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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: 451Mopar]
#1371029
01/18/13 06:35 PM
01/18/13 06:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
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Quote:
The stroker kits are pretty much all the same cost, and stronger than stock cranks and rods.
For what your doing, the 511 (4.25" stroke) stroker kit with 24cc dished pistons and Edelbrock RPM (84cc) heads, with zero deck and 0.040" head gasket results in 9.88:1 compression. The dish on the pistons still leaves a good quench area, and the compression is good for pump gas with the cams you will be looking at (likely in the 240 @ 0.050" range.) Maybe Comp XE285HL? for good low/midrange power, good for a daily driver, but should have a noticable idle, but not choppy like a race cam.
Thanks guys, so is it the dish of the piston that determines quench and compression? Which kits do you guys recommend? Been looking at the muscle motors kits, haven't heard anything bad about them, the 440source kits have mixed opinions
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: dangina]
#1371030
01/19/13 03:05 AM
01/19/13 03:05 AM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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Quote:
Thanks guys, so is it the dish of the piston that determines quench and compression? Which kits do you guys recommend? Been looking at the muscle motors kits, haven't heard anything bad about them, the 440source kits have mixed opinions
I just looked up the 440 source kit, you can choose whichever company your comfortable with. The pistons are dished to reduce compression (a flat top would have about 11.5:1 compression), but the way the dish portion is done leaves about 1/3 of the piston at zero deck at TDC. That part of the piston matches up to the flat part of the closed chamber cylinder heads to create the quench. Having an engine with the quench helps prevent detonation (pinging.)
My first 451 stroker short block was from Muscle motors, bought it around 1993 and never has a problem with it. Chuck Senatore was really nice and helpful, spent plenty of time on the phone explaining different options and the build for what I wanted.
Their web site is not very informative on what comes with the stroker kit, so I guess you would need to call for more info.
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: dangina]
#1371031
01/19/13 03:06 AM
01/19/13 03:06 AM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
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see if I understand correctly, if you get the biggest cubic inches possible you can run a lower compression piston, still giving you the torque you want but able to run it on pump gas. Whereas if you wanted to do the same with a smaller cubic inch motor you gotta have more compression to get the same results.
also about quench, what is it and why is it good to have?*edit* i read why this is good - great article here on the site!
Last edited by dangina; 01/19/13 03:15 AM.
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: Twostick]
#1371033
01/19/13 08:37 AM
01/19/13 08:37 AM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
72Swinger
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
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My next engine is gonna be a 512 for the same reasons noted here. There is something sweet about adding 112 ci to a 400 block.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: dangina]
#1371039
01/20/13 11:32 PM
01/20/13 11:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,826
las vegas
70AARcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,826
las vegas
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wrong thread.....
Last edited by 70AARcuda; 01/20/13 11:40 PM.
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: dangina]
#1371040
01/20/13 11:37 PM
01/20/13 11:37 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
thanks guys! looks like a no-brainer, I'll be picking up the 511 kit, is there something else I should buy like engine girdles? As for cams should I get a custom grind for what i want? Are roller rockers and lifters worth the extra money? Whats the most important thing to look for in a cam valve lift? also what ratio should I get for the street? 1.5? 1.6? thanks again 
If you can find out where your heads make the most flow use that in determing the lift, within reason, of the cam you choose. I'm from the old school, make the cam as big as possible   Honestly, if my heads make the most flow at .600 lift on both valves(theaoritically speaking now) I would probally try to open the valves around .050 or a little more than .600 so I get the most from the valves at max lift  I like to use bigger ratio rockers to help achieve more effective flow and lift Make sure the pushrods clear everything also, same thing on the retainers to valve seals, coil bind and so on  The solid roller cams will make more power as they allow more air in qucker, usually, if there a good cam As far as a girdle I don't like them   Maybe spend that money on a good set of after market main caps, prefferably two bolt alumium main caps and use a good set of main studs Dude, it sounds to me like you want way to much power and have to much fun    I do to 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: help me build a engine!
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#1371041
01/22/13 01:43 AM
01/22/13 01:43 AM
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
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Quote:
Quote:
thanks guys! looks like a no-brainer, I'll be picking up the 511 kit, is there something else I should buy like engine girdles? As for cams should I get a custom grind for what i want? Are roller rockers and lifters worth the extra money? Whats the most important thing to look for in a cam valve lift? also what ratio should I get for the street? 1.5? 1.6? thanks again
If you can find out where your heads make the most flow use that in determing the lift, within reason, of the cam you choose. I'm from the old school, make the cam as big as possible Honestly, if my heads make the most flow at .600 lift on both valves(theaoritically speaking now) I would probally try to open the valves around .050 or a little more than .600 so I get the most from the valves at max lift I like to use bigger ratio rockers to help achieve more effective flow and lift Make sure the pushrods clear everything also, same thing on the retainers to valve seals, coil bind and so on The solid roller cams will make more power as they allow more air in qucker, usually, if there a good cam As far as a girdle I don't like them Maybe spend that money on a good set of after market main caps, prefferably two bolt alumium main caps and use a good set of main studs Dude, it sounds to me like you want way to much power and have to much fun I do to
Thanks for the good advice - I'll be coming back to this thread for references - I wasn't sure of how they determined lift. Looks like I'll be buying the Eddy performer rpm's, seems to have the best response from other members
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I would, if you can afford it, buy the good Harland Sharp full roller aluminum rocker arms, not the cheaper extruded aluminum non roller shaft ones they now offer 