Good question.

I made no changes as it was a quick install. The headers are tri-y. With the small camshaft in the larger engine the size is probably OK. New headers are on the to do list. I also think a 4-1 collector will make more power. I have a neighbor who runs comp and builds headers. He says he has never seen a tri-Y run faster down the drag strip. They look really trick and fit real nice though.

Leon

If I had to guess I would say that the tri-Y headers deliver a broader torque/HP curve at the expense perhaps of the biggest peak numbers possible.

Off topic but my machinist was running a 5L hydroplane and was playing with an 8 into 1 header that basically did both. Better peak #'s than 8 into 2 and more area under the curve too.

Kevin

I know of a few bargains if anyone is looking.

There is a 440+ EEI block R5P7 for sale that supposedly needs freshening. I think it can be bought in the low teens.

A guy was telling me they had a few of the 358's in a shop close to my house. I also plan to sell at least one this winter. The other is my old one and I need to see about repair options before putting it together. Everybody and their brother has a set of heads with the XR2 expectations.

I can only tell of my experiences. The XR2 is not cheap after machine work. And they still seam to have some gremlins. The EEi block is aluminum if you are allowed that. $7,500 buys a block that is ready to bolt parts in. The other expense will be the Bryant crank $3,200 ready to bolt in. Maybe a few thousand more than you want to spend, but I have found they work for large displacements. The block is right on with anything else I have priced. The crank may be more than you think you need. It is a pricey piece but a very good one. Maybe someone else would come up with a crank if the blocks caught on. Don't know how long EEi will continue to make them. Just depends on demand.

The 358 is a fun engine for the buck. For those of us who want to set the world on fire the EEi block is a great option IMO. I'm not even making a spark yet, but the parts seem to work really well.

Leon

This has piqued my interest. Some good reading and info here

Just received a PM about adapter plates. I would like to share what little I know.

ATI makes and adapter plate similar to what they did for glides behind mopars. It adapts the pattern over to an Olds pattern. Then you use an olds case or an olds aftermarket bell.

BOBSPROFAB makes an adapter with crank adapter that uses your mopar starter. Depending on the crank pattern 6 or 8 as to which adapter and flex plate you use. I have this in my car now, it works.

Someone on Ebay sells one that looks about the same. $950

Kowalsky machine in Lynchburg, VA has made a few for their customers. It uses the R5 starter and is a thinner adapter with a custom made flexplate or flywheel.

My plans this winter is to take a SB Mopar aftermarket bell for powerglide and plug the current bolt holes. Then redrill for the R5. Then have a flywheel made for my crank with the 130 tooth starter ring. If anyone is interested I could do a few at that time and save money for everyone. But, I am not going to do extras on a chance.

R5P7 Bantam made his own midplate adapter deal pretty similar to ATI's adapter.

The price guys want for the adapter have run a lot of people away. They should not be this highly priced IMO. But, if you only do a couple here and there it cost more to do them.

Leon

I'd be prepared to work with someone on making these, I have a basic one designed, but don't currently have anything to test fit it too. Once the bugs were ironed out I could make them for sale.

Don't PM me asking how much, because I won't know until I have the first one finished. I have a ball park idea and it's less than most sell for.

Just putting that out there.

We have made two here, r5 - sb crysler, I have the cad files, any bids?

I suppose everyone ran into the same thing I ran into. Two of the 3/8 bolt holes overlap. Some step the sizes down some slot the bolthole on the SB mopar bell. I had the top hole in my aftermarket bell and just did away with the 10&2 O'clock positions on the mopar bell.

The only real dislike I have is the 7/16" bolt that goes above the starter next to the dowel pin. The corner of the R5 block is in the way. I have a 5/16" hole tapped in the plate with a bushing screwed in the tranny. The back of the tranny milled flat to run a 5/16X18 in from the back. IMO if the adapter went behind the starter this 7/16 bolt that is next to the dowel would not be so important. I have had zero issues with anything while running the car with the adapter.

It will just be less stuff if I change the pattern on a Reid Bell.

Leon

Time to start taking things apart. Have two 358's I need to get together.

One I have to have some work done to and decide on some things. Would really like to do one with a single stage wet sump pan. Has anyone here done this yet? I think with a more streetable piston and a single stage pump that is easier to locate this would be a great engine for someone who is a little nervous about getting into one of these engines.

The other is pretty cut and dry clean everything up. Check it all out and put it back together. It is a Busch motor with Jesel keyway rollers. Should be a really nice engine when complete.

Kind of curious as to what the people who are interested in these types of engines would want if they were able to make their own choices. I know I would want a tighter better sealing piston and some more low end grunt. They are plenty stout up top. The dry sump is a little hard to locate for some folks. I want to address both of these issues.

Leon

Make them more bolt in friendly. I agree, the dry sump scares lots of people and is hard to package. If a wet sump can be done, it'd worth pursuing. Also, the need to spin them to 9,000 to make power is also scary, if the power band can be shifted down at all, that would help ease fears and make a better street/strip motor.

My adapter plate is extremely easy to deal with.

You don't have to turn them over 9K to make power. That is sort of a myth. Typically the one I ran started making useable power around 7,600. You can shift wherever you like above that. I ran very respectable numbers shifting at 8,400. With a glide you are going to want to stretch it up some. Just because you can turn 9,500 doesn't mean you have to. That said, once you own one you will notice how smooth they are in the high RPM's you get over the fear.

The dry sump is a packaging nightmare on some cars. It is also a plumbing nightmare for guys who don't like oil lines. This is why I am thinking of doing one with a wet sump. But, there is more power in a dry sump. External pumps are intimidating, dry sumps even more. But, after running one you can appreciate the benefits.

Leon

Leon, how do you think they will handle boost? I have thought that I'd like to build a 358 and run my big ass turbo on it. With those rpms it should like a good sized turbo. Just not sure the tiny pistons can handle it and if a person can even get the compression down to a reasonable level.

Ken Duttweiler built one for the Speed Demon land speed car. The machined the block to take spacers around the tops of the bores for support. I don't know how reliable their engines were, but from what I have seen, they went with a different engine or perhaps an Ernie Elliot block. Does anyone know anymore, I am going by some articles I have read online.

I looked at that car last year at PRI. I thought it had a iron block. There is plenty of room to get a lower compression piston in it. But, I like the idea of a spacer that fits into the water jacket on a iron block. So far really happy with my EEI block. But, I think there are lot of improvements I can make that the builder did not consider.

They installed a burp vent on the valley pan. Under pressure it releases through a filter. The engine builder said they installed it to vent and allow the dry sump to properly pull the oil out of the cam tunnel. It doesn't appear to work that way. The Arrington block I have has a plug with a hole in it to drain the oil out of the cam tunnel in case something failed. It also has a big hole with a screen epoxied in to vent the top of the engine with the bottom.

I just need to get the 358's rolling so I can go throught the 440 EEI engine and make it better.

Leon

Yes, it was an iron block, they went to a Little Chief headed SBC I have since discovered that they set land speed records with. A 299ci and 346 odd engine for different records. Not sure why they went to a Little chief engine, whether it was an issue with the R5 blocks, the siamese exhaust ports or some other reason/s.

Getting ready for PRI, I pulled the head on my EEI440 combo. I found it does not have the latest sleeve configuration. The upgrade is $3K. Then you get the one I had hoped for. I had hoped and crossed my fingers it had the tricked out LA sleeve with large flanges on it. This way I could safely put a mother load of nitrous on the combo. LOL

I am very happy with this engine and the way it runs for the wimpy camshaft it has. And some other issues. Here is a pic of the top of the block. It basically looks like a cast iron R5 other than it is aluminum and has cast iron sleeves in it.

Leon

Can these not be converted to an external wet sump like the SB2's? Would at least make the pan simpler and pump smaller?

Yes, Al they can.

Ryan Johnson just did one from what I am told. I understand he just drilled holes in the bottom of the cam tunnel.

I have one cast iron block that has a large plug in the front that can be taken out. Then go into the suction compartment on the rear and drill hole to allow oil to flow back to the pan.

In the pic the line up front on the left is the feed line for the oiling system. To the right is the suction line for the cam tunnel. It is a long fitting with an O-ring around it. This is necessary to get the fitting where it can be accessed. The O-ring seals the tube to the compartment. The treaded part up top threads into the Bell housing portion of the block to hold it in place.

I can understand why people would like to run one with a single stage wet sump. A lot less lines and a lot cheaper. It is a very simple fix with the belt drive, rear cam plate, and oil pan removed.

Leon

Plus if you are running in certain heads up organizations you will avoid a weight penalty by using a wet sump over a dry sump.