I am shopping around for a radiator for my '74 Duster. I have swapped in a 440/727. I know these engines like to get hot, We have battled our 383 Cuda off and on for years.

I am shopping around trying to do somehome work and figure out what works and what dosen't. A friend of mine is running a aluminum radiator with out a transcooler built in to it. His transcooler bolted up in front of his radiator. I was wondering which was the better way to go? To get a radiator like this griffin (5-573GF-BAX)which has the transcooler built in:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...mp;autoview=sku

Or track down one that does not have a transcooler built in to it and add a dedicated transcooler in front of it.

Its not going to be a race only car, it will probably only see the track once or twice. It will mostly driven on the street, and my goal is to be able to drive it when it is cooking hot ourside and when it is freezing cold. In that instance I was wondering if haveing a dedicated transcooler in front of the radiator would cause any problems with it in cold weather situations.

I'm running a becool rad W/ trans cooler in the rad and an external also. Fluid comes from the trans into rad then into external cooler then back to the trans. 71 cuda 440/727 with reverse manual valve body. can never be too cool right? External cooler is attached to the vertical core support to space it away from the rad to help air flow.

That is the same way we have our 383 Cuda set up. Seems to work ok so far.

Thanks for the reply.

I don't like the "cooler" (2 foot loop of tubing) in the radiator at all.

I prefer a separate trans cooler and that's it.

With the cooler loop in the radiator...
If the motor overheats, so does the trans.
If the cooler line ruptures 1. you can't see it 2. but you will feel it, when the trans is filled with anti freeze which does wonders for friction materials.

Yes I know the OEMs don't do it that way, but the OEM's haven't run around on the street for 15 summers with 4000+ stall speed

If you plumb the trans back into the rad, it raises the temp of your coolant somewhat when the trans reaches full operating temp. So, if you choose to do this, don't buy a cheap Howe rad, or go to a refurbished stocker,get a BeCool rated for your intended HP or more.

If you limit your system with the lack of a shroud or smaller size rad to fit a small block opening, or under drive pully's etc, you need to increase the effeciency of the rad to compensate. Same with plumbing it with a trans cooler. Its an added stress on the cooling system, so plan it all out ahead. Mine typically brings engine tempup from 175 to 185 on a hot day when the trans reaches temp...