No the cam sensor replaced a while ago is a Borg Warner sensor. The crank sensor that I just replaced is a GP Sorensen part. Both Advance auto parts.

I threw the Auto Shutdown relay in it and it made no difference. I backtraced the crank sensor wires and they seem OK. I even threw the old crank sensor in while the car was still hot thinking the sensors heat up and fail and no change. Its very repeatable now. Once warm it shuts off. Let it cool and starts up fine.

Still getting the P0320 code along with the 1389 and 1391.



I'm thinking my 2 options are swap both the cam and crank sensors with mopar parts or swap out the PCM.

I believe the PCM marries the Anti theft unit or vice versa.

Ive been watching this thread, but theres just not alot of info pointing me in any direction. I doubt theres a problem with the PCM, and I think if you could actually hook it up to a real scan tool and see some data stream info youd be much farther ahead.

I do love those cars, so when you give up, I'll come get it

Just for kicks though, try unplugging the ABS computer, run it, and see if anything changes. The ABS computers have a tendency to go haywire and disturb the other systems ( trans, body, etc...)

years ago, I had a 1995 neon that would do the same thing. shut down when warm, and fire right up after 15 minutes. traded it in after a while. somebody told me that it could have been the sensor for the speedometer, or the vehicle speed sensor.

I did not clean ityet . I can definately do that but why would it only stall when it gets hot and then throw a crank pos sensor code when it dies.

I'll try it anyway just to cover my bases.

I stopped at the dealer, bought a new Mopar cam and crank sensor. Came home, fired the car up, let it get hot and it died and wouldn't start.

So I quickly swapped cam sensors first and voila! fired right up and idled for an hour without a hickup.......

Road test tomorrow but it appears the Advance Auto Bork Warner sensor would get hot, fail and throw a CRANK sensor code!!! That experience will make me buy OE sensors from now on.

Oy!! I hope this is all behind me because I was really ready to drive it into an oak tree.....

Well, today my wife went shopping at lunch. When she got back in the car it was sputtering and surging all the way back to work. She didn't think she was going to make it.

It throws codes P1684 (battery disconnected within 50 starts) & P1391 (Intermittant crank or cam pos signal). This is with a Mopar cam and crank sensor not even a week old.....

I'll probably get laughed off the board for this, but, did you try a spare ignition key? Maybe it's possible the theft chip in the key might be on the blink.

I would check reference voltages at sensors and sensor grounds and signal at PCM when problem is occuring. I would scope the signals and be looking for a damaged tone wheel(flexplate) or damaged/contaminated tone wheel/pulse ring on camshaft. my

Anybody want a mechanics special???

Check your engine compartment harness connecters working back to the PCM. I know my Daytona IROC R/T had wiring issues like that when I got it so I uncoupled and cleaned all the connectors. Check that the harness didn't get chafed and is grounding from when you did the engine swap. If that doesn't get it you'll probably need to hook up a scan tool and datalog the cam and crank sensors to find which one is dropping out and trace the wiring back to the PCM. Check the resistance of the circuit from end to end, even try jiggling the harness to make sure the connection doesn't break. If all tests good it's new PCM time.

It's simply a process of eliminaton to work your way back through the cam and crank circuit from the sensors to the PCM.

Might want to let the wife drive something else until you find the problem though...DAMHIK

Must have missed some info, when did you do the engine swap? When did you do the timing belt?

OK more info. Wife made it home after work (sitting for 4 hours) and it wasn't surging, she said it did feel odd though. When it sat in the driveway for a half hour I came home and drove it and immediately it started bucking. Apparently it is also a heat related issue.

Unlike my previous problems, there is no stalling. It fires up and purrs like a kitten no hiccups at all. Only when you put a load on the engine will it buck and surge. I drove it down the street and if I very very carefully accelerate I can keep it from bucking. Any more and it starts. Its like its dropping spark. Soon as you get off the gas, right back down to a good idle.

I did the swap about 3 months ago. Belt was changed then too. Just plugged the 3.5 harness right into the 2.7 computer and it was running fine up until a cam sensor crapped out which was fixed with a parts store replacement, then I got a crank sensor code which ended up being the cam sensor again.

Everything seems perfect mechanically. It appears to just be an electrical gremelin or perhaps a fuel delivery issue.

More diagnosis.

It only does it when hot.

If I clear the codes and start it, its fine but as soon as I blip the throttle and get it to sputter, the CEL immediately comes on and it throws the P1391 intermittant crank/cam pos
signal.

It bucks and sputters when the throttle is applied in gear or just in park.

On the cam sensor, there *SHOULD* have been a piece of paper over the end of the sensor. It's there to act as a spacer and you place the sensor up against the cam sprocket. Motor turns over and the sprocket wipes the paper off leaving the correct airgap.

At least that's the way it works for me on my OBDI Turbo III motors, I'd figure the newer sensors would be set up the same way. That might be what is causing your code, if the gap isn't right motor gets hot, gap shrinks and may be rubbing the sprocket. Or alternatively could have too much gap for whatever reason.

Whatever it is, if it's throwing a cam/crank sensor code the PCM doesn't like something it's seeing there.

ETA: You might want to put the old Mopar crank sensor back in to eliminate one variable while working with the cam sensor and see if that makes a difference.

Yup paper spacer was present and sensor was installed correctly.

I checked the supply voltage at the sensor. Cold when running well and hot when it was stumbling. Its supposed to be 8V but is reading 8.8V. Either way its doesn't change between the two scenarios.

I'm starting to wonder if there is another sensor that shares the same power and ground that might be failing when hot and making "noise" screwing up the position sensor signals.

Sounds like you're gonna need to datalog it to find out what's going on.