Number 2, still the RH head.

There may be 2 threads showing from underneath. Maybe I need better reading glasses?

Resized, cropped and expanded:

Again:

Last one for now.

One positive outcome from the thicker head gasket is now your pushrods aren't too long , if anything they might be a tad too long still. I'm having a hard time seeing 2 threads there , but if that is what you see BELOW the rocker and not below where the threads in the rocker stop then you are good to go .

I hear about how some guys can R&R heads or entire engines in record time, but I have had mixed luck doing so. Maybe some of it is because of the car.....
I have to say that having 2" headers makes this sort of job a real pisser. To get the heads off, the headers have to come out. To get them out, the center link gets unbolted, the trans linkage too. This of course requires lifting the car to what feels like an almost unsafe height so the angle is right for installing or removing these headers. I'd never switch to manifolds, but I can see why many people stick with them.
Going back together, most of the header bolts are easily reached except near #1 and #2 tubes. I sometimes forget to tighten down the starter leads before bolting the starter in place. They are almost impossible to reach afterwards with the headers in place.
I'm almost there, just a few things on the top side to finish. I have both the Fel Pro intake paper gaskets and the thicker Mr Gasket ones. I figure that the thicker head gaskets may require thicker intake gaskets to manitain proper intake port alignment.

The car is running again!

I just finished up and washed the Charger for the first time in months. I ended up using the Mr gasket intake gaskets and the port match looked pretty good. I currently have the timing set to 19 initial, 33 total. I'll run the remaining 110 octane fuel out and fill the tank with some 91. With the fresh gas I'll be able to determine how much more timing I can tolerate. I see that many guys run between 34 and 36 degrees total. I have a Rev-N-Nator ECU and would like to try that to see if there are any gains to be had. I tried it before with the 509 cam and .039 gaskets and it detonated worse with the Rev-N-Nator even with timing backed off.

I was finally able to drive the car today. ZERO knocking at any time. I'll admit that it was only 50 degrees out and that I'm running a 90/10 mix of 91 octane and the rest of the 110 that was in the tank since before the teardown. The car should still be fine on straight 91 in the Summer.
There is more tuning to do. The idle is rougher and has less vacuum at the same rpm as before. I'm running too rich as well. The Air/Fuel guage shows me to be between 12.0 and 13.0 at part throttle cruise and under 12.0 at WOT. It wasn't much different before the head gasket swap though. Before, I had hoped that running a bit richer might help quell the detonation. I've read that optimal power is often found with readings much leaner than what I'm showing so I'll try some smaller jets and adjust the idle mixture screws. I could probably use more initial timing since I am at 19 initial right now.