Quote:

---

i know theres probably lots of threads for this, but i went through 25 pages before i gave up..
i broke another valley pan last weekend, right down the middle, again!!.. so ive been told i need to switch to an evacuation system, i found on at summit for 38 bucks and was wondering if you guys have any dos or donts for me when installing it..

i have been running a pcv on one side and a breather on the other and everytime i run at the track i break a valley pan and im really tired of it...

---

Quote:

---

i dont have a way to post pics but i guess i should elaborate a bit,

its a 67 440 with eddy perf rpm heads, milled down to 79cc's port matched and a perf rpm intake, 030 over bore with forged pistons, steel crank and rods, old ultradyne solid cam, all packed in a 74 amc hornet hatchback, now the first time i really stood on it it pushed the dipstick out a lil and pushed oil out on the header, so i figured at the time i must have over revved it, i went racing shortly after and it got really bad at the track and i noticed when i got it home that the valley pan was cracked, after some research i figured out that i had too much crankcase pressure and replaced the pan and added a breather to the opposite valve cover, i drove it in town for a while and thought i had it fixed, went racing again and it doesnt push the dipstick out anymore but it still cracked the valley pan

---

You still have way to much crankcase pressure... you
need to watch some of those breather caps.. the port
in the cap(the hole) on some is actually restricted
alot with the stuffing in them... I had a pair of
Summit ones that I had to bend open the metal tang
in it and pulled out over half of the stuffing to get
it to flow... just try blowing into the breather from
the engine side.. it should be fairly easy... on the
E-vacs.. if you run muffs you CAN run into problems..
the e-vac will pull about 5"HG and for every inch
of back pressure in the muffs you decrease the vac
by the same amount... until you start making pressure
and blows the check valve out and starts pressurizing
the crankcase with exhaust gasses.... the thing is
that the higher your RPM goes it wants to make more
pressure... thats why on the city driving you figured
it was fixed(low rpm) and at the track you spun it up

Quote:

---

Might want to consider running a leak down test to see where the leak is at and just how bad it is.

---

Agreed, you`ve got bigger problems that a new pan probably wont fix.

Quote:

---

i pulled the intake and valley pan, checked the cam lobes and all look great, i did notice that the second cyl back on the pass side shows signs of the intake valve not seating correctly, theres black soot, looks like exhaust around the valve seat area and up.. maybe a valve too tight?

---

Horny ... you have more serious-issues than soot or a valve tooo tight. The last split/blown-up VP I saw had a hole in a piston the size of a nickel

Quote:

---

Horny ... you have more serious-issues than soot or a valve tooo tight. The last split/blown-up VP I saw had a hole in a piston the size of a nickel

---

it doesnt run bad at all, no missfires no popping or anything weird, it runs awesome, the last time out it cracked the pan and i stuffed a bunch of rags under the intake to soak it up while i finished running that night, it still ran 11.60's just had to change the rags every round... leak down test it is...