Re: Can someone explain...(I'm an idiot)
[Re: Sssnake383]
#136277
10/14/08 04:51 PM
10/14/08 04:51 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,761
Andrewh
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,761
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Quote:
Thank you, Andrewh. I do appreciate your help. I may need your guidance again when I go to install my Pertronix kit. Do you retain the ballast resistor when you install the Pertronix? Or do you bypass it entirely? Perhaps break out the ceramic resistance wire and then wire it terminal-to-terminal to keep the OE look, such as a previous poster did?
Unless you buy their coil or a 12 volt coil, you need to keep the ballast resistor. It is needed for the coil. You just run 12 volts to the petronix though "bypassing" the ballast.
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Re: Can someone explain...(I'm an idiot)
[Re: Sssnake383]
#136278
10/14/08 04:51 PM
10/14/08 04:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,759 So Cal
HealthServices
Why would you even post that?
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Why would you even post that?
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,759
So Cal
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The absolute best way to set point gap is with a dwell meter. Using a feeler gauge is just a guide.
Dwell meters used to be really cheap like less than $30. But now with electronic systems around not many cars driving have them so stores don't really have a need to stock them.
Points systems work They have worked for years but there is maintenance with them.
Are you trying to just get the car started or change over to a new system?
Allen
Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first.
Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
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Re: Can someone explain...(I'm an idiot)
[Re: Sssnake383]
#136279
10/14/08 04:55 PM
10/14/08 04:55 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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if you gut the balist res and just use the shell,it would be best to solder the ends on the #10 stranded wire to make a good connection since this is an old cast iron duel point dist I would pull it and see if it has side to side movment if it does it will need rebuilt,the shaft wobble is common but like said not the rule when trouble shooting and you may check into finding a diff dist and go to single points,then pertronix pertronix may have a duel pick up conversion also so check with them or a dealer good luck and update us when you find your problem
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Re: Can someone explain...(I'm an idiot)
[Re: Sssnake383]
#136282
10/20/08 11:43 AM
10/20/08 11:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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Just for future use...
To answer how they work.. All inductive ignition coil ignition systems work this way:
You have a primary side, consisting of battery, ignition switch, ballast, coil, points, and condensor; and a secondary side consisting of the coil, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plugs. The battery supplies the power. The ballast lowers the power down so the coil and points themselves do not overheat and be damaged. The power comes into the coil on it's positive side from the ballast/battery, and energizes a set of windings in it. The points connect the primary windings in the coil to the ground side. As the rubbing block spins, the corners force the points open, which breaks the circuit. As that circuit is broken, the electrical field in the coil primary windings collapses. There is a second set of windings inside a coil, called the secondary set. As the field collapses around this second set, a huge amount of energy is "induced" into them. They are connected to the coil tower, and the coil wire, and down stream of the distributor cap and rotor are the wires and spark plugs. So the spark of the secondary, is generated by the collapse of the primary. The points control the length of time the primary is closed and the coil primary windings are "charging". This is why if you leave your key on, and the ballast bypassed, the coil gets so hot. Also why MP Gold boxes say "not for street use".. They put a lot of juice the the coil primary windings 100% of the time. The point gap, or more precisely the dwell(the length of time in crank degrees), is the amount of time the secondary has to induce the spark. I use the shortest dwell spec I can (28°) so the coil has the most time to charge the primary windings. That ".010 gap" usually gives about 32° of dwell.
All inductive ignitions do this in one way or another. If you knwo how points work, you know how MSD, MP, FBO, Accell, Pertronix, Mallory, Jacobs, and anyone I missed ignitions work...
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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