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ive pulled the intake and dont see any indication of oil being sucked in,ports are wet from fuel but not oily.
if anyone has a completly stock street hemi they dont mind throwing a vac gauge on i am curious what the reading should be.
i wasnt impressed with 140 psi comp reading until i checked the service manual and it says 110 psi is the acceptable minimum.cam lobes appear fine at a glance. i think i will pull the timing cover next.

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and over until they don't take any more movement with a good inch lb. torque wrench, same thing after running the motor to warm it up, retighten those bolts many times until they stop tightening

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and over until they don't take any more movement with a good inch lb. torque wrench, same thing after running the motor to warm it up, retighten those bolts many times until they stop tightening

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I agree, just be sure to use an INCH LB wrench, I believe the spec is only 12 inch lbs? It isn't much that's for sure! You don't want to break off a chunk of cylinder head by over torqueing the intake bolts.

I also agree on the low vacuum failing to pull down the metering rods, no vacuum will = pig rich with those carbs.

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The FSM calls for 72 inch lbs(6 ft. lbs) on the center four intake bolts on both sides and 48 inch lbs(4 ft. lbs.) on the rest of the outer bolts and studs

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Sounds like you have carter carbs yes? If so the low vac. is not keeping the needles in the seats, thus very rich. I would check how big that cam is and where it's degree in at, sounds like a 110• or lower centerline.

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so i spent the afternoon measuring lobe lift and duration,and checked degreeing of the cam and have determined I have a comp 292 in here,it appears to be out 2 degrees as well (timing events are 2 deg late) ,,specs:

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=754&sb=0

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When you say late cam timing are you referring to opening and closing or te lobe seperation angle? If the cam has the intake lobe installed at max lift at 110 degrees after top dead center move it so it is at 104 to 106 before top dead center In other words if the cam is opening the intake lifters two degree later(closer to top dead center) than on the cam card move it forward (away from top dead center) to open sooner 6 to 8 degrees to help it have more bottome end I've never had any type of Mopar V8 motor like having the cam timing late, on the dyno or at the track Having the cam retarded will kill the bottom end dramatically Try moving it before replacing it That grind is not that big, trust me on that Hemiroid motor need an love more air to make more power

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Cab,
yes by late timing I mean the intake is opening at 35-36 btdc when it should be 38 btdc.
I have checked the plug on the bottom of the intake.Timing was a little erratic with the oem dual point but i replaced it and timing is good now.
How much of a vaccum loss would I see if the brake booster was bad?
what do you guys recommend to seal the head stud threads?

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