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Monte,
I was being sarcastic!

I am constantly in awe of the advances being made in the heads up classes, and many of us are indebted to those who are willing to spend the sweat, time, effort, and dollars to go that fast. The trickle down from those hard earned lessons is that everyone has the opportunity to step up their program with better, more reliable parts.

If they choose to take off their blinders, and pay attention...

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Monte,
I was being sarcastic!

I am constantly in awe of the advances being made in the heads up classes, and many of us are indebted to those who are willing to spend the sweat, time, effort, and dollars to go that fast. The trickle down from those hard earned lessons is that everyone has the opportunity to step up their program with better, more reliable parts.

If they choose to take off their blinders, and pay attention...

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Gotcha Billy..........One of the drag radial cars I am involved heavily with, weighs 2750lbs at our class weight, has a 738 nitrous motor and goes 1.0 60fts on a regular basis. This is a stock suspension type car and has been 4.20s at 175mph in Outlaw Drag Radial trim. Over the years, we have broken EVERYTHING in the driveline. I KNOW what lives and what doesn't in these cars. At this point, our driveline, be it trans, driveshaft, rear end housing or center section, would be right at home in a Pro-Mod, yet we need it in a stock suspension drag radial car to make it live.

We have a 10k trans and converter......A $1200 driveshaft........a $2500 center section........probably about the same in the housing and suspension components, as well as $4000 worth of shocks. But that is what it TAKES to run at that level.

When I first started helping with this car, it was running in the 5.20-5.30 range. So I am acutely aware of what it takes to get to this point and what all the weak spots in between are going to be. I don't make suggestions just to have guys spend a bunch of unnecessary money. I make suggestions based on experience and maybe have them spend the money ONCE, instead of several times.

You always hear the expression "more than one way to skin the cat".......well, when it comes to this stuff, the answer is NO, not really. There is only ONE way to do it and that is RIGHT.

Just this past week, we took $1600 worth of rear shocks off and are trying $2000 worth of NEW rear shocks, in an attempt to make the car even better. It never ends.

Monte

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kind of like my poor boy anology when I was worried about running stock LY rods long ago. If Billy could spray them deep into the nines... mine would be fine

Great read Monte

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So, uhhhhh.... Say a guy has a full bodied 68 Charger with 500HP... Drag Radials and foot braking. Is it going to Kaboom or what?

You guys got me nervous enough to do the billet front drum in my Copes built 727, now I am nervous about the 8 3/4 rear.

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So, uhhhhh.... Say a guy has a full bodied 68 Charger with 500HP... Drag Radials and foot braking. Is it going to Kaboom or what?

You guys got me nervous enough to do the billet front drum in my Copes built 727, now I am nervous about the 8 3/4 rear.

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let me put it this way, I wouldn't do it. when it does go boom it will probably take out your tranny. it did on mine at just a little over 500hp E body. and that was not using a drag radial. and good parts in the 83/4.

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Tree.....Please explain good parts and what weight?

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So, uhhhhh.... Say a guy has a full bodied 68 Charger with 500HP... Drag Radials and foot braking. Is it going to Kaboom or what?

You guys got me nervous enough to do the billet front drum in my Copes built 727, now I am nervous about the 8 3/4 rear.

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let me put it this way, I wouldn't do it. when it does go boom it will probably take out your tranny. it did on mine at just a little over 500hp E body. and that was not using a drag radial. and good parts in the 83/4.

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Tree.....Please explain good parts and what weight?

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Ouch. I get a little nervous with a 4 speed in front of an 8.75 that will see little track time after these posts.

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So, uhhhhh.... Say a guy has a full bodied 68 Charger with 500HP... Drag Radials and foot braking. Is it going to Kaboom or what?

You guys got me nervous enough to do the billet front drum in my Copes built 727, now I am nervous about the 8 3/4 rear.

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Ouch. I get a little nervous with a 4 speed in front of an 8.75 that will see little track time after these posts.

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I blew up an 8.75 behind a 340 , 4 speed in an A body with greasy B.F. Goodrich tires. There is a reason that Chrysler put out a TSB for the B body 8.75, 3.91 geared cars that came in with blown up rears to replace the 8 3/4 with a 4.10 Dana60 ...

But that has nothing to do with this subject, you can throw thousands of dollars at the 8.75, the weak link is the ring an pinion and there is noting you can do about that.

Monte is right, a series race car needs to go with the strongest rear, drop the big coin once or drop more till you finally get the rear you should have.

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No serious race car for me, but I see a Dana in my future. Hmmmm. I have a 4-speed Dart, as well...

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That's pure baloney. The diameter of the pinion depends on just three things:
1. Ring gear diameter
2. Gear ratio
3. Where the pinion is with respect to the ring gear.

If you want an 8 3/4 with a larger diameter pinion, get a 2.76 gearset.

If you want more teeth to engage, get a Ford 9", the pinion is lower on the ring gear.

Otherwise, you're stuck with how Mopar engineers designed it. They put the pinion higher to increase efficiency. They decided on 8 3/4 as a good diameter to provide adequate strength, not being soothsayers (who could see people hooking 600lb-ft engines to the front and with 3500 lb on two 12" wide tires on the back.)

The REASON the gear teeth break is the pinion and ring gear are pushing away from each other. The farther apart they go, the more the moment on the gear tooth root increases. Voila! Teeth break.

There's no magic involved. Ford's 9" has a slightly larger ring gear but the major advantage is the pinion is supported on both ends. This is also the 9"s biggest disadvantage as well, there's no room for a decent limited slip because it'd run into the pinion support.

Trade-offs, trade-offs.......

R.

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The 9" in aftermarket form is a stout piece, no doubt but you can't use any Ford parts in it or it's just another junker

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but I see a Dana in my future. Hmmmm. I have a 4-speed Dart, as well...

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