the trans-go valve is the replacement manual control valve. this goes in the vb.

NAPA sells a kit that will fix this if the problem is drainback. It's ~30 bucks and takes ~1 hour to install...

That looks like the manual valve inside the valve body.Sonnax makes a line pressure regulator valve with a hole drilled in it to keep the torque converter charged all the time.

You can drill thru the casting and save your money too..approx .040 bit..

Pulled out Sonnax catalog,here are the part#s and names

Manual valve(same as EBAY link)#22771-09
Lube regulated Pressure regulator Valve#22771A-02K

1-800-843-2600
www.sonnax.com

Don`t quite know if it will work on mid 60`s valve body though.

Im assuming this valve will not be for a manual valve body? Will it??

I hate the fact that my shift selector seal leaks after a day of sitting.....

trans-go includes this valve in their manual vb kit. it should work for others.

Thanks for the relpies guy, we're getting somewhere!!!

I think I'm a little confused. I have the Sonnax manual valve that has the hole in it to keep the fluid charged in Park, but this only helps the situation, I still have to revv the engine to around 2000 rpm in park or Nuetral in order to get things going when I put the gear selector in Drive.

What else do I need???? What is the sntidrainback valve, where does it go?

How do I save $$$ with a 0.040" drill bit?

Thanks!!

The Sonnax valve you have is a check valve set-up. It allows oilo flow in one way only. Drilling the hole will help charge the converter on the start up but increases the drain back when not running.

Don't do both!!
You most likely have too much clearance with the pump bushing to converter snout.
With any converter changes you should check this clearance to be sure.
And you may have a bad converter. Especially from that company.

"The Sonnax valve you have is a check valve set-up. It allows oilo flow in one way only. Drilling the hole will help charge the converter on the start up but increases the drain back when not running."

I had a feeling that would happen...


"You most likely have too much clearance with the pump bushing to converter snout.
And you may have a bad converter. "

I was afraid of this, I knew I should've mic'd the snout when I swapped converters. For Reference, what should the dimension be? Any way to fix a too small snout (sleeve)?

Why do I have to revv the motor for the fluid to start flowing? Am I just impatient?

Thanks again!!

The Sonnax valve you have is a check valve set-up. It allows oilo flow in one way only. Drilling the hole will help charge the converter on the start up but increases the drain back when not running

I understand that it helps charged the convertor,the drain back problem is this because the convertor is for racing applications? I have never have had a problem with the hole being drilled with a stock application,and with removing the factory drain back valve in the lines??With installing the new manuel valve.

77, are you talking about drilling the hole in the manual valve itself? If not, where?

The Converter is a TCI street fighter, not so sure its a race piece...

You can put a check valve in the coolant line, this
is done on the new trans now, you can get the line
with the valve in it at your local dealer

like mr.pbody said, new trucks have a check valve in the line to help prevent the trans cooler from draining back. that might be another good idea although i heard that this check valve goes bad and will ruin a trans from getting blocked up completely.

whiplash, long ago i bought a GER converter that would move my car untill 3000 rpms. driving on the street like this was a nightmare and i looked like a mental case launching the car every time i pulled out. good converters will not slip like that but will still flash to their intended stall. the converter could be your problem.

Just like sixpackgut said ,to a point,most all new vehicles have the drain back valve,including 94-up jeeps,sorry my opinion,junk,we remove all one way valves,The lines get clogged and the valves clog,I don't do alot of racing trans anymore,gave up on them,only true freinds understand them,yes they do break,convertor drainback,been around since the trans was built,back in the 60's,still don't understand why Chrysler has the only trans that flows in neutral,even the new chrysler,Daimler trans does the same,yes there are kits to prevent this,and or help!I have installed about 300 and they do work. Racing ,I don't know, are you sure like sixpacknut,said, could poss be your convertor....have seen that many of times ,esp with an inferior convertor...

As far as drilling a hole,I always drill thru the channel on the throttle pressure valve,yes it does aid in the charging of the convertor and in a little discharge, not enough to cause this problem,like I said ,this has always been a problem,with Chyrsler,ask Kunkle,I'd love to hear his opinion,as I'm always learning,the problem is ,I'm thinking about 50 of them instead of 1,so man y new trans to remember...hahaha

Converter drainback and converter fill are two different issues. As long as there is sufficient clearance for fluid to flow between components there will be a path for the converter to drain.

The fill issue is in the design of of the manual valve which is a holdover from the old pushbutton days when there was no Park position in the pushbutton quadrant. With the Park position added, the manual valve moves in one more notch and uncovers a path for line pressure to flow directly from the valve body to the sump. Drilling a hole between channels to aid converter fill won't keep up with the flow volume lost through the manual valve. The answer is to add a segment to the manual valve that closes off the escape path in Park. This is what the TransGo and Sonnax valves do. (And what Ma Mopar shoulda done 40 years ago)

With the modified manual valve installed there will still be converter drainback but the converter will fill in Park. The problem in the original post doesn't sound like a converter fill problem, it sounds more like a pressure problem. Low pressure at low rpms would explain the need to rev the motor before the trans engages.

It takes more pressure to engage a component than it does to keep it engaged so, if pressure is the problem, the trans will stay in gear even after the pressure drops with engine rpm.

I would suggest hooking up a gauge to the line pressure test port to see what the pressure is.