A capscrew, 3/8" diameter is right, two nuts and two 3/8" fender washers will get the job done.
If the head of the capscrew is going to tear up the back of the pedal, a button headed capscrew won't.

R.

I don't use the positive stop, but don't worry about how high up the clutch pedal sits. It is just slightly above the brake pedal at rest.

My other main concern, aside that it full disengages, it that the spring on the clutch throwout arm pulls the throw-out bearing off the clutch fingers when its released. Mine spring hooks conveniently to a bolt hole in my scattershield.

I also removed the overcenter spring.

How much travel do you guys have in your clutch pedal? Like I said with mine, in order for it to be adjusted correctly I only have like 2 maybe 3 inches of travel and when it is fully returned it is about 3 inches from the floor pan/firewall.

Anyone?

The car started as a 340, 23 spline 4 speed and a hayes clutch. I put everything together and went through the transmission and everything worked fine in the car; clutch, transmission, shifter, etc. All new shifter linkage and rods, levers and clutch rod kit.

Next I put my hemi in the car with a 18 spline hemi 4 speed and a Mcleod rxt twin disc kit. Stock replacement bellhousing, new clutch linkage kit and pilot bushing from brewers performance. I used the same shifter linkage, mechanism, and rods that were on the car before and worked perfectly when I had them on there with the old motor and tranmission. When installing the clutch kit, I measured all the clearances with feeler gauges and everything was in spec that the gave me in the directions.

Now I have the problem with the clutch going overcenter when I push the pedal more than halfway down. The only way that I can adjust it so that it doesn't go overcenter and re-engage is when the clutch is adjusted to the point where the pedal is about 2-3 inches from the floor when it is all the way up and the 2-3 inches is all the travel that I have in the clutch.

I called the McLeod tech line three different times and the first two times the guys words were "I don't know what to tell you". The other time I was told that I can send it back and they would adjust the travel on the pressure plate fingers. However, I don't want to have to continuously take the clutch out, send it back, wait for them to adjust it, put it back in and find out that it needs more adjustment and repeat the whole process over and over. That is why I was asking and hoping to find some advice to make it work with what I have now.

Not being Mopar wise in this particular area,,,does the clutch release(goes from external clutch linkage to throw out bearing) pivot on a ball just as with Chevy?

Is this pivot ball adjustable as with some Chevy balls( basically changing the angle of the fulcrum)' or are their different balls offered as certain GM configurations.

Is it possible to install either the throw out bearing or either clutch disc in backward,,,not suggesting that you did, just asking. It is possible on some cars to do this.

It is possible as I had mentioned in your other thread to severely distort a clutch disc if one leaves the transmission 'hanging' before trans main shaft is throughly ensconced into the pilot bearing,,,given all additional info now, doubt this is the problem.

Are you certain that is correct throw out bearing

Is it a Borg and Beck clutch or a diaphragm pressure plate. Is it possible that any fingers are compromised in some way,,,broken or distorted.

How does new clutch linkage compare dimensionally to that which you replaced?

You are certain that engine is properly placed via correct motor mounts and K member is all in place properly.

Did you replace flywheel and is it correct if you did,,,if thicker(or thinner) can throw off geometry of pivot ball, pressure plate and clutch release lever.

Assuming that you did not replace clutch pedal assembly and correct bell housing is used.

Damn, running out of ideas. McLeod's are the experts in the room, it is there clutch assembly(though not to insist it is there product at fault) surprised how they have shucked and jived you off with no solution. If it is happening to you, likely has happened to many who went before you so you would think that they would have seen this before.

Have you had the clutch out for a re-examination of all components since original installation to find if any damage to any?

Where earlier I said my dough was on the clutch as the cause of poor shift action, I now give even odds that is defective pressure plate or the geometry of the pivot ball,,,if this is used with Mopar too.

How's about a hydraulic clutch as a backup?

I have the same problem with my twin disc. When I adjust the pedal for an inch of free play the throwout bearing is depressing the clutch fingers.
I think there is not enough bell housing depth. What throwout bearing are you using?

There isnt a ball, just the fork is on a bracket that is inside the bellhousing. However it only goes on one way so there's no adjustment.

The throwout bearing can only go in one way and it is possible to install the discs backwards, but they are labeled with a sticker from the factory showing which side is the pressure plate side and which is the flywheel side. I double checked that they were facing the right way when installing them.

I installed a throwout bearing from McLeod and according to the part number it was the correct one, it seemed to fit fine too.

The clutch is a borg and beck and the transmission never rested on the fingers during the install, so unless they were slightly bent from shipping, they should be fine.

The linkage is factory replacement and the only difference from the previous setup is that the adjusting rod is straight for the big block and angled for the small block.

For the motor mounts I used the Schumacher hemi conversion mounts and supposedly people have said that the motors position is slightly different from stock, but this shouldn't affect the amount of distance the throw is for the fork. If anything it might cause the linkage to bind from being at a different angle; however I don't have a binding problem, just too much travel.

The flywheel I used came with the clutch kit and is made specifically for that clutch setup.

I don't want to install a hydraulic setup if I don't have too.

I have yet to take the trans and clutch back out for inspection. Ive been looking it over hoping to find a stupid mistake and fix the problem, but Ive looked over this a hundred times and I cant come up with anything. I appreciate all that help that has been given but Im pretty much at a loss of what to do at this point. I cant find any other clutch that is rated for the power for my engine, if I did have to go down that road. My engine dynoed right at 700 hp and the only other kit that I can find that is close is only rated to 500 hp.

Hanging transmission would distort clutch disc, not pressure plate fingers. Think heavy transmission shoved into disc splines but not into pilot hole. Think pull down on transmission and the damage that might ensue to clutch disc and the corruption to disc runout. Can be enough to keep clutch surfaces contacting both pressure plate and flywheel even though clutch pedal all the way down.

However sounding now more and more like somehow defective pressure plate or it's internal set up adjustments.

Minor suspicion motor mount positioning of engine, no options for clutch lever pivot, likely discard this.

Hate to say it but perhaps time to pull trans and clutch if all else is as you believe, in order.

I recently had to pull oil pan to resolve oil leaks on my 512 stroker 5 times to finally resolve a circus of missteps by 4 different so called reputable manufacturers and/vendors. And of course my fault in trusting each of them that they knew what they were doing or had the quality control to ensure that they did.

As I believe it was President Reagan was wont to say: 'Trust but verify'.

Have you read this page thoroughly from Brewer's Transmissions?

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=105

You did say you had a small block in the car didn't you and now you have a big block, but are using the same clutch linkage Z-bar?

Also, you are running a 700 hp hemi with a stock bellhousing? That's just plain crazy! Have you ever seen a car that had a clutch explode? it does happen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9vpcyxvvC8

Get rid of the over-center spring on the clutch pedal under the dash! That is the starting point. I had the same problems until I got rid of the spring in my Dart. After that it was cake to adjust. Feels like a normal clutch then also. Plus make sure your geometry is correct in your Z-bar and other linkage. It all works together.

You won't solve this until you get rid of the over center spring.

Here's an idea: Order a torque shaft replacement pin and mount it to the torque shaft leaver that actuates the clutch fork. Mount it at a position closer to the pivot point of the torque shaft. This will reduce the amount of travel and it will need all of that pedal travel to operate the clutch. This is just an idea to consider as I'm not a clutch expert.

http://brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TSP

I did remove the overcenter spring from the pedal. It didn't make any difference. They do make the clutch kit in a borg and beck assembly. Here is the link to the one that I bought.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MC64408B

I am not an expert, but isn't this all a matter of pedal ratio, fork ratio to calculate pedal travel required to the travel of the clutch for disengagement. Maybe get out a tape measure and see what it figures out to be.

Does it require a lot of pressure to push the pedal through the release travel? I do not think you want to run the 3 finger original street twin without the over center spring. The original street twin also comes in a diphragm version and this one is tougher than the common 800hp and 1000hp twins. I run this diphragm 1200hp version and THIS clutch works well without the spring but is hard on the leg. It feels lik it requires twice the pedal effort we are used to from more modern cars. Mcleod describes the pedal effort to 'slightly heavier than stock' and that is for the diphragm version. I also might follow the idea of inproper pedal ratio - if the pedal is hard.
Lars