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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#1465239
07/10/13 02:12 PM
07/10/13 02:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,324
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,324
A gulag near you.
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We are not talking about a Pro-stock engine here guys. Fix the dog-gone thing and run it. Cheese and rice. 
all i did was answer the question he asked ...
Sorry John that wasn't really pointed toward you. It just that some guys get so book crazy on every little issue their cars never hit the road. I personally would NEVER use a helicoil on anything after working with keenserts in the mill. Helicoils would fail everytime we used them and this is why we started using keenserts. For what he is doing going deeper and using a stud would last forever. Destort a cylinder. To the guy that is worried about this come-on now. 
I didn't take anything by it .
Funny , opposite here on helicoils ... military/aerospace ... anything that is alum and gets threads gets helicoiled at minimum.
I'm with you , way over thinking here and I apoligize for going over edge. It should have already been back together with a new bolt ...  `
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: challenger70]
#1465240
07/10/13 03:40 PM
07/10/13 03:40 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,882
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,882
Bend,OR USA
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Put the head on the motor and torque all the stock head bolts on it several times, 2 or 3 times, and if the bad one holds march on   If it doesn't hold, then fix that hole
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 07/10/13 03:41 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: challenger70]
#1465241
07/10/13 10:25 PM
07/10/13 10:25 PM
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 27
Southern Indiana
R/T Lee
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 27
Southern Indiana
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At one point in time I thought Locktite was a emergency/ 1 time use deal. I've been through a couple Locktite courses and it really changed my outlook on the use of locktite. It fills the thread space in the bolt hole, and only cures in absence of air. use high strength Red 277. It will hold, wont loosen on you, and will come out when you want it to.
NO!! It's not a Nova...
72' Demon 340-727-8 3/4 3.55
69' Charger 440-727-8 3/4
78 Powerwagon 318-727
99' Dakota R/T 5.9
74' Scamp (project)
96' Cherokee 4.0 4x4
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: R/T Lee]
#1465242
07/10/13 10:34 PM
07/10/13 10:34 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,882
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,882
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
At one point in time I thought Locktite was a emergency/ 1 time use deal. I've been through a couple Locktite courses and it really changed my outlook on the use of locktite. It fills the thread space in the bolt hole, and only cures in absence of air. use high strength Red 277. It will hold, wont loosen on you, and will come out when you want it to.
I've broken off a 3/8 cam bolt by using red locktite    Blue is better on some places like cam bolts, header bolts,oil pan bolts, threaded wheel studs and other similar fastener applictaions
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1465243
07/11/13 03:53 PM
07/11/13 03:53 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
challenger70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
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Quote:
Quote:
At one point in time I thought Locktite was a emergency/ 1 time use deal. I've been through a couple Locktite courses and it really changed my outlook on the use of locktite. It fills the thread space in the bolt hole, and only cures in absence of air. use high strength Red 277. It will hold, wont loosen on you, and will come out when you want it to.
I've broken off a 3/8 cam bolt by using red locktite Blue is better on some places like cam bolts, header bolts,oil pan bolts, threaded wheel studs and other similar fastener applictaions
I wouldn't be as worried about breaking a 7/16" head bolt as a 3/8"
Thanks for the additional ideas/thoughts
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: challenger70]
#1465244
07/11/13 05:43 PM
07/11/13 05:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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If you install red Loctite correctly you have to heat it to 482 degrees F to get it to release.
Chrysler head bolts are Grade 8, so it will be possible to disassemble even a properly-assembled joint using the Loctite 271 (red)
But, as it sets up in the absence of air, it may mess up your torque readings and as such I wouldn't use it.
R.
Last edited by dogdays; 07/11/13 05:53 PM.
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: Supercuda]
#1465247
07/12/13 11:45 AM
07/12/13 11:45 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
challenger70
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,358
Berwyn, IL
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Quote:
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The only thing that concerns me is that this very bolt came lose, and I have no idea why, could have been not properly torqued by the builder. Would locktite hurt anything other than making bolt removal more difficult in the future? The helicoil idea is tempting too. I don't want to do any unnecessary work but want it fixed right. Thanks for the input.
You know that on a bog block with steel shim head gaskets you have to retorque after first warm up. If not you will probably blow the head gasket between two cylinders. Maybe this is the issue.
I suspect as much too...It was put together bu Jasper in IN and I would not recomend them at all, I was very new to the hobby and the shop handling the work on my car when I first got it 12 years ago went with them. It runs strong but has had other issues too... live and learn.
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Re: Damaged BB Head Bolt Repair
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#1465253
07/17/13 12:32 AM
07/17/13 12:32 AM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,025
Las Vegas, NV
dodgeboy11
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,025
Las Vegas, NV
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Don't use loctite, if the threads are getting ready to pull, the loctite won't help. Based on that bolt turning more than the others on the retorque, I would not trust the hole as is. Here's what I would do if it were me. I'd buy the helicoil kit for that size and a new drill bit for the recommended size. Bolt the head onto the block with the old head gasket. Bolt torque isn't that important, you just want to make sure the head doesn't move. Use the head bolt hole as a guide to drill the hole out to the size needed for the repair. Be careful not to go off center, you don't want to oblong the head bolt hole, it is simply there as a visual to help keep the drill bit straight. If you have an old head that isn't being used, use it. If the heli coil tap will fit through the head bolt hole, you can use the head to visually make sure the tap starts straight. Once it is a few threads in and straight, remove the tap, remove the head and finish threading the hole. At that point, clean the hole out, install the heli coil, on this, you may end up stacking two or getting longer coils and break the tab out of the end. Make sure you don't thread the coil down to the bottom where the threads aren't as deep because when you thread the bolt in, if it goes deep enough it'll catch on the shrunken part of the coil and won't torque properly. You'll want to keep 3-4 threads under the coil to prevent this from happening. It's really quite a simple process and I may have overcomplicated it in my explanation, but this is what I would do if it were mine.
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I hate Murphy 
Luckily it came out fairly easy with a punch driving it out off of the small step left on the twisted off part in the crank 
I finaly remeber to go out in the shop and take a picture of one of Loctite thread repair kits that I have had hanging on the wall for years, maybe that help you 
I used a stock headbolt and it seems to be holding fine. Thanks for your help/input everyone. 
