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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: Commando1]
#1374217
01/24/13 01:12 PM
01/24/13 01:12 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,118
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,118
Valencia, España
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Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks. 
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1374218
01/24/13 02:18 PM
01/24/13 02:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,324
A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,324
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks.
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
If I am looking at it right that piece at the bottom has to be like that to make the part expand out to the size of the bore .
This is why only a trained professional should be using one ...
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: JohnRR]
#1374219
01/24/13 02:25 PM
01/24/13 02:25 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,118
Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,118
Valencia, España
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I, ummm... appreciate the responses, guys. Thanks.
I'm talking about the reamer posted by Challenger1, which has a rubber shoe on bottom of the cutter what sets it to be angled like this / ... MAYBE ANOTHER KIND OF REAMER, able to make the cut totally vertical won't get you in troubles, and will need just to hone after the cut.
IMHO my mistake was on buy and use THAT reamer, at least without take care of the shoe. Maybe if I was removed the shoe, story was to be diff.
If I am looking at it right that piece at the bottom has to be like that to make the part expand out to the size of the bore .
This is why only a trained professional should be using one ...
TOTALLY TRUE! LOL
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: NachoRT74]
#1374220
01/24/13 02:50 PM
01/24/13 02:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,568
God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,568
God's Country Maryland
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Here's a pic of the one I've used since 1977. I actually bought it from JC Whitney, mail order. It's a KH 209 model.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: 360view]
#1374223
01/25/13 11:13 PM
01/25/13 11:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,982
North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,982
North Dakota
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I'd be scared to try to remove a ridge with a rotary stone/bit/abrasive wheel, whatever. To maintain the tolerance you need for eight bores? Without botching one up? I'd go back to the reamer. The mistake I see people make with a ridge reamer is they turn it with a ratchet or a breaker bar. This imposes a side load on the tool and just makes it harder to maintain alignment with the bore. I get above the block (use a small step stool) and use a T-handle for the reamer so everything stays aligned. Just my 
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: 360view]
#1374224
01/26/13 12:13 AM
01/26/13 12:13 AM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
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Quote:
Step by step,
how would be the best way
to use a rotary tool
to remove a ridge,
and what would be the ideal
flap or grinding wheel
to use in the tool?
Should one try to totally remove the ridge,
or just remove emough material to allow the piston rings to compress and pass over a reduced ridge?
Should one strive to keep
the centerline of the rotary tool parallel to the line of the bore, or should the rotary tool be held at an angle
to grind the original ridge
into a shallow ramp shape?
Since saving the block from damage
that forces an overbore is much desired,
At what level of material removal
should one stop for safety's sake?
Perhaps a shim of a few thousandths thickness
could be held just below the ridge
to keep the rotary tool wheel from accidently
cutting too deep
or too far down?
Your joking right ?  The ridge reamer tool is the only way to do it, other than taking the block to the machine shop. The questions you have asked and if your block needs work done to it you had better have someone else do it. JMO
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: Ridge Reamers
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1374225
01/31/13 06:42 AM
01/31/13 06:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,196
Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
5thAve
Doesn't care what this says anyway
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Doesn't care what this says anyway
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,196
Canada -- Posts: 4034 -Registe...
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Quote:
Here's a pic of the one I've used since 1977. I actually bought it from JC Whitney, mail order. It's a KH 209 model.
That's the kind I'm familiar with.
If you screwed up an engine with a ridge reamer either it already had issues or you didn't do it right. Either way it's not the tools fault.
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