sorry to hear about the oil problem, I hope it is not something serious

Anyway, to respond to the original question, yes I do think that is too cool. You want a 180 thermo (if you're not running a thermo, get one in there) and you'd like to see the average temps actually hanging around there. Better oil performance, probably better fuel atomization, drivability, and everything. a cold engine will harm cylinder lubrication and foul the oil quickly

if you have too much radiator in the cold weather, consider blocking a large part of it off like they do with big rigs

Hey guys i know its been a while like i said it would be , Been putting in to many hours at work.
But i just wanted every one to know how things turned out , the car has been back up and running for 2 weeks .
The problem i have been chasing since last summer was caused by the Teflon hard plastic valve seals i had on my heads.
I was unaware that those were bad for street engines and they started wearing out the guides some have 6 to 8 thou clearance .
so the new seals are a temporary fix i know but the car is not smoking now and seams to have more power .
I also changed the springs because i found the the springs i had were dangerously close to coil bind like less the .060 thou.
My plan is to run it this summer and get fresh valve job in winter to correct the guide wear caused by 5 summers of driving on occasion with those dam Teflon seals.
I just don't under stand why the head manufacture would even put those things on in the first place ?
They trying to save money ? leave them off less damage would have resulted!
Drag motors don't need them if the guides are set up right at least not on exhaust side.
Anyway lesson learned Rubber or Viton for street and drag None and
never Teflon again!

Great, I just bought a set of these and was thinking, why not just spend 10 bucks more for the viton seals, well Comp says to run these. Another 20 bucks down the drain, in addition to the 20 I spent on the valve spring shims I bought from Comp that are what they recommended and WRONG

I can add that I've learned that you need valve covers with at least as good of baffling as stockers and then utilize a pcv with a Steeda oil separator inline between the pcv and vacuum source. I'm gonna epoxy some plate under my valve covers for baffling and do just that. Also for the breather a filtered catch can plumbed from the opposite valve cover is a good idea for when the engine is ran hard so that pressure can be vented without oil as well.