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Re: Homebuilt Caltrac/Slide-a link copy [Re: topfueldart] #149285
12/07/08 07:50 PM
12/07/08 07:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,131
Amarillo, Texas
BBR Offline OP
master
BBR  Offline OP
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,131
Amarillo, Texas
I was going to use solid aluminum, but ended up with polyurethane instead. If it proves to be inconsistent, I will make some aluminum ones.


Drag Week 2011 - 77th place - DD
Drag Week 2012 - 2nd place SRBB N/A
Drag Week 2014 - Kapooya
RMRW 2018
RMRW 2020
Re: Homebuilt Caltrac/Slide-a link copy [Re: BBR] #149286
02/16/09 11:57 PM
02/16/09 11:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,384
Madison Wi
NTOLERANCE Offline
master
NTOLERANCE  Offline
master

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,384
Madison Wi
I have been using this thread to start building my own. Thanks for all the input guys.

I wanted to share something I ran across. I was starting to mock up the transfer pivot plates at work, and was looking at the 3 pt hitch on the back of our ford tractor, and thought, "Man, those look just like the transfer links." I did some searching around and found some at NAPA.

Closest one I found there was this one:



Part number 8192002, sells for about $50.00. Said it was 29" long, but they couldnt tell me if that was fully extended or fully collapsed.

LAter I was at Harbor Freight, looking for a wheel balancer, and found this:



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96073

Now looking at the pic on the web site, it looks ALOT smaller than it really is. I actually thought at first it might bee too heavy. I didnt have a tape measure with me, but the holes in the rod ends looked to be close to 3/4" maybe bigger. And at $20.00 or so, its a pretty cheap set up. The body of the rod tube is pretty thick.

I am not sure how a lift arm or top link for a 3 pt hitch will hold up under a severly high HP car, or how it will handle the shock loads of a heavy car with a stick and slicks. But even if you dont want the HF units, if the NAPA unit works for $50.00 it still isnt a bad deal. By the time you buy the tubing and rod ends, youre pretty close to that price anyway, and dont need to fab anything.

Well thought i would share. I am going to try the HF units. I dont like buying stuff there anymore than anyone else, but if it doesnt work I can always upgrade.

WE have a farm store nearby as well, I may stop in there and have a look-se.


I used to care but....... things have changed
Re: Homebuilt Caltrac/Slide-a link copy [Re: NTOLERANCE] #149287
02/17/09 09:35 AM
02/17/09 09:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,131
Amarillo, Texas
BBR Offline OP
master
BBR  Offline OP
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,131
Amarillo, Texas
lmao

I had the same thought when I started this project. The top links *are* heavy and the super coarse threads are a bit sloppy, but I'd be interested to see if it works.

4x4 guys take these links, cut & lengthen them and use them for suspension links.

Some others have suggested using these:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TIE-ROD-SLEEVE-3and4-THREAD,2086.html

But I don't know if they would be strong enough.

good luck and take pics!


Drag Week 2011 - 77th place - DD
Drag Week 2012 - 2nd place SRBB N/A
Drag Week 2014 - Kapooya
RMRW 2018
RMRW 2020
Re: Homebuilt Caltrac/Slide-a link copy [Re: BBR] #149288
02/17/09 05:04 PM
02/17/09 05:04 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
I wouldn't use those HF links.

If you don't want CM force bars, you can get DOM tubing and thread it. Or buy bungs to fit.

Last thing you need it the force bar flexing or breaking.

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