Re: 4 link setups
[Re: Dragula]
#1430982
05/08/13 09:07 AM
05/08/13 09:07 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 26 US
BBD150
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A 4 bar system closely resembles a 4 link but is much more street friendly. Either way your going to have the replace the underbed gas tank with a fuel cell to make room unless you have a in cab tank.. . http://artmorrison.com/rearsusp-kits.php
i plan on putting a fuel cell in it. so all that space is free. so is there any disadvantages to competition engineering parts? im debating between these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-15-0017/overview/ http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition+Engineering/247/2006/10002/-1
or the street kit from artmorrison which runs about $720
if i order the CE kits i will weld most of it together.
Yes you will need a fuel cell... stock tank will not fit...
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The so called street kits have 60' times all over the board in something that leaves hard Urethane is not as stiff as a hiem joint
How fast do you want to go? & how much street driving are you going to do?
I can tell you from past experience if you ride hiems on the street & you don't grease them regular your next launch may be into the next lane
You can run 10's with leaf springs cheap & lower it till the frame sits on the ground
X2 And I agree with that...Mine are solid mounted Heims, not poly. Just WD40them once in a while and keep an eye out for excessive wear...
im going to do lots more street driving then racing with it. but im eliminating the leafs. as ive said before the current set is junk. right now im interested in how good the CE stuff is. or a recommendation of another brand.
dragula: i like how you hid the fuel cell, and i was thinking about that last night.what do you have on the bottom side of the tank to protect it from road hazzards?
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: BBD150]
#1430983
05/08/13 10:51 AM
05/08/13 10:51 AM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,418 Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
Dragula
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
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im going to do lots more street driving then racing with it. but im eliminating the leafs. as ive said before the current set is junk. right now im interested in how good the CE stuff is. or a recommendation of another brand.
dragula: i like how you hid the fuel cell, and i was thinking about that last night.what do you have on the bottom side of the tank to protect it from road hazzards?
Its .110" thick aluminum. If that gets punctured, I am sure other stuff is worse off...I put over 2000 miles on my truck last summer alone...Its a driver. Turn the key and go, and it has OD...
Last edited by Dragula; 05/08/13 10:52 AM.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: Dragula]
#1430984
05/09/13 12:40 AM
05/09/13 12:40 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 26 US
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im going to do lots more street driving then racing with it. but im eliminating the leafs. as ive said before the current set is junk. right now im interested in how good the CE stuff is. or a recommendation of another brand.
dragula: i like how you hid the fuel cell, and i was thinking about that last night.what do you have on the bottom side of the tank to protect it from road hazzards?
Its .110" thick aluminum. If that gets punctured, I am sure other stuff is worse off...I put over 2000 miles on my truck last summer alone...Its a driver. Turn the key and go, and it has OD...
ok. i think ive seen a few pictures of how you mounted it. i might box mine in with sheetmetal back there just to give it some extra protection. i plan on gutting the bed and putting new sheet metal in. i have just been trying to figure out where to put the fuel cell so that its easy to get to at a pump. i plan on driving mine alot too. mostly to car shows though.
im still deciding on which ladder bar and coil over kits to go with.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: Dragula]
#1430986
05/09/13 10:58 AM
05/09/13 10:58 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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In order to drag race it NHRA requires the cell to be protected in the front, sides and bottom to be legal to go down the track..
I am truckless..
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: BulletBob]
#1430990
05/12/13 03:02 AM
05/12/13 03:02 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 26 US
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I use Mopar Performance perches $12.00 or so a set
I relocate the E brake cables when I flip When you flip you get at least 5 if not 5 1/2" of drop that bracket is the last thing in what I call the dragline zone It also relieves stress on the cables
Here's a pic of that bracket relocated
so cut off the old and weld on the new then?
also the ebrake stuff is getting cut off. cable is froze and i cant think of a time when ill ever need it.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: BulletBob]
#1430991
05/12/13 12:24 PM
05/12/13 12:24 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
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Graham, WA
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BulletBob, I am glad you brought up the e-brake relocation. I saved all the hardware when I pulled the 8.25 and since I am using the Ford Racing Drum Brake kit with the Dana 60, I will be able to easily mate the Dodge cables to the Ford e-brake lever. I am a believer in e-brakes. When I am trailering the Ramcharger the shifter will be in park, the e-brake set and the truck will be strapped or chained to the trailer. Taking off the e-brake mechanism saves only a few pounds and gives up your last option in an emergency. Not worth it!!!
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: BBD150]
#1430992
05/12/13 01:52 PM
05/12/13 01:52 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,064 Iowa
76dodgeboy
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so cut off the old and weld on the new then?.
You answered your own question. If the old is being Cut off that means it was welded.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: 340SHORTY]
#1430994
05/12/13 11:31 PM
05/12/13 11:31 PM
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with the work you need to do to get it on the road, its faster to do the ladder bars now.
i have to change all the front suspension over. fix the rear suspension. clean and paint the frame, which might need some spots repaired. not sure of condition yet. get and install a fuel cell. pull out the v6 in it and drop in the big block and auto. i was planning on getting a d60 for it if i can find one reasonable. i want to keep the stock lug pattern which i believe is 4.5x5. then some wiring work and body work and painted by the end of july.
i have my work cut out for me. but a couple weekends i should have the majority of the suspension work done and the motor and trans sat in.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: 76dodgeboy]
#1430996
05/15/13 11:54 PM
05/15/13 11:54 PM
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If it has a V6 the bolt pattern is 5x5.5" Same as Ford truck. 84 was last yr for 4.5" bp. You can swap it to 4.5 just by swapping to 80-84 Rotors and if your swapping out the rear for a car D60 its already 4.5. Might be cheaper to get a truck D60 and have the ends cut and the car ends installed and new axles. Car ones seem to ne $700+ when you can get a tuck one for as little as $150 than $300 for new axles with green bearings from Doctor Diff and maybe $150 for car ends to be installed
thats actually good info to keep in mind. i want to go to a 4.5 bolt pattern because i feel like ill have a wider access to rims. i have a d60 housing. who would i send it to to have it converted to a car?
id eventually like to get a set of 33 inch slicks under it that actually fit in the fender wells. so id imagine that a car 60 with a set of offset rims would be my best bet.
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: 76dodgeboy]
#1430998
05/16/13 11:31 AM
05/16/13 11:31 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
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You will never get 33s insyde the fenders without tubing and frame work..
I am truckless..
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Re: 4 link setups
[Re: 340SHORTY]
#1431000
05/16/13 10:23 PM
05/16/13 10:23 PM
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You will never get 33s insyde the fenders without tubing and frame work..
well aware of having to tub it. im already going to be cutting into the bed for the fuel cell and battery tray.
and bob, i would like to see some more pictures of that axle housing. that thing looks quite beefy.
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