Hi,

If you have not bought the oil pan yet you might consider the Milodon road race pan. Large capacity and does not stick below the k-frame. Costs more but I bet if I had bought it originally I would not have gone through 2 deep oil pans (1 each of Milodon and Moroso) which together have cost as much as the road race pan that is now on the engine. Clears headers just fine as you can see in the attached photo. Of course, our road situation here is a bit different than most. That engine is still 452 and sitting in the garage downstairs just waiting for time to put it in (maybe this weekend). Last Mopar engine Dan was able to complete.

Our 452 with Performer RPM intake and Vacuum secondary old style HP950 carb and unported Edelbrock RPM's has gone 11.56 in a 70 RR with a 4-speed (23 spline no less) Tim Hyatt Soft-lock clutch and 4.3 S-60. That was with the handicap of me driving, too. Suspension is stock 383 except for 1" torsion bars in front and clamping rear springs. What you are building will get you well into the 11's I believe.

Now have to build that composite bonnet as don't want to cut the steel one.

Side view of road race pan for depth reference.

I have everything up at the machine shop waiting its turn in line. Here is the cam Muscle Motors recommended for my build: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=708&sb=2

Once he starts machine work I'll take out my motor and bring him the heads. Then figure out the rocker set up I will end up with.
I also scored a used set of TTI's and installed them already. They cut down my ET slightly and also brought up my mph.
Going from a car that runs mid 14's to this stroker set up is going to be interesting.

Any suggestions for a good rocker set up? I'm looking for low maintenance/non-adjustable rockers.
Someone mentioned quickfuel for a carb. Holley has a sale on all their carbs and I'm used to using them already. But I guess quickfuel are holley based?

Holley owns Quick Fuel Technologies and BG Fuel Systems (Demon). Except for the Street Demon, all of the four-barrel carbs being sold by the three companies are based on the same Holley design. If you can work on a Holley you can work on the other two.

As far as rockers go, stockers are light and cheap. There have been many many bigblocks built with the .509 lift cam and stock rockers. Your suggested cam is in that ballpark for lift and that's where I'd go. Most cheap aluminum rockers are cheap and don't work well or for long. You may want to find AndyF's article on bigblock rockers, seems like some of them don't fit too well. Many have had good luck with Harland Sharps, I believe Hughes sells the plain bearing set. Otherwise I'd stick to known brands.

R.

I just went up to the machine shop and my block is cracked in two spots. I attached a picture of where they said it was cracked (although the pic is just one I found on the internet of a RB 440). It definitely in a weird spot.

So now I need to find a new 400 block that can be bored to .040 over.

Small update, new 400 block was given to the machine shop to check out. Have not heard back yet from them.
I ordered my strange dana 60 from dr. diff and my dad picked it up while I was stuck at the hospital. Went with 3.54's since it will have enough power that I don't need 3.73's really.

Now I'm trying to figure out what skid plate I need to buy for the oil pan I bought( http://www.manciniracing.com/mabheap.html ). I imagine I should get the 1966-1969 hemi one even though that pan is technically for 70-71 ebodys: http://www.manciniracing.com/kskpl.html

I am about to order the Carter Mechanical Strip Super fuel pump, ARP bolt kit, and hotchkis subframe connectors from Summit Racing. After that I just will need my heads done. Had a question on those too though : https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...e=4#Post8419233
I know when I send them off to get CNC (probably next winter) they will have to go to 10* locks/retainers. Someone on that thread said I should be fine with what I have and a flat tappet cam....

Again my health has put me behind but I'm still chugging away at this. Have been in the hospital 3-4 weeks since the end of December . But new treatment option might turn things around.

Devin, best wishes on the health deal. Not fun.
On the rockers, it would be well worth checking into the use of a 1.6 rocker for a couple of reasons. First, stock rockers don't deliver a full 1.5 lift, and although a lot of guys have used them successfully, since you have to buy rockers, you might as well step up to some good ones, adjust them once, and be done. Then you won't have to worry about having one fail. The extra lift of a 1.6 rocker will help in the Hp department, and the rpm range for your build will be very low, so not much worry about problems there.

Well I have the motor back and painted up. Just need to take the old one out and put the new one in. Got the Brad Penn oil and my wix oil filter for break in. Specs on everything and some random stuff:

470" Stroker kit from muscle motors
CNC ported stealth heads from MCH (numbers below)
Cam: xe274h-10 Xtreme Energy XE274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit
Lift: .488''/.491''
Duration: 274°/286°
Stock stamped rockers (will upgrade in the future, but will work fine with the cam I have)
Edelbrock Performer RPM
750 holley carb (figured an intake and carb will be easier to replace than taking the heads off again so I spent the money on that. May go EFI)
Carter Strip Super mechanical fuel pump
ProSport SFI Harmonic Balancer
Cometic head gasket .051 thickness
Can't recall what the compression ratio should be
Hemi 4 speed
Centerforce clutch
TTI 3 inch headers
Strange 60 w/ 3.54 gears
295-50-15's

I know the rockers and intake/carb set up are holding me back now. What should I put in the 750 for now as far as jets and what not? I have a full jet kit, just don't know what a good estimate would be to throw in. What kind of spark plug does everyone like? As money allows, I will upgrade those things.

My new k frame, pulleys, fan just got done getting powdercoated so I'll pick them up tomorrow. Ordered a new steering gear box that should be here in a couple weeks from Firm Feel. Resealed the hemi 4 speed I bought off of here and it looked good inside. Still need to check if I need to mess with the bellhousing alignment, but have a Browell tool for that so it should be easy. Will still need to put in the strange 60 and get a driveshaft made through Dr. Diff once I get the measurements (unless someone knows what a 68 b body with a hemi 4 speed and strange 60 dana length will need to be).

The flow numbers on those heads are encouraging They outflowed the CNC ported Eddy RPM Jeff at MCH did for me back when I have a customer who bought a set of those heads two years ago, I'm building him 511 C.I. pump gas stroker motor now and it will need a decent set of heads like that(his aren't ported, yet) to make the power he wants Thanks for posting your update

After a couple surgeries and a lucky craigslist AAR cuda score to put me behind schedule, I'm close to getting it going finally.
I have brad penn break in oil. I popped the intake back off to put the comp cams additive on the cam since its been sitting for a while. I should use the additive on the cam still even though people say the brad penn is good stuff to use, correct? Dumb question, but I have a good chunk of change in this build and obviously want to get it right the first time.

Currently rebuilding some super stock leaf springs my uncle gave me and then I can switch out the rear end. Then get measurements for a new driveshaft. Once I get the driveshaft, I'll Fill up my rear, transmission and motor oil and fire it up. I also just purchased the FItech fuel injection setup with their fuel command center. I'll break it in with my carb because it was dialed in just fine and don't want to run into any issues worrying about a new fuel system setup and breaking in the motor. I also bought a new rev-n-nator and firecore distributor that will go on it. And got a new flywheel from Brewers just for good measure. Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project.

Good luck man...........

If you haven't done it already, you could use Hughes' drop method to see if the lifters are going to rotate as they should. He'd got it covered on the Hughes engines website.

I mean you are going to have the intake manifold off, right?

R.

SS leaf springs, strange Dana 60 and driveshaft is in. Need to fill up transmission and rearend fluids today and then prime the motor and I'm ready to fire up. Breaking it in with my carb and going to drive around for a while with it.
Once I figure out my fuel return line set up and fuel sump placement in the engine bay, I'll throw the FiTech EFI on it. I'm hoping the firecore distributor and coil; rev-n-nator I just bought works with the EFI or I just wasted more money.

It's almost a year to the day since I stopped driving my bee to take the heads off and have them cnc'd at MCH. So I'm more than ready to get back in the driver seat. More importantly my health has improved a lot the past few months and I'm gaining my weight back. I was 145 December of 2014 and down to 108 by November of 15 and I'm up to 132 currently. (And I'm 6'4"). But anyway I hope to have a video up soon with news of a good break in **knock on wood** then some quarter mile number later this summer. I appreciate all the help you guys gave me through my first complete engine build.

Glad to hear you went EFI. A friend did on a 383 and loves it. Good news on the health, wish you a full recovery and prayers for the same

I went with my old ECU and distributor since just knew they had to work... No spark. Fix a small gas leak. Try again, nothing. But on my firecore distributor and rev-n-nator ECU and coil. Still nothing. Chase wires and look at wiring diagrams for an hour. Then read rev-n-nator paperwork. Unscrew and turn ECU upside down to a better ground point and spark appears. Crank it and it starts right up, good oil pressure, got a little warm but what you would expect after sitting revved up for half an hour. No damage to the TTI headers (although they were already on my car for a few thousand miles) so everything must be close. Now I gotta switch out oil filters and break in for 500 miles. Still gotta put the latch support, bumpers, grill and hood on. Then get brakes straightened out in the rear and I'm good.
I'll try to get the car on a dyno and post numbers to complete this post and others have ideas on what this set up brings. 1/4 mile numbers of course too.
Thanks again for all the help.

If the machine shop honed the block correclty and got all the clearances correct and you have the flat tappet cam broken in now there is no reason to "break in" the motor for 500 miles Take it out and get after it right away to help seat the rings properly

I listened to your wise advise after getting my linkage straightened out. While working on it the UPS guy dropped off something and I set it down in front of my car. Well that box took a mile long trip with me and the car. I kept hearing a noise that was scaring me, but I figured out that it was just that box haha. Later gave my gf's oldest son a ride that I promised him after he "helped" install the motor a few months ago. He told her I was the fastest driver in the world lol (I maybe got up to 35 mph).
Once the sun went down I ran around a bit more, but need to put my hood back on still. My old motor sounded good with my cutouts opened, but this motor is on a whole nother level.
While swapping it rearends I needed to change brake lines. Well the rear brake fluid in the master cylinder was nasty! So I cleaned it out and gravity bled them. Now the brakes work better than before. Next on the list to buy is disc brakes, rockers and maybe cam someday. But I sign into Moparts today and a member listed a SSBC disc brake setup for $250, so they're on their way up to me.
There is a huge get together Friday night near me that has a dyno, so might see what it does.

helpers are the best ! keep him at all costs !