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stock tank, new fuel lines, 3/8" to the pump, 5/16" to the carbs.

now, before anyone jumps all over that as not enough, i'm going by what tim banning does. he uses this setup on all his 572, 750+ HP street bemis, unless the customer asks for something different. it certainly is possible that in my case it isn't enough, and if so i'll figure that out and change it, but there is a proven track record of this combo working, so until i prove it isn't, i'll stick with it.

it looks to me like for whatever reason, the carbs were holding out well against that 10psi most of the time, as it really didn't run differently with the regulator in place.

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Sounds like you`re stuck on this because of what someone else does and IF it works that`s fine but if it doesn`t then you have problems. STREET HEMIS.......... You mean "non raced" poser hemis? Don`t have much to say except if it was my deal I`d put a real(elec.)pump w/some volume and some big azz fuel lines and let that thing eat..........that`s just me heck my 360 liked 1/2" lines and a bigger pump and it only went high 11`s. Hope u figre it out cos I think I already did unless you have some mechanical issues...........

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Ive got a Carter Strip pump sitting on the shelf because it wasnt enough pump for my single 800 cfm holly DP 440 509 cam. Thats with 3/8 line front to back and in the tank.

Sometimes it would make it down the track other times it would slow down or just fall flat on its face. 10.8,s was the best i could get it to run When it did make a full, or what Felt like a full pass.

I finally switched to a electric pump and was rewarded with instant 10.40,s and 10.50,s. Your Pump isnt enough IMHO My little 440 has far less fuel needs then your 570.

If you must stick with a mechanical, there is a Batter one out there. I forget who makes and sells them at the moment. Robb MC maybe???

Now this is not to say that you still dont have some kind of electrical too, you may. But IMO, you have a fuel pump issue too

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Thankxxxx............someone who gets it........

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stock tank, new fuel lines, 3/8" to the pump, 5/16" to the carbs.

now, before anyone jumps all over that as not enough, i'm going by what tim banning does. he uses this setup on all his 572, 750+ HP street bemis, unless the customer asks for something different. it certainly is possible that in my case it isn't enough, and if so i'll figure that out and change it, but there is a proven track record of this combo working, so until i prove it isn't, i'll stick with it.

it looks to me like for whatever reason, the carbs were holding out well against that 10psi most of the time, as it really didn't run differently with the regulator in place.

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I sure dont like the pressure dropping to 2 psi BUT
your A/F still shows fat... so what have you looked
at in the ignition... test all of it... what are the
plugs telling you

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I sure dont like the pressure dropping to 2 psi BUT
your A/F still shows fat... so what have you looked
at in the ignition... test all of it... what are the
plugs telling you

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Sounds like you`re stuck on this because of what someone else does and IF it works that`s fine but if it doesn`t then you have problems. STREET HEMIS.......... You mean "non raced" poser hemis? Don`t have much to say except if it was my deal I`d put a real(elec.)pump w/some volume and some big azz fuel lines and let that thing eat..........that`s just me heck my 360 liked 1/2" lines and a bigger pump and it only went high 11`s. Hope u figre it out cos I think I already did unless you have some mechanical issues...........

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Sounds like you`re stuck on this because of what someone else does and IF it works that`s fine but if it doesn`t then you have problems. STREET HEMIS.......... You mean "non raced" poser hemis? Don`t have much to say except if it was my deal I`d put a real(elec.)pump w/some volume and some big azz fuel lines and let that thing eat..........that`s just me heck my 360 liked 1/2" lines and a bigger pump and it only went high 11`s. Hope u figre it out cos I think I already did unless you have some mechanical issues...........

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i hear what you are saying, don't get me wrong. i have an idea of what i want here, and if i need to do something differently to make it run, i will do it. i just want to exhaust all my options before that.

at this point i haven't ruled out mechanical issues.

on to testing the ignition system, and that will be telltale...

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You can make a Mopar miss at the upper RPM by having it to rich, what plug Numbers are you running and a what gap? I would try leaning the carbs down one jet size on all eight jets BTW, which intake and jetting are you running in your carbs? If your running a stock unmodifed Mopar inline street Hemi intake manifold is the rear carb. paasenger side rear jet a Carter jet # 362 or 365(.062 or .065 hole size)If not try that

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I sure dont like the pressure dropping to 2 psi BUT
your A/F still shows fat... so what have you looked
at in the ignition... test all of it... what are the
plugs telling you

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plugs are saying fat...

i have looked at everything i can think of in the ignition. i am going to throw a points distributor in it just to rule everything out, and go from there.

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Since it always seems to be at one point even with
changes... have you checked the valve springs for
floating

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Since it always seems to be at one point even with
changes... have you checked the valve springs for
floating

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You can make a Mopar miss at the upper RPM by having it to rich, what plug Numbers are you running and a what gap? I would try leaning the carbs down one jet size on all eight jets BTW, which intake and jetting are you running in your carbs? If your running a stock unmodifed Mopar inline street Hemi intake manifold is the rear carb. paasenger side rear jet a Carter jet # 362 or 365(.062 or .065 hole size)If not try that

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No problem and I hear ya and understand that you`re on a different mission so hopefully you figure it out and get what you`re after.......

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thanks, appreciate it. i'll get there somehow!

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Since it always seems to be at one point even with
changes... have you checked the valve springs for
floating

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no, and i have been a little suspicious of that. the heads are stage V heads with beehive springs. how do i check for float?

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Check the spring pressure... I dont know if your springs
could hold the valve even when new... but if they
lost 10# from new specs I would be looking for better
springs..... JMO

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Sounds like you`re stuck on this because of what someone else does and IF it works that`s fine but if it doesn`t then you have problems. STREET HEMIS.......... You mean "non raced" poser hemis? Don`t have much to say except if it was my deal I`d put a real(elec.)pump w/some volume and some big azz fuel lines and let that thing eat..........that`s just me heck my 360 liked 1/2" lines and a bigger pump and it only went high 11`s. Hope u figre it out cos I think I already did unless you have some mechanical issues...........

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i hear what you are saying, don't get me wrong. i have an idea of what i want here, and if i need to do something differently to make it run, i will do it. i just want to exhaust all my options before that.

at this point i haven't ruled out mechanical issues.

on to testing the ignition system, and that will be telltale...

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You can make a Mopar miss at the upper RPM by having it to rich, what plug Numbers are you running and a what gap? I would try leaning the carbs down one jet size on all eight jets BTW, which intake and jetting are you running in your carbs? If your running a stock unmodifed Mopar inline street Hemi intake manifold is the rear carb. paasenger side rear jet a Carter jet # 362 or 365(.062 or .065 hole size)If not try that

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I don't think the fuel pump is the problem. Even at 2# you have enough fuel to keep the bowls full on the street. Drive it until it get's really hot and I bet you don't have 10# of fuel pressure without a regulator. I'm saying the pump is good without a regulator because it won't be putting out 10# when it's hot.

What kind plug wires you running? This is a hemi? right? You sure the plugs are fresh and good?

Got to run really good plug wires on a hemi, especially with a hot MSD ignition. They like to arc through the boots on a hemi. Tune up needs to be "on" at high RPMs and it put's heavy load on the ignition. I think that's where your problem lies. Just as long as your sure the lash is right. or pre load. 2 different things.

And I don't think your valves are floating at 4500 rpms or even 5000 rpms. I think that's when you said it starts breaking up.

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Since it always seems to be at one point even with
changes... have you checked the valve springs for
floating

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no, and i have been a little suspicious of that. the heads are stage V heads with beehive springs. how do i check for float?

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Check the spring pressure... I dont know if your springs
could hold the valve even when new... but if they
lost 10# from new specs I would be looking for better
springs..... JMO

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Big valve + small spring = crazy ignition like symptoms.
I thought mine sounded like it was bumping off a chip and looked at everything ignition........then chased fuel system problems that didn't exist.
I'd look here before I started throwing money at it.

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I sure dont like the pressure dropping to 2 psi BUT
your A/F still shows fat... so what have you looked
at in the ignition... test all of it... what are the
plugs telling you

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plugs are saying fat...

i have looked at everything i can think of in the ignition. i am going to throw a points distributor in it just to rule everything out, and go from there.

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I don't think the fuel pump is the problem. Even at 2# you have enough fuel to keep the bowls full on the street. Drive it until it get's really hot and I bet you don't have 10# of fuel pressure without a regulator. I'm saying the pump is good without a regulator because it won't be putting out 10# when it's hot.

What kind plug wires you running? This is a hemi? right? You sure the plugs are fresh and good?

Got to run really good plug wires on a hemi, especially with a hot MSD ignition. They like to arc through the boots on a hemi. Tune up needs to be "on" at high RPMs and it put's heavy load on the ignition. I think that's where your problem lies. Just as long as your sure the lash is right. or pre load. 2 different things.

And I don't think your valves are floating at 4500 rpms or even 5000 rpms. I think that's when you said it starts breaking up.

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