruise was 12.3-12.5 and wot was 12.4-12.6. The plugs have color now, I'd guess from being rich at cruise where it spent most time at. I'll order some ngk 8s, for now I'll put in a set of Autolite AR3934 after I work on the cruise.

2,4,6 & 8.

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I made some changes to the carb this week and took it for a spin today. I went from 76/88 jets and 31/71 air bleeds to 78/88 jets and 29/71 air bleeds. Idle afr was 14.3-14.8, 3000 rpm cruise was 12.3-12.5 and wot was 12.4-12.6. The plugs have color now, I'd guess from being rich at cruise where it spent most time at. I'll order some ngk 8s, for now I'll put in a set of Autolite AR3934 after I work on the cruise.

2,4,6 & 8.

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If you didn't put new plugs in before doing the carb. tuning you should. The two plugs on the left are fatter than needed, the one next to the last one on the right side and especially the last one on the right are close to what I like to see When it comes to tuning, lean is mean and cold sprak plugs that don't foul at part throttle are just right

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I made some changes to the carb this week and took it for a spin today. I went from 76/88 jets and 31/71 air bleeds to 78/88 jets and 29/71 air bleeds. Idle afr was 14.3-14.8, 3000 rpm cruise was 12.3-12.5 and wot was 12.4-12.6. The plugs have color now, I'd guess from being rich at cruise where it spent most time at. I'll order some ngk 8s, for now I'll put in a set of Autolite AR3934 after I work on the cruise.

2,4,6 & 8.

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They look better. I am running R5671A-8 NGK's and thinking about switching to AR3934's. They are a direct cross.

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You may need 8`s w/your combo but not sure Justin does and now the heat/timing band looks better but I could be wrong.............

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look a little better...still too much timing and wrong heat range....

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I guess different guys read em differently...........years ago the heat range was measured(by some)as the amount of threads colored going up the plug as seen from the ground strap ie; 2-3 threads was considered good 1 too cold 5 too hot. I know when I went to a colder plug the band on the ground strap mover farther out towards the end.

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look a little better...still too much timing and wrong heat range....

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I guess different guys read em differently...........years ago the heat range was measured(by some)as the amount of threads colored going up the plug as seen from the ground strap ie; 2-3 threads was considered good 1 too cold 5 too hot. I know when I went to a colder plug the band on the ground strap mover farther out towards the end.

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go watch the video i posted and learn you some of this new technology

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look a little better...still too much timing and wrong heat range....

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I guess different guys read em differently...........years ago the heat range was measured(by some)as the amount of threads colored going up the plug as seen from the ground strap ie; 2-3 threads was considered good 1 too cold 5 too hot. I know when I went to a colder plug the band on the ground strap mover farther out towards the end.

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go watch the video i posted and learn you some of this new technology

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If you want Tony I can show you other sites that
say the ground strap is timing.. and I can move the
blue line with the timing... that changes the heat
in the cyl also... let me know if you want me to post it

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i have seen that, who is the author? thats what you want to find out? how can timing make the band on the ground strap move?

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This guys have a bit of knowledge
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

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what ever you want to believe i guess, i can see timing changing exhaust gas temp but don't see how it can change the ground strap. the only thing that can change that is the plug heat range imo.

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I guess you can think the way you want... I'll stay
with what I and many others think also... so we will
call it equal... hows that

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fine with me I still would like you to explain how it can single out the ground strap and change it.

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Simple... start the burn earlier and the temp in
the cyl goes up... if its later it cooler and burns
more in the pipes... I have backed the timing down
on my junk and seen the color move closer to the tip
of the radius on the strap... this is fact not just a
opinion

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fine with me I still would like you to explain how it can single out the ground strap and change it.

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Simple... start the burn earlier and the temp in
the cyl goes up... if its later it cooler and burns
more in the pipes... I have backed the timing down
on my junk and seen the color move closer to the tip
of the radius on the strap... this is fact not just a
opinion

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but don't loose sight of the fact that we are not adjusting timing or A/F to make the plugs look happy. Gotta make adjustments in those areas for best HP or at the track, best MPH. Then correct plug choice so they are happy and live for a while - which I can't seem to accomplish.

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fine with me I still would like you to explain how it can single out the ground strap and change it.

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Simple... start the burn earlier and the temp in
the cyl goes up... if its later it cooler and burns
more in the pipes... I have backed the timing down
on my junk and seen the color move closer to the tip
of the radius on the strap... this is fact not just a
opinion

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but don't loose sight of the fact that we are not adjusting timing or A/F to make the plugs look happy. Gotta make adjustments in those areas for best HP or at the track, best MPH. Then correct plug choice so they are happy and live for a while - which I can't seem to accomplish.

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I know your playing with a boosted engine so on yours
are the plugs fouling out or burning up