Will do, if you can rustle up some slicks by this weekend, you could take it down to Barona for the San Diego Antique Drags.

that would be sweet, but its tore down for the cam swap right now. i'll probably get it running on Sunday. I just missed a killer deal on some used Hoosiers here in Riverside.
$50 for 30x9x15 drag radials... sold yesterday tho .. guess i'll keep lookin.

odds are traction is the key....make all the power you want...unless it hooks up, and weight transfer occurs...your gonna sit and spin...you need some of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mickey-Thompson-...4b2&vxp=mtr

I thinly you should use MT ET Streets. The radials still spin.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3755/overview/

hi ,

easy 12s with a carter electric fuel pump mounted near the tank !
have fun !

I think it should do it, provided you get slicks.
It may take some tuning and practice to get there, but I think that combo with slicks should run 12.70s

You should be able to be faster than that. I ran 12.90's with much less motor. I'd guess all sorted out and hooking you'd be in the 12.50-70 range.

When I installed the new springs I laid a straight edge across the valve tips. The exhaust tips were about 1/8" higher than the intakes... basically proves that hardened exhaust seats have never been installed. Still makes consistent compression tho. Even registered consistently with a leak down test.. Not like a new motor, but all cylinders in the good range..

Drag radials will work fine at your power level and no swapping tires at the track.Get it to hook first and then look at a stall converter.After that you can swap carbs at the track and look for a little more.
If you are on a tight budget forget about a cam.Tune what you have and look for deals on used parts.

Everyone here posted some Great recommendations & I'd probably follow about 99.99999% of them, especially going out & seeing what the car does first. I'm assuming this is a dual-purpose car & being put together with "stash" (spare) money to keep cost down & you're doing your own work.
Assuming all that's true, & once you have a baseline established, I would (in order): 1) get a good converter
2) get some slicks
3) loosen up the front-end to get some weight
transfer & clamp the rear springs
4) make certain you have good fuel flow. Better
lines,pump, sump tank, whatever it takes
5)Lighten the car anyway you can. A good rule of
thumb is 100lbs= 1/10sec.
6) Look at the F.A.S.T. series cars. These guys
are running killer times & using alot of old
school tricks that may apply to your ride.















+

First, drag radials are MORE THAN enough tire. Quite a few guys are in the 7's and didn't one brand X guy just go 6.99 on DR's?? Second, consider this edited post I did the other day...

The 78 (440, OE crank rods and cast pistons...way down in the hole) was yanked from a wrecked 60K mile Monaco.

To it was added a MP .484 stick, redone 915 heads, (stock ports, OE valve sizes), Eddy Torker, 850 TQ, recurved dizzy, small tube headers (1 3/4"?) 11" hemi converter, 4.56's in a all OE 65 Belvedere Wagon. Best of 12.32 @ 110 open headers on 9" x 28" slicks Car weighed 4,2xx lbs.

The 76 (440 again OE crank rods and cast pistons) was found sitting idle in a 76 3/4 pu that had an been t-boned and rolled in 1980. It was given to me in 1985. So, after SITTING FOR FIVE YEARS:

Tossed in the infamous MP .557 cam, redone 452 heads (2.14/1.81, home ported to MP templates), Holly SD intake, Holley 750 DP, MP elec dizzy, 2" Pro Parts headers, 4.30 gears, 10 x 28" McReary tires in a all OE 72 Duster, with full exhaust. 11.70's were too easy. And I mean OE STOCK 72 Duster. Full interior, all OE glass and sheet metal, flat hood, no scoop, steel rally wheels. Was 3440 with me in the seat according to my old notes.

As far as your OE fuel system not being enough? Guess what both cars above ran? Yep..OE STOCK fuel tanks, 5/16" lines and mechanical pumps. On the Duster, since the motor had been sitting so long, I splurged and got a reman fuel pump. Wooooo whoooo!

Further interesting to note: I added 3/8' alum line and a Carter elec pump to the Duster. Still ran 11.70's. The peanut gallery all said that I needed the "trick" Holley blue pump and bigger line. Okay...in with 1/2" line, a sump added to the tank and that blue pump. Wow...11.70's still.

The junkyard Dart in the pic gave me a best of 11.41 @ 117 with a 5/16" line and auto parts store reman mechanical pump.

Let's consider this from a well known Mopar guy, Mr. Porter:

QUOTE: [the 5/16" fuel line....everyone seems to get all worked up about that.
fact is......in 1995, i had a roller cammed 448 in it with ported 906's. same fuel system, flat hood, crank driven water pump, battery up front.....same 3670lbs.....running well into the 10's @ 125+(best of 10.61).]

I have often wondered why we spend big dollars on billet cement mixer pumps, -8 and -10 lines...just so a .110" needle and seat can meter the fuel. Hmmm

All that said, I'd go run the car right now the way it sits. Make 5 good runs and get a good baseline, go from there. Besides, it's WAY fun chasing and reaching that ET/MPH goal you've set for yourself.

My sons 400 Dart pictuted here has run 11.40's @ 117 with the stock 5/16 fuel line as he has just not got around to changing it. As long as the rest of the fuel system is ok you can run in the 11's with a 5/16 line and as said some run in the 10's with it. Of course a larger line always helps but for a 12 second car the 5/16 line should do the job. Good luck , Ron

I agree about the 5/16th line. I used to run 11ohs at 120+ with a holley 950 and mechanical fuel pump.

You should have no prob running 12s with that combo at that weight. I ran 10.91 @ 120.56 in my 3100 lb. Duster with "bone stock" 906s & a XE284H cam, PTC 9.5" 4400 stall, 4.10 gears, 9.73 compression, shifted at 5600, It ran 11.12 with a PTC 11" 2800 stall, 1.57 60ft.

Heck i ran 12.5s @ 105 in my 71 Swinger with a junkyard 360 magnum shifting at 5K.

Hey , thanks again guys for all the helpful input. I really appreciate it. I just need to get this cam swap I got goin buttoned up , get her tuned the best I can on the street and head to the track.

Some good tires. Install an electric fuel pump and make sure your fuel lines are clear including the sock in your tank. If you pick up a good enough fuel pump you can bypass the stock pump and route the fuel line away from heat. You can also pick up a spring kit to tune your secondaries on the Holley.