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You realize you are going against Mopar convention, the oil filter has to hang over something so that it can not be removed without making a mess that is impossible to clean up.

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Heck mine is even easier to get to than that one.

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Heck mine is even easier to get to than that one.

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You damn AMC guys are spoiled rotten with your dizzy and oil filters all up front and crap....

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But I located my filter location where I wanted it when I installed the oil cooler and all that.

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That looks expensive!:)

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Would a borgeson steering box work so you do not have to dent the headers?
If you are retaining the PS, are you going to reduce the output pressure of the mopar hemi pump, by a modified pump or??

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I see now. Will it take the pressure output of the hemi pump? Is there a trick to reduce its output?

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I see now. Will it take the pressure output of the hemi pump? Is there a trick to reduce its output?

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And here is reality, see attachment above.

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Just throwing this question out there?
Is there a definite advantage of a lets say 500 hp Gen III EFI Hemi vs. an old school 500 hp EFI small block?

Don't get me wrong, I was planning to get the Mopar All Aluminum Gen III crate engine and drop that in my car
but when I found out about the Ritter Aluminum small block I figured it would be an easier and less expensive route to go to.

My reasoning is that I already have the Edelbrock heads, headers, transmission placement, blah blah blah, etc..
Besides buying a forged crank, rods and pistons, I basically just have to swap out my current cast iron block with an aluminum one and add a FAST EFI kit that I already have.

I figure that it would still be less than the $14k for the 515hp P5156159 crate engine
http://www.jegs.com/p/Mopar-Performance/Mopar-Gen-III-426-Hemi-Crate-Engine/1710917/10002/-1

Am I missing something here? I know basically nothing about Gen III engines
thanks

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And here is reality, see attachment above.

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But the first line of this thread reads, "Finally got things going in the right direction by making my own mounts and denting $800 headers..."

Look, I like this build, (a lot) but you positioned the engine. I'm guessing that the TTI's were designed to work with Schumacher mounts. just sayin... and wondering!

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I dont know what these were designed to work with but me and a few other guys were told they work on Gen III powered A-bodies with a Borgeson steering box. TTI told me to just move engine forward for clearance, AFTER I told them I was making my own mounts. I used to run a BB and my trans mount was already set to stock fore and aft wise. I would've needed to move the engine forward 1/2" to clear the #1 primary. That aint happening because it would require notching K member, steering linkage problems and shifter hole problems. So I decided to egg out the steering box holes and move it outboard about 1/8" and still put in the dent in the tube shown above. Doing this also helped steering shaft clearance at the same time. All TTI has to do is change the #1 tube placement about 3/8" but for some reason they seem very reluctant to. Here is the pic that has mislead me and a few others

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Just throwing this question out there?
Is there a definite advantage of a lets say 500 hp Gen III EFI Hemi vs. an old school 500 hp EFI small block?

Don't get me wrong, I was planning to get the Mopar All Aluminum Gen III crate engine and drop that in my car
but when I found out about the Ritter Aluminum small block I figured it would be an easier and less expensive route to go to.

My reasoning is that I already have the Edelbrock heads, headers, transmission placement, blah blah blah, etc..
Besides buying a forged crank, rods and pistons, I basically just have to swap out my current cast iron block with an aluminum one and add a FAST EFI kit that I already have.

I figure that it would still be less than the $14k for the 515hp P5156159 crate engine
http://www.jegs.com/p/Mopar-Performance/Mopar-Gen-III-426-Hemi-Crate-Engine/1710917/10002/-1

Am I missing something here? I know basically nothing about Gen III engines
thanks

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I'm running the 6.4 because it's cheap. 500+ hp for $6,000 with OEM reliability. Can't beat that and you can't get that with a LA motor. If you want more power, it will take it no problem. Drop in some forged slugs (Mahle direct drop in) and slap a blower on the thing and it's making 650 all day.

The harnesses are getting easier. Trans stuff bolts right up. Flywheel is cheap. For some reason the headers just suck.

My 2" did end up fitting with custom mounts and the engine being raised 1/2". Not what I wanted, but that's what I got with off the shelf headers. Using a manual box with an electric steering column, so extra room with the box.

There is some minor massaging required, but nothing major.