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I think you have some serious Engine Masters stuff here Mike.

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what are the details on timing?

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These numbers are just amazing. I race a lot with the LSx crowd. I haven't seen any of them making this kind of power short of a big cube LSx motor and aftermarket heads and far bigger cam. Speaking of cams, could you post the specs on it?

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Tom, Steff had LSM grind him a custom camshaft which laid down at 7000 rpm. More importantly I'd like to know what improvements Steff made to the chamber of his 6.1 heads??? Port velocity vs cfm flow
#'s is number 1.

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what are the details on timing?

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Best timing is as follows: 24 degrees from idle to 3000rpm, then drop to 20 degrees the rest of the way out.

It was a toss up between messing with the idle air bleeds and just adding timing to clean up the low rpm curve.

Adding timing was easier and worked great.

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These numbers are just amazing. I race a lot with the LSx crowd. I haven't seen any of them making this kind of power short of a big cube LSx motor and aftermarket heads and far bigger cam. Speaking of cams, could you post the specs on it?

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Tom, Steff had LSM grind him a custom camshaft which laid down at 7000 rpm. More importantly I'd like to know what improvements Steff made to the chamber of his 6.1 heads??? Port velocity vs cfm flow
#'s is number 1.

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Jerry, I couldn't tell you anything about the chamber other than after the engine blowed up at MMW 2011, Jeff welded the chambers up to fix the damage, eliminated those recessed pads the 6.1's had. The chamber now looks like the Eagles and Apaches. He installed new seats, guides, re-CNC'd the chambers due to all the welding, installed bigger 2.100 and 1.62 S/S valves. I then had the heads cut to get chambers to 67cc's. Before cutting, they were 73cc's. I don't even think they were re-flowed with the new larger valves. I guess they are what they are.

Cam from LSM was totally their call. I told them what characteristics etc.. I wanted and they made what they thought would do it.

244/250, 112 in at 108, .400 lobe.

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Sweet info Steff Kinda figured your cam was in the 240ish range.

After welding up my quench pads on my 5.7 heads and using Ferrea 2.08"/1.62" valves I ended up with a 82cc chamber. I only picked up 2cc from the stock chamber that use 2.00"/1.55" valves, however reduced my quench by .050".

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Looking sweet Steff. However from your pic's your exhaust rockershaft is 180* off, meaning it's upside down. Really not as important on the exhaust side vs the intake side cause at max lift on the intake side, shoots oil to the rocker arm/valve stem tip. Make sure the notch at the end of the rockershafts points downwards.

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You have me stumped Jerry. I have two of my old rocker shaft assemblies, one intake shaft and one exhaust shaft that are untouched and both shafts are notch up.

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I was told by another trusted G3 engine builder that I needed to restrick the oil going to the heads. Turning the rockershaft's 180* was a cheap option. Your thought's?

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So now we have data on 3 recent gen 3 builds: Steff,340 rick, and Mopar Muscle. All three of them are north of 700HP. All run on pump gas. It would be interesting to compare the three. It seems like Steff's hemi had the best induction and compression of the three, but the smallest cubes. I'm not sure on the cams.
IMO, I think these motors are going to knock the LS motors off the pedestal as the finest factory based push rod performance motor ever produced. I also think there are going to be some real bargains on 340,360 and 440 stuff.

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When I sold my B/RB stuff for Hemi, I felt like I was getting away with murder. They thought I was crazy for getting rid of old stuff, and I thought they were crazy for taking it.

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So now we have data on 3 recent gen 3 builds: Steff,340 rick, and Mopar Muscle. All three of them are north of 700HP. All run on pump gas. It would be interesting to compare the three. It seems like Steff's hemi had the best induction and compression of the three, but the smallest cubes. I'm not sure on the cams.
IMO, I think these motors are going to knock the LS motors off the pedestal as the finest factory based push rod performance motor ever produced. I also think there are going to be some real bargains on 340,360 and 440 stuff.

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I would like to have seen what the G3 BES engine would have made above 6500 rpm. All the engines in that challenge were restricted to 6500 max rpm. BTW, BES also took the 2nd place award with their Chevy motor.

IIRC Tom, your Magnum motor twisted up some impressive number's.

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Jerry,

I don't like the idea of flipping the shafts for the reason Jerry explained, the hole on the bottom of the shaft provides the oil bearing for the rocker where the load is on the pivot. And then the two holes for lifter feed should stay where they need to be, which coincides with the feed in the rocker arm and it's pivot rotation. I don't really want to restrict the oil to the lifters in fear of them not staying pumped. Unless you shim them, then it most likely dont matter. Maybe tap the oil feed holes in the block. and insert a couple set screws with small holes in them, if you want to restrict the oil to the heads.

Personally, the oil in the heads don't bother me. My oil pan holds 12 qts and then the filter and lines. I will never run out of oil for the lower end if too much ends up in the heads. When I did take the valve covers off to inspect the valvetrain during the dyno sessions, there wasn't much oil resting in the heads. The drains appear to be very efficient.

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Thanks Steff and Jerry. Now you have me second guessing myself. lol I know from experience the exhaust valve spring is flooded with oil. Also my rocker tips and intake valve stem tips still look like new after 7 years with 4000 street miles and over 400 passes. BTW, I'm also on my 4th set of valve springs. I change them out just to be on the safe side. I'm not too worried about the amount of oil getting to the fulcrum point of the intake rocker tip and valve, but now you guy's have me thinking of how much oil is getting to the intake valve spring??? Guess I'm going into my motor again and twist the rockershaft's 180 for cheap insurance.

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what are the details on timing?

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Best timing is as follows: 24 degrees from idle to 3000rpm, then drop to 20 degrees the rest of the way out.

It was a toss up between messing with the idle air bleeds and just adding timing to clean up the low rpm curve.

Adding timing was easier and worked great.

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what are the details on timing?

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Best timing is as follows: 24 degrees from idle to 3000rpm, then drop to 20 degrees the rest of the way out.

It was a toss up between messing with the idle air bleeds and just adding timing to clean up the low rpm curve.

Adding timing was easier and worked great.

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Steff....are you saying you set the timing at 24 locked in from idle to 3000?

Any cooling or cranking issues with that much timing at static?

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Very good power! I hate the front cover of these Hemi's and would love to see somebody cast a new cover just for a water pump and an alternator with the option of a power steering pump mount.

I just hope our build makes decent power! Thanks for sharing Steff!!
Brian

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