Is it true that the factory used the same inboard seat track for both the driver and passenger side by just flipping one to work on the other side with the outboard track. I realize this is a topic that has been posted about many times in the past, but I wanted to share some observations about the seat tracks in my '70 Challenger. After I removed the interior about 2 weeks ago, I disassembled the seats to improve on some poor decisions that were made by the previous owner. When I turned over the seat bottoms, I observed that the "inboard" seat tracks were the same on both driver and passenger sides, but that one was just flipped 180 degrees. I suspected that the prior owner didn't have a correct driver/passenger set, so they improvised and used either 2 driver, or 2 passenger inboard seat tracks. I also saw that they had drilled multiple holes in the floor pan for the inboard track. In addition, they had cut the track studs (that go through the floor pan) shorter because they were too long. Too long because they didn't install the "spacers" between the seat track and the floor pan. Also, they didn't use the correct hardware to mount the seat tracks to the floor pan. I decided that I would buy new repro tracks, but after further research, I realized that maybe I was wrong about the inboards. After looking at a photo of another member's '71 Challenger front bucket seats, and talking to a well informed individual, I was settled into believing that the factory did use the same inboard track on both sides. I decided to dismiss my idea to get a new repros, and would just replace the cut studs with proper length carriage style bolts. Thanks in advance for your feedback.

The following two photos are of my driver side (1st) and passenger side (2nd) floor pans (lighted from underneath, with no flash to better show the holes).





This next photo is the other member's seats from a '71 Challenger.



My seat bottoms (passenger left, driver right).



My passenger seat bottom.



My driver seat bottom.



Repop Seat Tracks (that everyone sells for ~ $350.00 for the complete set)

If no-one else has replied I will look at mine tonight. They are off the seats, I just finished restoring them last weekend. They are 71 but I assume there was no change....

OK, checked mine and no they are not the same - RH & LH are different (mirror image)

Yes, will try to do that tonight.....

Can anyone else share some knowledge on this?

OK, had another look and did take pics though run out of time to post tonight.....but the bottom line is as I said they definitely different parts. They are not actually true mirror image, I think they do probably use the same components but they are riveted the other way on the pass side to the drivers due to the taper front to back....
The part numbers are 70268 on one side and 70355on the other. In all cases I'm talking just about the inner tracks (closest to the trans tunnel).

I have never seen the spacers used on a 70 or 71 that had bucket seats .

Just to document what I said earlier (and what it sounds like you have also found) here is the definitive pic showing the difference between the two sides...they both use the same bracket with the studs (the bottom piece out of three, though upside down in this pic) but the bottom rail (middle piece) is oriented the other way.

Re cleaning an assembled track - I disassembled mine so can't help you on that.

As far as cleaning, get some Castrol Super Clean & soak them good, then soak them again... Then release the lock & slide them back & forth while soaking them some more... Wear rubber gloves cause the Super Clean will eat your flesh.... Not really but it sure does many it feel weird.. Finally flush the tracks with water & see if they are done or if you want to do some more cleaning.. After getting all the grease of a trip to the blast cabinet then blow them off with air & another water flush & more air.. Finally paint & then some lube....

I thought I'd post about my procedure for removing the studs on my inboard seat tracks (they had been cut by the previous owner, and I need/want to replace them with proper lengths). With the track clamped to the workbench, I used a rotary tool for: (1) cutting off the remainder of the stud as flush as I could; (2) for grinding down the remaining swaged square neck; (3) for cutting across the flat head of the stud. Next, I drilled through the center of the stud with a 1/4" bit. Then I used a center punch and hammer at each of the 4 corners. It took a few mild-medium strength poundings at each corner to get them out, but at least I didn't have pound the crap out of it (risking damage, or distorting the track). Finding something that will be close enough to the original studs is proving to be challenging. Certainly, nothing close is available at the typical hardware stores. I have found some possibilities online (links attached).

http://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/Gra...=1#.UTQc7esjppH
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bolt-51...CFad_QgodkWcA_g
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0155067

I don't think I'll find something with the correct size square neck. I would need something with a neck that is ~ 0.360wide x 0.090 high. Standard carriage bolts have a much higher neck, but there are some available with a "short" neck. Although even the short neck options are not as short as the original stud's neck. I plan on using "push-on" retainer nuts to hold the carriage bolts in place. Of couse, once the seat mounting nuts are tightened, the carriage bolts won't budge

I am also searching online for the bolts that are used to attach the tracks to the seat frames (5/16-18x3/4 with a 7/16" hex head). These are also not readily found at hardware stores because of the fact that a 5/16" bolt with a 7/16" hex head is not common. Commonly, a hex bolt with a 5/16" thread shaft has a 1/2" head. A 1/2" socket is very difficult to get inside the track's channel to install/remove this size bolt. I have found something online that I could use (link attached). They are Grade 5 header bolts.

http://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/39943/976?gclid=CJXJo8Cg4LUCFSHZQgodzBIAuw

That's about it for now. I'll post again once I receive the hardware. For now, I just need advice on cleaning/lubing the tracks (i.e. What's the easiest/best way to get these clean for re-lubing?) I don't need to bead blast them or anything like that. I just need to get the gunk out and re-lube. I'd rather not have to disassemble them if I don't have to. Also, what's the best lube to use, and best method for lubing? Thanks for your help.

I've been known to salvage bolts off other seat tracks...

OK, I still can't seem to figure out how to disassemble these seat tracks for cleaning/re-lubing. I've attached close-up photos of my tracks for reference. There doesn't appear to be anything to "bend" in order to separate the two pieces. The "stop" is a stud that is compressed/swaged in place. This must have been done after the internals (bearings/clips/rollers) were installed. Am I missing something? I don't think so. Thanks.

Can anyone share any info on how and/or if the seat tracks can be disassembled for cleaning? As best as I can tell, they can't be. But then, I could be overlooking something. If disassembly is not necessary to perform a thorough cleaning, then that's fine. I'll just try and clean out the old crud without taking them apart. Thanks.

It is a while since I disassembled mine but when I did I was about ready to start knocking mounting studs out as someone had suggested, and someone else said that they just pretty much pull apart. To my surprise that is exactly what they did. I just had to hold the bottom track in the vice and then extend them fully and apart they came. The 30 year old hardened grease needed a little persuading but not much.

The factory did bend up the corner on some of the tracks (they did on mine) and surprisingly to reassemble mine the other week I had to bend (or file) that bit to let the cage back out. So it's possible you would have to do that to disassemble them.

But it's not difficult.

I have heard others say not to bother disassembling as they have a way of cleaning them. I can't speak to that so maybe they will chime in. Since mine needed repainting anyway I went ahead and took 'em apart. I also replaced the ball bearings.

Here is what the insides look like. The trick is to get the track to the limit of extension, then hold the cage to keep it at that end and slide the track back exposing the cage. Then you can take the cage out with roller and bearings, and then the track will right slide off. I think depending on the tolerances this may not even be necessary.
The bent corner I mentioned may stop the track sliding back past the cage assembly, in which case you need to straighten or file it. But again mine disassembled without that being necessary

Here is an example of which corner they turned up (this is after I straightened it back out...)

Glad to help! Countless others have assisted me over the years on this board, so I agree, the board rocks!

I soaked my disassembled seat tracks in degreaser for about 72 hours. Dissolved all the 40+ year hardened grease, and stripped off nearly all the paint. I assume the "entire" track halves should be painted black, but what about the carriages for the rollers/bearings? Should they be painted, and if so, what color and type of paint? I know the bearings don't get paint, but what about the rollers (what color and type of paint, or should they be un-painted)? Thanks.

No paint on rollers or cages.

However......after glass beading them, I had my tracks black zinc plated, (see pic above) cheap, looks great, and no paint to flake off and get in the mechanism.
While I was having parts plated I threw in the cages as mine had gone a bit rusty in situ. Overkill? Definitely...but it was pretty much free.

Thought I'd share an update on my seat-track stud replacement. In an earlier post, I included three links to possible replacements.
The one that worked the best was this: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0155067 (The others were not quite right).

Following are some photos showing one of the replacement studs/bolts in place (temporarily). These have a shorter square neck in comparison to the neck on a standard carriage bolt. They are perfect for the thickness of seat track. These will be loosely secured to the seat track by using 5/16" push nuts. These Grade-5 bolts were inexpensive (as you can see from the last photos of the invoice). I only needed four because only the inboard studs were cut short by the previous owner. Hope this helps others who might need a cheap, but effective solution to replacing their seat track studs.