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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: MoparDonny]
#147175
11/08/08 08:44 AM
11/08/08 08:44 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
JimG
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
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Quote:
9004 or HID headlights??
Hi Don:
I've got Hella european-spec headlights in my car. They use the replaceable H4 and H1 bulbs. I've got 100 watt bulbs in the high beams, and 80/100s in the low beams. The lights have a pattern with a sharp cutoff, so as long as the low beams are aimed properly, oncoming cars don't get blinded.
Before I added the flamethrower headlights, I also added headlight relays to eliminate the voltage drop (and dim headlights) that our cars typically have. I remember I had a little over one volt of voltage drop between the positive terminal of my headlights and the positive terminal of the battery when the headlights were on. That's a lot, and that's bad! The relays fixed that, and are necessary if you add high power headlights.
I like your other ideas. I'd really like to get some brighter bulbs in my instrument cluster. I always find myself trying to turn the brightness up, even when it's maxed out.
Jim
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: JimG]
#147176
11/08/08 09:05 AM
11/08/08 09:05 AM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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I did the E-spec headlight and relay upgrade on my old Diplomat. But I used Bosch stuff. LED lights, in a retrofit application, aren't usually "legal" and don't work as good as far as a light distribution pattern goes, especially at an angle. If you want to up date the bulbs to a more powerful light output there are several incandescent bulbs that fit and work better. BUt I forget the numbers, sorry.
Just remember more powerful lights means more current needed, your alternator might need updating too.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: MoparDonny]
#147179
11/08/08 03:32 PM
11/08/08 03:32 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,065
Milwaukee, WI
In_The_Pink
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,065
Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:
Jim, how did you do that conversion with the headlights? was it a complete kit? Where does one find a kit like that?
www.rallylights.com
I second the suggestion to use Hella European spec H4 conversion headlamps. It will be one of the best upgrades you ever make.
Relays are definitely helpful if you're wiring isn't great or its condition is unknown, and they're not all that expensive- you can buy 'em from the same place you buy conversion headlamps.
Disconnecting the main electrical disconnect plugs and cleaning all of the terminals helps keep things in good shape. Corrosion = resistance and in turn, more heat, which eventually (if the terminals have heavy corrosion), results in the oft-seen melting where the alternator feed passes through the bulkhead. 
The electric trunk lid release is easy- find a Fifth Ave or similar luxury car from the '70s-'80s and remove the latch, wiring, and trunk release button from the glovebox. Run power from the fusebox to the trunk release switch (I suggest you wire it with hot power only when the ignition switch is not in the "RUN" position), then run a wire back to the trunk release. The electric release grounds to the body/trunklid through the mounting bolts. You can even add a trunk light at the same time if you grab the release from a Fifth Ave. 
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: CR8CRSHR]
#147180
11/08/08 03:57 PM
11/08/08 03:57 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,737
Florida
BDW
master
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master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,737
Florida
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Quote:
Biggest upgrade is the MAD Ammeter Bypass. Then adding relays for the Headlights...Does not get any better...
This fixed my diming lights at idle problem. I can now idle with A/C,lights, etc and the stock alternator.
Simple mod made a world of difference.
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: MoparDonny]
#147182
11/08/08 04:45 PM
11/08/08 04:45 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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There is a better bulb than the 2057's you mention. The 2057 bulb has a lower light output on "low" than the 1157 and the same light output at "high" as the 1157.
What you want is a 3496, 8 more CP on high, same output on low as the 1157.
For an 1156 replacement try a 3497 bulb.
For the 194/168 style bulb try a 2886X, 6 CP versus the 2/3 CP of the 194/168 bulbs.
You fail to understand what I am telling you about the LED bulbs. Light OUTPUT isn't the issue. It's the light DISTRIBUTION that is the issue. Especially in a brake/tailight application where a view from an angle is important. LED bulbs do not spread light about like an incandescent bulb, they are more focused. IOW, the beam pattern is substantially different.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: MoparDonny]
#147183
11/08/08 05:33 PM
11/08/08 05:33 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
JimG
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
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Quote:
Jim, how did you do that conversion with the headlights? was it a complete kit? Where does one find a kit like that?
In The Pink beat me to the source for the Europen-spec Hellas.
For the headlight relay box, I started with a Tupperware lidded container that holds one sandwich. I admit it sounds ghetto at first, but the relays fit perfectly and it's watertight. I mounted 3 generic automotive relays similar to this inside...
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/search.aspx?C=&K=automotive%20relay
...one for each high beam and one for both low beams. I made one hole in the side of the Tupperware container for the wires to come out, then I sealed the hole with RTV. The box fit perfectly behind the headlights on my '67 Coronet, and now that it's painted black, it's almost impossible to see it back there.
Remember to buy the matching wiring harness if you use relays like I used.
I didn't have to butcher my headlight wiring at all to connect this. I bought some 1/4" male Sta-Kon tabs, and they plug perfectly into the car's existing headlight plug. That's how I wired the coils of the relays - off the cars existing headlight wiring. Turn on the high beams, and the high beam relay's coil pulls in.
I powered the headlights from the stud on the starter relay. I put a 40-amp fuse in series, near the starter relay, and used appropriate-sized wire. I think it was #10 or #8 - I can't remember.
If you don't eliminate the ammeter, keep in mind that when you turn on the headlights after they're wired this way, the ammeter will indicate a charge of the same amount as the current draw of your headlights.
I hope that helps.
Jim
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: JimG]
#147185
11/09/08 09:51 AM
11/09/08 09:51 AM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
JimG
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
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Let me elaborate on something I said earlier Quote:
The lights have a pattern with a sharp cutoff, so as long as the low beams are aimed properly, oncoming cars don't get blinded.
The light pattern of every H4 headlight I've ever used (Hella, CIBIE) was rather wierd and definitely an acquired taste. I've heard the pattern described as "3/4 of a pie". Another way to describe the pattern is a clock with everything from 9 o'clock to midnight missing.
Some people actually prefer USA-legal halogen sealed beams to Euro-spec H4's.
DISCLAIMER: What follows is my opinion and nothing else, so take it for what it's worth.
Personally, if you run brighter bulbs, like 80/100's, I still prefer H4's to halogen sealed beams, because the extra brightness more than compensates for the wierd pattern. If you stick with 55/60 watt bulbs, I prefer halogen sealed beams.
If you're running a 4-light system, there is no disadvantage to adding the H1's in the high-beam side. The above refers to H4 lights only.
I'd be interested in hearing from others who've done the conversion to find out if their experience is similar to mine.
There seems to be a lot of interest in these headlights, and the last thing I want is someone running out and buying them strictly on my recommendation (they're not cheap) and being unhappy with them. Caveat emptor.
Jim
Last edited by JimG; 11/09/08 10:01 AM.
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: JimG]
#147186
11/09/08 10:04 AM
11/09/08 10:04 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,065
Milwaukee, WI
In_The_Pink
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,065
Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:
Let me elaborate on something I said earlier
Quote:
The lights have a pattern with a sharp cutoff, so as long as the low beams are aimed properly, oncoming cars don't get blinded.
The light pattern of every H4 headlight I've ever used (Hella, CIBIE) was rather wierd and definitely an acquired taste. I've heard the pattern described as "3/4 of a pie". Another way to describe the pattern is a clock with everything from 9 o'clock to midnight missing.
I'd be interested in hearing from others who've done the conversion to find out if their experience is similar to mine.
I would't call the light pattern from Euro-spec H4s wierd, just different. They do have a sharp cutoff, and focus light in different areas, as detailed in this prargraph, taken from the rallylights.com 'site:
"E code low beam headlamps have a wide beam that lights the road from side to side. They are useful at 300-400 feet. There is a sharp horizontal transition from dark to light about in about 2" vertically at about 25 feet. A wedge of light on the right side lights up roadside signs. On low beam you can expect about four times as much light on the road as a standard sealed beam and twice as much on high beam. Because of the tight beam control, these lamps can be aimed very accurately which facilitates the use of upgraded bulbs without offending oncoming traffic. E-code high beam headlamps focus their light energy far down the road - little light is wasted lighting up the side of the road near the car. These lamps are not certified for use on public highways in the US and are sold for off road and racing purposes only."
I've run the 55/100W bulbs in Hella H4 lenses in all my vehicles for almost ten years now, and I was amazed how much better lit the road is with them on compared to halogen sleaed beams. I don't think $100 is crazy money to spend on an upgrade that makes driving at night much more enjoyable and safe...especially this time of year. 
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: Gavin]
#147189
11/10/08 08:57 AM
11/10/08 08:57 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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just a word of caution. brighter taillight bulbs run hotter (talking about filament bulbs). going brighter can melt housings and lenses.
also, they take more power so theres a bigger drag on the battery
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
#147190
11/10/08 10:43 AM
11/10/08 10:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,186
Wherever I am.
Junky
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,186
Wherever I am.
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Quote:
just a word of caution. brighter taillight bulbs run hotter (talking about filament bulbs). going brighter can melt housings and lenses.
also, they take more power so theres a bigger drag on the battery
A 3496 bulb has 8 more CP on high, same output on low as the 1157. How much more heat is "8 more CP" relative to the 1157?
The 3497 can replace the 1156.
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Re: Let's talk small electrical upgrades
[Re: Gavin]
#147191
11/20/08 04:51 PM
11/20/08 04:51 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
challenger70
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
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Quote:
H1 is a single hi-beam bulb, H4 has low and high beam filaments. So to replace the standard Challenger arrangement, H1's on the inside two headlights, H4 on the outside two.
Or.....do what I did and put H4's on all four, I liked the idea of having four lights on during normal driving as opposed to only on high beam.
So what is the difference between the Xenon bulbs and the H1/H4's? I am really interested in this conversion but want to sort through what is what first.  do you have to modify the car at all, other than wiring?
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