Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1624595
06/29/14 04:58 AM
06/29/14 04:58 AM
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70Duster440
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Quote:
that thing is nice work
Thanks, Scratchn'. We're excited to see what we end up with - and debating how long the 8.25 rear might last behind the 440, if only street driven, once we add a Trac lok.
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 77ProStreet]
#1624597
07/02/14 04:18 AM
07/02/14 04:18 AM
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70Duster440
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70Duster440 ..... 15x7 and 15x8 Cop car wheels with caps and tires, 215/60/15 front and 275/60/15 rear tires in near new condition. $600 for all
Sending PM - thx
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Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624600
07/05/14 11:03 PM
07/05/14 11:03 PM
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70Duster440
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a) Cut X in rivet head, b) Chisel head off, c) Drive out with big hammer and punch, d) Repeat... The boy removes the rear cross-member to make room for a Mustang fuel tank. Only 8 more rivets to remove to flip the front spring hangers. Now, if we could only find the right Chebby drop shackles with 1/2" bushing holes. Meanwhile, the joys of rust repair... Can't wait to do the drivers side. Not!
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624601
07/06/14 10:24 AM
07/06/14 10:24 AM
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Joined: May 2003
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scratchnfotraction
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while you are removing rivets, why don't you remove the rear hanger and do a shackle flip?
then flip your front one to drop it a tad more.
the one thing I don't like about my drop shackle is the wheel hop I get with the stock/drop shackles and axle under leaf.
with the shackle flipped and axle on the top of leaf I get no wheel hop what so ever under the 440 truck or the stepside.
the drop shackles and 5 speed are giving me fits with the axle under the spring/stock or dropped. the locker will bounce the tires super hard.
I have a set of SSM lift bars that were on the 440 truck and worked great with the mono leafs I had under there but I went back to stock leafs.
I will be flipping the stepside axle back on top of the leafs with the SSM lift bars to control the wheel hop with the 5 speed..I hope
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 07/06/14 10:28 AM.
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1624602
07/06/14 02:26 PM
07/06/14 02:26 PM
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Mike P
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“…….and debating how long the 8.25 rear might last behind the 440, if only street driven, once we add a Trac lok…….” Just my but I think it will probably be pretty short lived with a 440, even with reasonably sized street tires. Personally I think I would dig up an 8 ¾ or 9 ¼ before putting any time or effort into the 8 ¼. If you can’t find a truck axle, the 76-78 full sized Chryslers (Newports and New Yorkers) are exactly the same width as the D100s of the era you’re working on, even take the same size brakes and drums that the factory used when they put them under the D100s. The only real difference is the spring perches are on the bottom of the axle instead of the top. I’m not sure if the perch spacing is the same between trucks and cars but if it is leaving them where they are is good for a 6 inch rear drop. My experience with these is that they are not in high demand and usually sell pretty cheap and you might even get lucky and find one with a Trac Loc.
Last edited by Mike P; 07/06/14 06:55 PM.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold 1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold 1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears) under construction
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: Mike P]
#1624603
07/06/14 06:34 PM
07/06/14 06:34 PM
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scratchnfotraction
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the 72-74 4x4 truck 8 3/4 I have is 59" flange to flange with spring perch center at 43" had the 5 on 5.5 wbp same as my 76-78 Newport/c-body 8 3/4 59" flange to flange with the 5 on 4.5 wbp and I was able to swap them. (spring perch not the same center) the 67 polara/c-body 8 3/4 I have is 55" flange to flange and tucks a 10" rim real nice in the fender also. I run the A-body 8 3/4 52" flange to flange IIRC in my 88-440 truck spring perch centers are 43" same as truck. with the shackle flip it bolts right in on top of springs with car shock plates, tucks a 12" wide rim with 4.5 backset with a 29x15x15 M/T in the fenders with tub work. no wheel hop with my fattys
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 07/06/14 06:39 PM.
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1624604
07/06/14 06:59 PM
07/06/14 06:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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70Duster440
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Quote:
while you are removing rivets, why don't you remove the rear hanger and do a shackle flip?
You mean install a set of front hangers on the rear, flipped?
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: Mike P]
#1624605
07/06/14 07:11 PM
07/06/14 07:11 PM
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70Duster440
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Personally I think I would dig up an 8 ¾ or 9 ¼ before putting any time or effort into the 8 ¼.
If you can’t find a truck axle, the 76-78 full sized Chryslers (Newports and New Yorkers) are exactly the same width as the D100s of the era you’re working on, even take the same size brakes and drums that the factory used when they put them under the D100s.
Good suggestions - and that's part of the conundrum. I'd like an 8.75 but that's not in the budget. And it's pretty slim pickings locally for anything older - truck or passenger. Then there are guys claiming they've run their 8.25 behind a 440 for years "no problem". Hmmmmm....
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624606
07/06/14 08:43 PM
07/06/14 08:43 PM
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scratchnfotraction
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Quote:
Quote:
while you are removing rivets, why don't you remove the rear hanger and do a shackle flip?
You mean install a set of front hangers on the rear, flipped?
yes, install a set of front hangers on the rear and flip the shackle like the pic I posted.
this will lift a 4x4 4-5 inches with axle under spring and drop 4-5 inches with axle on top of spring.
it will move the spring down allowing room for axle so you do not have to c-notch the frame.
gives the truck a nice stance for the street/track. not too low for street duty.
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1624607
07/06/14 08:53 PM
07/06/14 08:53 PM
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scratchnfotraction
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here is my stepside with the shackle flip and axle flop. you can then flip the front hanger to get it a tad lower if you wanted. with a c-notch you can use a front hanger on the rear upside down and not flip the shackle to get even lower as in scrapin. I could let one of my 8 3/4 housing/axle go ifin you was interested to ship it that far. have a core chunk that needs rebuilt if you need it also. would not need much tubbing for the 55" housing 30" axles
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1624608
07/06/14 11:39 PM
07/06/14 11:39 PM
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70Duster440
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I could let one of my 8 3/4 housing/axle go ifin you was interested to ship it that far. have a core chunk that needs rebuilt if you need it also.
would not need much tubbing for the 55" housing 30" axles
Thanks, Mike! PM sent.
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Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624610
07/12/14 09:46 PM
07/12/14 09:46 PM
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Truck was lowered in the front with van LCA's. For the rear we're initially going to keep it simple with lowering shackles. We started with a set of Superior Automotive #13-4100 Lowering Shackles commonly found at O'Reilly's/Autozone - $40. They're a "universal" piece designed for several Chevy's and one late model Dodge. (#13-4200 is for a F150 and even longer). The first issue is that they require 9/16" fasteners. while all of the related bolts on our D100 are 1/2". Also, the replacement shackle bushing inner sleeve is a good 1/8" longer than the original, so it won't fit into the hanger without some persuasion. We drilled out the holes in the hanger to 9/16" (for 1 new 9/16" nut/bolt on each side). Then, using a torch, we heated the hanger and spread it wider to accept the new shackle bushing. It still wouldn't quite fit in and remain square to the bushing so we simply ground each end of the bushing inner sleeve till it was nearly flush with the urethane bushing. Worked great. The bolt holes in the other end of the shackle need to be properly reduced from 9/16" to 1/2" since that's what the leaf spring bushing requires. We enlarged the shackle holes to 3/4" with a unibit and welded a 3/4" bushing/spacer (3/4" OD, 3/8" ID x 1/8") found at the hardware store into each hole and then drilled the ID of the spacer to 1/2". Worked perfectly. Should be good for a 2+ inch drop in the tail. Still leave a slight forward rake.
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Re: Progress: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624611
07/13/14 12:14 AM
07/13/14 12:14 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
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good old make it fit. check pinion angle and see what you got..may need to wiat till bed weight is on there to load the springs. and seems to be the reason for my wheel hop, nose to far down. floor looks great.
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Fuel Tank: Father/Son - BB D100 Project
[Re: 70Duster440]
#1624612
07/17/14 11:44 PM
07/17/14 11:44 PM
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70Duster440
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Time to get a fuel tank sorted out. Got rid of the cab tank a long time ago and hated the frame mounted poly. Started with a 22 gal. tank kit from Mustangs Unlimited (Ebay) that includes a sender and filler coupler - $125 delivered. It easily fits between the frame rails with no interference (except for the rear crossmember which we temporarily removed). Fabbed a perimeter frame for the tank with 10 foot piece of 1" x 1" x .120" wall tubing ($20). Used existing holes in the tank flange to mount it to the frame. Added mounting tabs made from 3/16" flat stock and mounted the frame just forward of where the frame rails begin to kick up. Wanted to be sure the filler neck would not interfere with the rear-most brace on the bed. Filling will be accomplished via a trap door in the bed floor. Nuts welded to the inside of the frame rails will make dropping the tank super easy. Four 7/16" bolts secure the assembly to the truck frame. Bolted in place, it should act as a lower/partial cross-member. The upper half of the original cross member was cut away and then bolted back into it's original position - between the two rear leaf spring hangers. It'll clear the tank and help keep the frame rails parallel.
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