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Re: Going racing again.. slicks vs drag radials
[Re: 1967dartgt]
#1599129
03/28/14 12:56 AM
03/28/14 12:56 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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If you've already got a set of slicks, I'd use them and see how they do. B-Body's transfer weight pretty effectively when properly set up, and generally hook pretty good on a radial. My guess is you'd be faster on a radial, and ultimately that would be your best setup, as long as you have a decently prepped track.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: Going racing again.. slicks vs drag radials
[Re: StealthWedge67]
#1599130
03/28/14 05:26 AM
03/28/14 05:26 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
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slightly off track with the original post question, but I saw a few questions which I thought I would help clarify. Aftermarket axles are required by NHRA if you are running a spool or run faster than 10.99. Quote:
2:11 REAR END
Welded spider gear rear ends prohibited in all classes. Four-wheel drive permitted per class requirements. Aftermarket axles and axle-retention device mandatory on Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny Car, Comp, Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, and 10.99 or quicker E.T. cars; also mandatory on any car (regardless of class or E.T.) with a spool.
Long wheel studs are not a requirement for any class, but the wheel stud MUST extend past the face of the wheel (and washer if used) by at least the diameter of the stud. (1/2" stud by 1/2", 5/8" stud by 5/8", and in the case of some GM 7/16" studs by 7/16").
Quote:
5:2 WHEELS
Hubcaps must be removed for inspectors, who will check for loose lugs, cracked wheels, worn or oversize lug holes, and condition of spindles, axle nuts, cotter pins, etc. Snap-on hubcaps are prohibited on any class car. The use of “spinner” style wheels or any wheel design that incorporates movable pieces while vehicle is in motion or stationary are prohibited. Each car in competition must be equipped with automotive-type wheels with a minimum 12 inches of diameter unless Class Requirements stipulate otherwise. Motorcycle wheels or lightweight automotive wire wheels must be equipped with .100-inch minimum diameter steel spokes, properly cross-laced to provide maximum strength. All spoke holes in rim and hub must be laced. Omissions to lighten wheels prohibited. The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16-inch.) Wheel spacer permitted. Spacer to be either hub-centric or lugcentric and must fit with minimal clearance to retain concentricity. The wheel spacer must not reduce the minimum permitted thread engagement below the limits established by fastener diameter. (See example as stated above.) No stacking of wheel spacers allowed.Maximum rim width on any car: 16 inches. No rear wheel discs or covers permitted in any category. Top Fuel and Funny Car rear wheels must meet SFI Spec 15.4. Pro Stock, Top Alcohol Dragster, Top Alcohol Funny Car, and Pro Modified (Comp) must meet a minimum of SFI Spec 15.1
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Re: Going racing again.. slicks vs drag radials
[Re: gdonovan]
#1599133
03/28/14 09:16 AM
03/28/14 09:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,416
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,416
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Quote:
Quote:
My guess is you'd be faster on a radial, and ultimately that would be your best setup, as long as you have a decently prepped track.
Yes, I'm aware that on a radial I'd have a fast mph but would rather have the ET.
I raced the Duster at LV 2 years ago and it would spin the slicks out the hole, track prep is a concern. They were running a bunch of street cars too so I can't blame the track too much.
The radial WILL ET and most likely MPH better. Radials don't grow nearly as much as a slick, so the MPH may or may not be better, but it'll definitely ET better on the radial when it hooks.
Like I said before, if the track isn't typically prepped very well when you go, I'd suggest a slick.
Dragula...any decently fast car on radials is wrinkling the sidewall just like a slick...and wears them out accordingly, just like 67dartGT said. No different than a slick.
The day that pic I posted earlier was taken, I made 7 passes to win my first bracket race...went 1.32-1.34 sixty foot every pass running 9.60s.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: Going racing again.. slicks vs drag radials
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#1599134
03/28/14 11:51 AM
03/28/14 11:51 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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I would run a slick in your case. It takes a lot to get radials to work right and you don't race near enough to do that. A slick would work better for you, but a radial would be a faster tire both et and mph.
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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