Rod is replaced, storms gave me a break and so I drove about 30 miles yesterday with with some tuning changes and have an update.

As it turns out, I have the same lean condition everyone else has. It appeared intermittently only in first gear and is more predominant with an incline and under a load. My rear drums don't help since they take a second to release.

Secondly, I am lean in cruise mode running between 13.1-14. Lastly, I have determined that I like the metering springs to move SLIGHTLY above cruise so I have nailed down the mid-top settings. Here is my carb changes:

1) Moved the accelerator rod to the top hole. This gives the carb more fuel off-idle and NEARLY solved the lean condition out of first.
2) For now, the Primaries as still Stock 1432 (.110)
3) During power situations (before WOT) I was still running lean (16+) so I changed the secondaries two steps larger - 1433 (.113)
4) To keep the primaries the same and provide even more fuel to the secondaries I moved to Rods - 1458 (75/37) Stock Primary, Richer Secondary
5) With the stock springs I REALLY had to stomp on it to get the A/F to drop down into the 12.5-13 POWER mixture so I change the springs to the Pink 7-in HG

The results are as follows:

Idle: is still in the low 13's. I simply cannot adjust it any leaner without sacrificing too much Vacuum. I am OK with this number.
Off-Idle: May still give me an intermittent lean surge but I will test further and test various pump nozzles. You can see it on the A/F gauge. As you ease out the clutch and give it some gas, the A/F will drop a point as the pump is starting to load and then the A/F will shoot up to about 16 (lean) and then the engine will stumble. More throttle enriches the mixture and all is good. This takes about a second.
Cruise: is a TAD rich. I average about 13.8 depending on load and Vacuum. I am considering moving to a smaller primary jet today to see if I can do something about this. I expect to have to overcompensate the Accelerator Pump if I do this.
Off-Cruise: (slight power) gets me into the 14.1-14.9 range which has a good feel.
Power : So I like the power to kick in before I put the pedal to the floor so I moved to the pink spring. During passing or a more aggressive pedal push the mixture MAY get to 15.5 then it will drop down to around 13 and you can feel the car liking that extra fuel.
WOT : This is really no different than power. Since I moved to a 7 GB spring, the metering opens up at a higher vacuum (lower RPM)so I get power without having to floor it.

I am no carb expert at ALL, but I can tell you that these easy adjustments fit well with the way I spec'ed the engine. I was looking for the HP and torque to come in the 1000-2500 RPM range and so these tweaks with the carb are providing the mixture I need with the cam and intake manifold I chose. Every transition is smooth and without surges or drops in A/F. I will have to make a movie of the transitions so you can see the ups and downs. I need to lean out the low end a little more and then this car will be dialed in.

With the 440 and RPM Intake my 1411 is giving me a slightly rich idle, a fairly consistent off-idle (working on it) a slightly rich cruise (working on it) and a fantastic power circuit.

Today I am going to work on the pump mixture, lean out the cruise and report back. I have a feeling that by leaning out the primaries I will make the lean stumble more predominant but we will see. I really don't want to cruise in full power nor do I want to cruise with a rich mixture.

RapidRobert, thanks for the reply. Don't I want my high-vac cruise to be closer to 14.1? I am thinking I need to slightly lean that out as it currently bounces around in the 13's. The best way I can think of to handle that is move the primaries down to the next smaller jet.

I forgot what numbers we were shootin for (I gotta head out the door ASAP) but the jet will change cruise and power and a rod with a different cruise (same power) will only change the cruise

Try reducing the upper step on the current metering rods a little bit, say to .072 to .073, for a better mixture at light, part throttle high vacume cruise That will make it fatter as you know, the other option is to go to the .107 primary jets and then try the smaller upper step metering rods to see what that gives you What fuel are you using and does it have Ethanol in it? If so what amount currently? If your using the ethanol blended E10 then you'll need a fatter AFR than without it to get it to drive well

Cab_Burge,

Super unleaded is the fuel I use so I expect it to have 8-10% ethanol.

Since my high-vacuum cruise is in the 13's, doesn't that mean I need less fuel and not more? Moving to the .107 on the primaries should thin that out a little and as you say I can always go with a smaller rod if it gets too thin.

Following this thread as I just installed an 800 Thunder on my 440. Right out of the box I had much better throttle response over my 750 vac sec Holley.
I am not experiencing any off idle stumbles at all.

Only thing I am battling is a "dirty" idle. Has the same eye watering, clothes stinking smell as my Holley did.
Only installed it Monday & really didnt do any tuning to it except try & play with mixture screws (didnt really help)
Looking forward to more of your updates!

My plugs are RJ12YC

Good luck with your dirty idle. I agree with Robert on attacking that one.

On Friday, I will be leaning my mains and adding a richer pump nozzle. I am hoping that will being my high-vacuum cruise closer to 14 and help me finish eliminating my lean off-idle. I will check in as soon as make those adjustments.

I also figured out how to get logging working on this A/F gauge so I am going to cruise around with my computer to collect data and then create some charts to show various A/F readings. I know that's kinda geeky but it will help me look at the mixture in far more detail.

OK, I am calling this one done. 440 mild cam. New 1411 running a 4 speed and RPM Intake.

Primaries - Stock 1432 (.110)
Secondaries - 1433 (.113) Two steps larger
Rods - 1458 (75/37) Stock Primary, Richer Secondary
Springs - Pink 7-in HG
Pump Nozzle - 43

Increasing the Pump Nozzle to the 43, running a slightly rich idle and putting the pump linkage to the top hole eliminated my lean stumble.

The Nozzle, rod and spring work helped me tune performance and reaction for low-vacuum cruise and WOT.

The car runs like a beast, cranks easily and I don't have to burn the clutch at every stop sign.

I am going to leave my O2 meter connected to the car for another week or two while I check and double-check my cruise mixture but no more lean spikes.

My observation is that if you have a 1411 and you want to make it work, you probably can but do yourself a favor and use an O2 meter to help speed things up. If you have a 440 and an RPM or torker intake and are looking for a carb, get the 800. It'll cost you about the same as a 1411, jet kit and nozzle kit.

I am connecting my O2 gauge to a computer next week to try to get some O2 scatter graphs with my current tune. I will post them if I can find someone to help me work the computer while I drive!

Thanks! Once I get the scatter graphs, I am going to repeat the logging with the bung in the other pipe just to make sure things are balanced.

Then the bung comes out and I will store everything and just plug the hole. I think you are right in that a unheated O2 Sensor will corrode.

OK, I have two updates:

1) I determined that I did not have the correct plate between my carb and the intake. Performer and RPM manifolds require a cover or gasket that covers and seals the additional carb holes on the intake manifold. Part #9266 or #2732. I bought #9266 to help dissipate some of the heat and I noticed far more consistent vacuum at idle and cruise. The A/F doesn't bounce around anymore.
2) A buddy loaned me his AVS 800 and I am sold. Others have said it, Edelbrock recommends it and I am amazed at the difference everyone told me I would see. As soon as I adjusted the idle mixture and speed it cranked up and I would swear I have a different car.

You guys know that I wanted the 1411 to work and it does. I eliminated the lean stumble, I have a mixture that feels great and the numbers look good on the A/F. Having said that, let me try to explain the difference in raw facts.

1) With the 800, releasing the clutch in 1st gear is like any other car. You just release the clutch, period. No feathering and slipping the clutch. It just works, no matter the load no matter the incline.
2) With the 800, the mixture defaulted to perfect. Cruise is pretty solid around 14.2 and when you punch it you get an INSTANT drop down to roughly 11. As RPMs incrase the A/F increases to roughly 15.0 and then the vacuum kicks in and it drops back down into power mode.

For the most part, I think it has to do with the accelerator pump. When there is a load low in gears and at a start, the A/F is down in the 11.5-12.5 range. There are absolutely no lean spikes anywhere in the RPM range. When I replaced the pump nozzle to a 43, it eliminated the stumble but I still noticed quick lean spikes shifting gears or from a start. The nozzle have a good healthy squirt of fuel but as RPM's increased, the transition would still have a quick little spike that you couldn't really feel but it showed up in the gauge.

Nothing like that with the 800. It is smooth, responsive and a night-and-day difference.

Amazing is the only word that comes to mind.

I am a lot smarter now than I would have been if I had bought the 800 first so I have no regrets but I will say that the 800 is cheaper than a 750 with a tuning kit and nozzle kit.

I will respond back with any comments, questions that may arise but I will say that I HAVE SEEN THE LIGHT.

So what do the rest of us do with a BRAND NEW 1407?