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Re: still over heating [Re: lifted85] #1462688
07/05/13 06:37 PM
07/05/13 06:37 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
justinp61 Offline
I Live Here
justinp61  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
Quote:

Quote:

How hot did you let it get this last time when you said the radiator was cold?


like 220-250, hose's & radiator should have been hot at that temp I would think? like I said water was boiling by by the intake, will have to look into it more tomorrow.. there is no water in my oil or oil in my water.. I have ran 195s in all my mopar's an yes I made sure it was not up side down the coil spring is still in the hose..




Either the pump is not working or the radiator is plugged, I know you said you flushed it but there is a blockage somewhere.

Have you tried it without a thermostat? I always drill two or three 1/8" holes in my thermostats to help let the air out on the initial start up after changing one out or having to drain the system for any reason.

Re: still over heating [Re: justinp61] #1462689
07/05/13 07:15 PM
07/05/13 07:15 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 683
Northern NJ
68 Sat Offline
mopar
68 Sat  Offline
mopar

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 683
Northern NJ
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the distributor. I changed from a MP unit to a Mallory which allowed me to adjust the advance better. Problem solved. You might want to think outside the box on this one. I spent a bundle on shroud aluminum radiator fan with clutch and in end the distributor solved the problem.


1963 Chrysler 300 Pace Setter Convertible 21K mile survivor 1969 Dodge Coronet 500 1956 Desoto Hemi 1955 Chrysler C300
Re: still over heating [Re: justinp61] #1462690
07/06/13 01:58 AM
07/06/13 01:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 256
libby mt
L
lifted85 Offline OP
enthusiast
lifted85  Offline OP
enthusiast
L

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 256
libby mt
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

How hot did you let it get this last time when you said the radiator was cold?


like 220-250, hose's & radiator should have been hot at that temp I would think? like I said water was boiling by by the intake, will have to look into it more tomorrow.. there is no water in my oil or oil in my water.. I have ran 195s in all my mopar's an yes I made sure it was not up side down the coil spring is still in the hose..




Either the pump is not working or the radiator is plugged, I know you said you flushed it but there is a blockage somewhere.

Have you tried it without a thermostat? I always drill two or three 1/8" holes in my thermostats to help let the air out on the initial start up after changing one out or having to drain the system for any reason.


yep tried it with out 1.. tonight I did a few thing's, fired her up an let idle for a good 15-30 min's an sat at a 210-212, she was not boiling water out or any thing, It did sound like water boiling in the radiator hoses but I think that was just the water going into the intake when I shut te truck off.. 210-212 idling still high?? it's probably 67-71 deg's this evening


drive fast, drive hard, DRIVE MOPAR
Re: still over heating [Re: Golden-Arm] #1462691
07/06/13 05:11 AM
07/06/13 05:11 AM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,930
Tri-Cities, Washington
V
VITC_GTX Offline
master
VITC_GTX  Offline
master
V

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,930
Tri-Cities, Washington
Quote:

do you have an IR temp gun? they're cheap, and can save a lot of guessing. you can point and shoot, getting exact temps from the hoses, heads, intake and even the radiator. several guys have mentioned it, and it's a great investment. i even use mine to look at exhaust temps coming right out of the ports, looking for misfires (colder) or a lean cylinder (hotter). i'd trust a digital IR reading before i'd trust an electric gauge and sending unit.




So of the IR temps shows 200 on the water pump housing right at the sending unit are you saying the water temp should be 200 also?

Re: still over heating [Re: VITC_GTX] #1462692
07/06/13 07:55 PM
07/06/13 07:55 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,570
Sunny South Florida
Golden-Arm Offline
I Live Here
Golden-Arm  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 10,570
Sunny South Florida
not necessarily. you have to measure the temp of the water, on a hose or radiator. the waterpump housing can soak heat from the engine itself, causing the metal to become warmer than the water flowing through it, imo. hit the hose at the waterpump, for a better reading. metal will hold temps longer than water. the waterpump could be warmer, or cooler than the water flowing through it, depending on the circumstances. i'd measure water temp at the closest place i could "see" the water. (open the rad cap, and temp the water right there, for the actual temp) a hose will give a more accurate reading of the water temp, than the waterpump will, again this is imo.


"When Tyranny Becomes Law, Rebellion Becomes Duty"

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