Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: 69 plymouth rnr]
#1594152
03/20/14 09:09 AM
03/20/14 09:09 AM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518 Georgia
Steve Bryant
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
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It took me a few days to get all the parts in but I have completed the LED replacement (just bulbs) for everything except the headlights and road lights on my 1970 Barracuda. I am very happy with the results in that the lights are brighter, faster and cooler. Moreover, I have calculated that I have reduced amp load on the front wiring harness and alternator by roughly 4.8 amps. Here are the parts I used:
Tag Light: $12.99 2x BA15S S8 LED Bulb Lamp 60 Lumen Warm White 12V AC DC for Boat, RV, Car Auto Dash Reverse Indicator: $6.75 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White Dash Lights: $20.25 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White Brake Light/Turn Signals: $1.95 AGT 1157 Pair LED SMD 18 LED Bulbs Brake/Stop Red 2057 7528 2357 3497 Reverse Lights: $16.99 JDM Astar 800 Lumens Super Bright 2835 SMD Samsung Chipsets 1156 1141 1073 3496 7506 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White Front Turn Signals: $5.78 TMZ 1 pair 1157 19x YELLOW/AMBER LED FRONT SIDE MARKER SIGNAL BULBS Fg1 Front and Rear Side Markers: $3.99 Genssi 5 SMD BA9 BA9S Bayonet single contact LED Bulb White (Pack of 4) Dome Light $4.50 GRV Ba15d 1076 1142 High Bright Car LED Bulb 13-5050SMD DC 12V Warm White
If you google search the descriptions you can easily find them on Ebay or Amazon. If my math is right, I spent about $73 in total and I think that is a small price to pay for better lights, not having to worry about replacements and lower amp load on the car.
Two things I figured out. In some circuits, you have to replace both lights or the LED won't light. This was true on the Cuda brake lights and front running lights. You also need a no-load Flasher which was like $10 on Amazon. As was pointed out, these bulbs can only accept electricity in one direction so if you install a bulb and it won't light, reverse it and you should be fine. Lastly, I took a dremil tool with a wire brush and cleaned every terminal as I was working on it then used dielectric grease on the fittings to ensure a solid connection. The tag bulb has not actually came in yet but I have every expectation that it will work nicely.
The swap over has no outward appearance of modern lighting except the trained eye will see a true blinking response with the light going out and not just fading between pulses. The reverse lights I chose are freakishly bright so I may eventually replace them with dimmer/warmer bulbs. If you want to see photos of a specific bulb in action, let me know and I will post some pics.
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: OLD318]
#1594155
03/20/14 10:07 AM
03/20/14 10:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,923 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,923
Athens, Greece
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I have modified my 69 Charger over the years. I have true HID headlights up front 35w beams on the Hi/Lo and the 55w H4's in the Hi's. I have migrated all my dash over to LEDs except for my autometer gauges because the retrofit will cost me 10 bucks a bulbs and I am none too fond of that. My side markers are reflective so those don't need anything, the front valance turn signals have 38LED Amber in there and they work great. Reverse Lamps are 1156 Super White LED and they work great too. Same with the License plate light. I started making the conversion myself for the tail lights..instead of the whole housing, I put two 36LED PCB arrays in each of the pods and hooked them up to the existing wiring harness. I did the drivers side but the PCBs left a dark area around the array. I didn't care for it too much. I removed them and sent it back to the incandescent's. I love how reactive they are, the split second difference and the intensity they emit. I made a video on youtube. I will make a PCB bpard when I have more time and make it sequential but for now, I have too much other stuff to do. You don't want to put LED bulbs in the rear like 1157s because alot of the light emission is lost in the housing. They also say to put the same color bulb as is the lens. I found the red LEDs to be much dimmer. I didnt have a LUX meter at the time but now I do have one. I'll tackle it again one day...I might break down and just buy that $300 set that a guy already makes and sells. It's all on how much your time is worth I guess. I just dont want a full grid of LEDs in the back. I want separators, make it look somewhat stock yet have an impact. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Rz7NTJtL2o
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: Pyper70]
#1594157
03/20/14 10:09 AM
03/20/14 10:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,923 Athens, Greece
Pyper70
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,923
Athens, Greece
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Oh yeah...you also have to use an electronic flasher when migrating to LEDs...dont forget your hazards flasher as well. I couldn't figure out what was going on with mine and I found that I actually had to reverse the wires in my |_ pigtail for it to work correctly
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1594159
03/20/14 11:37 AM
03/20/14 11:37 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
OLD318
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
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Steve, thanks again for the info on the flasher.... I tend to agree that the sidemarker/turnsignal/taillights don't really need LED bulbs... But the interior dash lights/dome light/glovebox and maplight are BIG noticeable improvements. Unfortunately I can't find an LED that fits a 70 B Body map light or glove box light. Also I'd love to find one for the AM radio but I don't think there is any way to service/replace that one... if anyone has any info on those 3 areas glovebox,maplight, radio please chime in...
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: OLD318]
#1594160
03/20/14 12:12 PM
03/20/14 12:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
Steve, thanks again for the info on the flasher....
I tend to agree that the sidemarker/turnsignal/taillights don't really need LED bulbs... But the interior dash lights/dome light/glovebox and maplight are BIG noticeable improvements.
Unfortunately I can't find an LED that fits a 70 B Body map light or glove box light. Also I'd love to find one for the AM radio but I don't think there is any way to service/replace that one...
if anyone has any info on those 3 areas glovebox,maplight, radio please chime in...
I'd think the map and box light should be findable, the radio light would require some disassembly. If the dash isn't bright enough, remve it and clean it. I have a new cluster (re-manned) and it's plenty bright. Now if I can just get the adjuster to work right I'd be happy. They seem to be either bright or dim w/ no middle.
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1594161
03/20/14 12:25 PM
03/20/14 12:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220 toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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I remember once spending a few hundred dollars on LED's for my charger...proceeded to install everything, and not denying the benefits of LED's (lower heat/current draw/faster on/off time), they just didn't look right to me. Kinda like big 20" wheels on a mopar, it's just wrong.... After battling the contact issue in the sockets, I proceeded to remove all the LED's and replace it with a good ol' regular $0.40 bulb...and life returned to normal!! Maybe I'm old, but I like the look of the warm, slow to come on, heat producing, current hog bulb!!! If it ain't broke...don't fix it!!!
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: Steve Bryant]
#1594163
03/20/14 02:19 PM
03/20/14 02:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck
Not enough dumb comments...yet
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Not enough dumb comments...yet
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 24,562
Brookeville, Md
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Quote:
Mr, Yuck I think I am somewhere in between. I too want the lights to look slightly yellowed and "normal". I picked out bulbs that did not look like LED light so the casual observer can see no difference in color or brightness. However, I wanted to draw less amperage and I wanted faster brake light response and the newer LED's give me all of that for less than $80. There are some really terrible LED bulbs out there that look odd, different, too white, too blue, etc and I avoided those like the plague! My main concern is the amp draw and overall load on the wiring harnesses and alternator. I rarely see E-Body harnesses that are not scorched and burned and so I have done some hidden/camouflaged wiring tweaks to help reduce future risks. LED replacement is a small part of that strategy and for me I wanted it to be low-key and not obvious.
In the end I guess it is just preference and what makes you sleep better. I am probably too paranoid for my own good!
oh I know the benefits, not dening them, they just hurt my eyes...lol I was following a new Audi SUV (I think it was an Audi) and dude hit the brakes and nearly blinded me.
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Re: L.E.D. LIGHTS IN OLD CARS
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1594164
03/20/14 06:37 PM
03/20/14 06:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,625 Millinocket, Maine
JonC
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,625
Millinocket, Maine
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Quote:
They are too bright on any car. They hurt my eyes. No need for a car to have a brake light strong enough to be seen 2 miles away, same for head lights. If you want your tail lights to be broghter take off the lenses clean then and paint the backing silver, this will make them brighter, but not too bright.
I strongly agree, especially DRLs on the newer cars and trucks. I think they are dangerous as they are completely mesmerizing. I catch myself staring at them instead of paying attention to the road. Most LED DRLs are turned off when the directional signal is on so you can see it because they are too bright in the daytime.
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