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What button...front tire pressure....front end limited?...there are quite a few other easy and almost free things you can do.

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Take the fronts to 45 if they will handle it.

Ditch that button for one from Grainger...I'll get you a part #

Tighten up the travel as much as you can and still get weight transfer..

What size are the front tires?...run as small a tire as you can.

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IMO the best and quickest brake is the Griner. I was able to go 430's in a heavy leaf spring car with it, shallow staging like I did bracket racing( and I am an old grandpa with probably slow reaction)
The Transact is actually a Griner knockoff, believe at one time Joe worked for Griner.
I ran the Griner for years, never an issue, no creep, and it was consistant.

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I know Joe used to work with Griner and that it is supposed to be just like the Griner, which is why I bought it from him- supposed to be just like it, but for a better price.

Of course like everyone said, getting a hold of Joe at Tranzact is mission impossible whether its through phone or email, so I can't even ask him this question myself.

As for the brake itself, I have been very happy with it. Now creep, and very consistent on the .500 tree

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The fastest brake you can get is the one being operated by a twenty something driver.

If they'd had trans brakes 40 something years ago I bet I would been GOOD.

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http://www.grainger.com/product/OMRON-Snap-Switch-6X288?searchQuery=6x288

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This looks like it would have to be mounted outside of the shifter handle itself...are there some that will work in the handle?

Also, what about the switch allows for faster times at the tree? a quicker rate of release? is there a spec for that somewhere.

Thanks for the link!

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Can't get Joe? Oh come on 317-846-4933. I call him at least once a month just to catch up. I think everybody does. Maybe that is why he hasn't answered you.

The TRANZACT is not the same as Griner. Joe left Griner years ago. He has significantly changed his brake design several times sense then.

I ran the regular brake and cut awesome lights. I later ran a Pro Brake from TCI that Joe makes for them. No one beat me on the tree with that brake. I actually had to slow myself down to not red light.

Get a delay box with a reaction timer program in it. If you cannot go .180 you either have a button problem or you are simply slow.

#1 Your front tire pressure is too low

#2 You may be too low on rear tire pressure

#3 You are pushing your button too hard.

#4 You have a limited amount of springs in your high gear clutch pack install all 15 and get the better springs.

#5 You may be running stupid line pressure and have a pressure tank instead of a transmission. The same adjustment on a 904 will be 25-35 lbs more in a 904 than a 727. Check your line pressure. 135 is plenty

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I spoke with Joe just after I had installed my valve body as I had a band issue...he answered my emails promptly, told him I was happy with it I emailed him about 3 weeks later mentioned I wanted to purchase a couple of the trans brake case connectors for spare, as mine wasn't installed the greatest either...Never did answer my email, nor my calls throughout the summer ONCE...I did get some weird chain joke email from him about a month or two ago though.

I am not knocking Joe, or his product....but others have said it, and I have seen it for myself that he is near impossible to get a hold of. I got tired of calling after 3 months to be honest.

I have not been as slow as .180 unless I have been sleeping at the tree- my lights on a .400 tree are almost exactly .100 slower then my lights on the .500. Like I said, maybe its me, maybe its the brake? I cannot run a delay box either in the races I run, nor do I want to to be quite honest.

#1- not sure if my tire pressures are low..never thought to go higher really.
#2- I run radials in the rear at 18psi every pass.I have been told that is sufficient and the car seems to work well at that number
#3- pushing the button too hard? Maybe, I tend to be a little aggressive lol..how does that effect release though?
#4- I am running a 904 with the multi spring kit, I believe they don't have that spring issue
#5- I run the dyno tested 150lbs that Joe set it to when I bought it. I did a pressure test, and it was spot on. Joe has told me, as well as others, that the 904's sweet spot is in that pressure- lower, I will burn up clutches, and higher I am wasting power

I do appreciate the input! Reason I started this thread was because I was hoping to hear I could reuse my current brake...so far it is pointing to that, which I am happy about

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The fastest brake you can get is the one being operated by a twenty something driver.

If they'd had trans brakes 40 something years ago I bet I would been GOOD.

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Can't get Joe? Oh come on 317-846-4933. I call him at least once a month just to catch up. I think everybody does. Maybe that is why he hasn't answered you.

The TRANZACT is not the same as Griner. Joe left Griner years ago. He has significantly changed his brake design several times sense then.

I ran the regular brake and cut awesome lights. I later ran a Pro Brake from TCI that Joe makes for them. No one beat me on the tree with that brake. I actually had to slow myself down to not red light.

Get a delay box with a reaction timer program in it. If you cannot go .180 you either have a button problem or you are simply slow.

#1 Your front tire pressure is too low

#2 You may be too low on rear tire pressure

#3 You are pushing your button too hard.

#4 You have a limited amount of springs in your high gear clutch pack install all 15 and get the better springs.

#5 You may be running stupid line pressure and have a pressure tank instead of a transmission. The same adjustment on a 904 will be 25-35 lbs more in a 904 than a 727. Check your line pressure. 135 is plenty

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I spoke with Joe just after I had installed my valve body as I had a band issue...he answered my emails promptly, told him I was happy with it I emailed him about 3 weeks later mentioned I wanted to purchase a couple of the trans brake case connectors for spare, as mine wasn't installed the greatest either...Never did answer my email, nor my calls throughout the summer ONCE...I did get some weird chain joke email from him about a month or two ago though.

I am not knocking Joe, or his product....but others have said it, and I have seen it for myself that he is near impossible to get a hold of. I got tired of calling after 3 months to be honest.

I have not been as slow as .180 unless I have been sleeping at the tree- my lights on a .400 tree are almost exactly .100 slower then my lights on the .500. Like I said, maybe its me, maybe its the brake? I cannot run a delay box either in the races I run, nor do I want to to be quite honest.

#1- not sure if my tire pressures are low..never thought to go higher really.
#2- I run radials in the rear at 18psi every pass.I have been told that is sufficient and the car seems to work well at that number
#3- pushing the button too hard? Maybe, I tend to be a little aggressive lol..how does that effect release though?
#4- I am running a 904 with the multi spring kit, I believe they don't have that spring issue
#5- I run the dyno tested 150lbs that Joe set it to when I bought it. I did a pressure test, and it was spot on. Joe has told me, as well as others, that the 904's sweet spot is in that pressure- lower, I will burn up clutches, and higher I am wasting power

I do appreciate the input! Reason I started this thread was because I was hoping to hear I could reuse my current brake...so far it is pointing to that, which I am happy about

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Pressing down hard on the button will delay your release...I do this if I think I bumped in deep. I try to act like I am getting electrocuted...

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If you look at the picture of the switch you just want the very top of the button exposed. You will see it is a two stage travel...one is a very small movement...the second is the whole length of the shaft. You want to shim it to the first stage. Mine is though a hole in the steering wheel...get creative..

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