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What kind of heads?? You sure the fire wire on the fel pro gaskets is not hanging in the combustion chamber and glowing red hot?? a common problem.

Lean jetting and too low a power valve number can cause light throttle ping too!

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I was at Sears yesterday. The Craftsman sockets must have been redesigned since the article came out. The ones I measured were .95 in diameter. I was hoping to try that method.

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Then use two old lifters glued together to be tall enough.

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Exactly what I was thinking

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I may have to adjust the idle speed above the 600 rpms in gear! Is it fair to guess that a bigger cam will need a higher numbered Power Valve?

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I look at the rpm change from nuetral to in gear, 150 to 200 RPM is good 1000 RPM in nuetral, 800 to 900 in gear As far as the numbers on the power valves, bigger cams idling at lower RPM make less manifold vacume so you should be good with the 3.5 if it has 7.0 or higher vacume inches idling in gear You wouldn't want to try a 6.5 power valve in a motor that has 7.0 inches idling in gear

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You wouldn't want to try a 6.5 power valve in a motor that has 7.0 inches idling in gear

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Seems I can be a little slow sometimes.
This means that by going to the lower rated 3.5 valve, I made the carb run leaner than with the 6.5?

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Not at WOT the 3.5 opens at a lower manifold vacume, both P.V. will be opened at WOT The 6.5 will open sooner at part throotle cruise than the 3.5 will The main thing to check before selecting the power valve to use is to check the manifold vacume with the trans in gear, then select a power valve that is 1 to 2 inches lower than idle vacume I had the same saet of six pak carbs on several different motors, one with abg cam and another with a lot smaller cam, 518 C.I. versus 446 C.i. The big motor wanted a 2.5 P.W., it had 4.5 inches vacume idling in gear at 850 RPM the 446 C.i. motor had over 8.0 inches idling in gear, I found out that the little motor would make vacume in high gear at WOT on a 1/4 mile track making the 2.5 power open and close I put a 6.5 in it and that fixed the problem I had to put the lower(2.5) P.V. back in the center carb for the bigger motor when i put those carbs. back on it Going fast is never easy Be prepared to work and be disappointed some times while you learn

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I'm assuming that you are set on the octane you'll use. Yeah, I want the engine to run well on pump premium fuel. Here in CA, we're limited to 91 octane. I want to be able to drive it without having to resort to any sort of octane boosters. What about opening up the chambers (unshrouding the valves on the ends works well for more flow also) or deependng the valve notches or thicker head gaskets if you have no quench I thought of the thicker head gasket idea, but at .056 quench distance, I at least have some quench going on. I'm considering having the heads ported over the winter. I may be way off here but the 509 is an old school wild cam & I cant see that going more wild with a cam will get the the DCR down to where you can run the octane you desire. I agree to a point, but there is more to it. The Lunati has a later intake closing event. This will bleed off some cylinder pressure, reducing the dynamic compression ratio. The goal , and hopefully the result, is to reduce the octane requirements and allow the engine to make more power. Just me I'd feed this monster the octane it wants (& needs) & put the exact cam in there you want for your driving style rather than having to compromise your driveability with a wilder cam to run the inadequate octane you want & I dont think ANY cam is going to lower the DCR enough OR bite the bullet & do it right & lower the SCR & put the corect cam in there to suit your driving. You'll be happier in the long run. Holler how it turns out

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