whats wrong with these?
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K700528

moogs that use a hard plastic/nylon for the bushing. no give and the right length. the linked pic is app correct for 73 dart according to moog. This exact PN or a slightly longer link works great on for the RSB on a slightly lowered 2gn neon ;-)

UHCOOG1 -- Thank YOU for bringing forth this subject and the available products. The article on weight balancing effect of the sway bar end links is very good... similar to what I've tried to explain. The point that I've tried to bring forth is, first, balance the 4-corners side-to-side, best as possible, without the sway bar end links attached... then... attach the end links so to avoid any uneven pre-load per side that would non-favorably effect the corner weights of the car. Keep in mind, also that the front and rear weights will basically be pre-set as % front/rear, but the side-to-side weights can be adjusted to have each other as close as possible.

Another factor with weight balancing, is with the re-positioning of the battery (in the trunk)... I had found notable corner weight differences by progressively changing the location.. at one time, I had the battery centrally located in the center above the differential (under the rear speaker tray).. looked good and out of the way.. but we changed it with better/eqaulized corner weight distribution by placing it, ultimately, in the far passenger rear corner of the trunk... surprising what a difference in corner weight % it made!

I'm going to look up and see what adjustable end links would fit my stock-type bars (custom bars/both solid... 1.25" front, 1.0" rear... had these made for me back in the early '80s).

PS: Setting body/ride height by fender measuring and/or suspension measuring points should not over-ride corner weight balancing for best handling results. The differences in fender heights will be minimal side-to-side, and nearly un-noticable to the eye, but the best weight balance will result in the better handling potential to the driver of the car. In fact, a steering re-alignment may also be required after the corner balancing is set.

Another PS: IF the car is going to be making predominantly left or right hand turns, such as for an oval track, then you could always reconsider the side-to-side balance and pre-load of the sway bars to have a betterv result for suich oval track turning. What I've been discussing all above is the neutral balance for multiple left/right hand manuevers, say, for a pylon autocross and road course with twisty turns.

Trjnmn -- the Moogs are durable parts and Moog carries a high-quality aftermarket reputation for the great majority of their parts. The only issue here, is that they are stock-type (actually better than stock) replacement parts... BUT.. they don't offer the "adjustability" in their length for equalizing the pre-load if so desired. With the factory type design, using washer spacers to equalize the end link attachments will get better finite results. Again, this is just "fine-tuning" the setup. How much will someone notice?... When fractions of seconds add up, that will be the difference.

yup reading fail on my part... i was thinking this was just effort to be rid of the soft rubber/urethane ends. yes proper length and all that. As for tunning to that nth degree. I know my problem is still the nut behind the wheel. ;-) but im working on it.

I like the rounded ends on the Moog/OEM neon part to allow for worry free articulation. From the pic (if that is at ride height) it looks as though the f150 ends could be a touch too long for optimum.

Moog version is greaseable.

Trgnmn -- There is a common test to see if the "nut-behind-the-wheel" is functioning at high levels... very simply, allow another different "nut-behind-the-wheel" to go into action in the driver's seat with your vehicle, preferably at a timed autocross or road course event, and compare the times against each other. This common test may have to be repeated a few times to conclude before making further adjustments.

That has almost got to hang below the scrub line.

Not a good thing.

I bought one of the moogs and shortened it to 4". They will work for me now.

Yeah pull off the boots. I used some 5/8" id 1" od tube with a hole drilled for a plug weld and also welded both ends. It cooked the grease out but thats what zerks are for. They move exactly as they did before after I welded it up then tossed it into a snow drift.

Looks great!

Dang, another project that I need to do!