Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358185
12/28/12 10:26 PM
12/28/12 10:26 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
|
dizzys' develop radial play from the point tension & Pertronix wants virtually no play so the plan is to get a rebuilt point dist from AutoZone (it's cheap/exchange) then the Pertronix I or II kit & the Pertronix I or II matching coil. 2 wires from the dist Pertronix conversion to the coil positive/negative primary terminals. Switched 12V to the coil positive primary terminal & that's it!. Gap it with the supplied non metallic gauge. Dont remove the green tape. Dont use solid metallic plug wires. Dont leave the ign key "on" for an extended period of time. iirc you want a cap with brass terminals but I'd check with Scratchn to confirm & maybe more info & he has a suggested plug type that works well. Put the ballast/ECU in the glove box. I'd do one myself if I didn't have more pressing issues to spend my money on but one of these days...
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1358186
12/29/12 12:16 AM
12/29/12 12:16 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177 ill
dennismopar73
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177
ill
|
First question comes to my mind,,, ARE YOU HAVING AN ISSUE WITH WHAT YOU ARE RUNNING NOW? If the answer is no,, then why change ? if the question is yes ,, What are your issues? I for one do not run any ballast on my coils,, not on the street or the strip! I have not lost a coil yet!?? my street car have ran it as long as 10 years, when sold it , it is still running to this day with a stock coil and no ballast. nor an ign box!?
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358187
12/29/12 08:33 AM
12/29/12 08:33 AM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
|
Quote:
sounds good! so what do i need to do, buy an old points distributor and put the petronix kit in it, drop the distributor in the engine and remove the ballast and ecu from the car? will the distributor plug up to the car the same as the electronic one did? seems like i will have to rewire the car..?
with the stock elect dist set up,just swaping the dist out with a points style,the black points wire goes to the -side of coil removing the stock elect -wire from coil.leave elect dist plug undone/taped up. I have to readjust points every 3-6 months to keep it starting with a flick of the key.change them 1x a yr.
going to a pertronix conversion,i just pick up a reman points dist from autozone for 30 bux or so. then the pertronix Ignitor I with a flamethrower 40,000 volt chrome coil-1.5 ohm. install in the dist/set airgap with supplied plastic feeler gauge and drop it in.
red wire to +side of coil with the stock keyed power wire.
black wire to -side of coil plus the green tach wire if you have it.
put a jumper in place of the BR or gut the shell and hide the by-pass so it looks like you still have it.
set timing and forget it. I replace cap.plugs.wires about 3-4 yrs
it has got a hot spark and revs to 15,000 rpm.
I just got a pertronix Ignitor I (kit-MA187) conversion and flamethrower chrome coil for the Mallory duel point dist i got from RapidRobert a while back.(RR- I fried a set of those points trying to set the gap)
on my 88 440 truck I have the ecu uplugged and removed,BR by-passed and just taped up the empty ecu plug and hide behind fender brace.
they are simple to hook up and work flawless. I have never had a reason to try the Ignitor II or III kits or the ready to run dist they sell. I have used 15-20 ignitor I and chrome coils fixing a lot of 5th aves/mopars with elect or points dist for other people when they have ign troubles.
it may cost a few bux to swap it over but the old "let me down" ecu stock elect crap is a thing of the past.
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: dennismopar73]
#1358188
12/29/12 12:22 PM
12/29/12 12:22 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863
middle Tennessee
|
Quote:
First question comes to my mind,,, ARE YOU HAVING AN ISSUE WITH WHAT YOU ARE RUNNING NOW? If the answer is no,, then why change ? if the question is yes ,, What are your issues? I for one do not run any ballast on my coils,, not on the street or the strip! I have not lost a coil yet!?? my street car have ran it as long as 10 years, when sold it , it is still running to this day with a stock coil and no ballast. nor an ign box!?
Kind of, not getting enough voltage to the coil at startup OR run. Makes it hell to start if sets a few days, i will have to bypass the ballast and run a jumper from the + side of coil to + side of battery and another jumper from - side of battery to coil bracket ground, then she will fire up. after that i can unhook all the jumpers and it will start and run, but after its set for a good week or longer, it wont start unless i do this again. Tired of it, i want it to start when i need it to without all this ..
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1358198
01/01/13 08:22 PM
01/01/13 08:22 PM
|
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
|
Quote:
you are aware that you will still need a ballast with points, right?
this is correct. you will also need to use a stock POINTS style coil
but.. to get the dist over the counter you tell the parts monkey you need any yr mopar that would have come stock with points. say..67-71 dodge/plymouth/chrysler A,B,C body.
then you can just drop it in the 440 and hook the black wire to -side of coil,tape up the plug for elect dist,leave keyed hot wire on +side of coil(after swaping for a points style coil),AND the BR in place. I have run lots like this with no trouble,just a tuneup/adjustment every yr.
now going to pertronix points conversion,you have the points dist to install the kit in. FYI- it will have a slightly better spark curve as a bonus over the elect dist.IMO.
now you by-pass the BR with a jumper,install the 40,000 volt pertronix coil, hook red wire along with keyed hot wire to +side of coil. the black wire to -side of coil(with green tach wire if you have it)
follow the directions and use the .030 plastic feeler guage supplied to set the airgap on the Ignitor unit.
it will float the valves before it runs out of spark.
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 01/01/13 08:29 PM.
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: mopower440]
#1358201
01/02/13 07:03 PM
01/02/13 07:03 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154 bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
|
master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
|
Quote:
so no ballast needed with petronix kit right? i wont be running points, only the petronix kit in a points distributor.
i don't know petronix so i will defer to Scratchn on this but the key to what he said boils down to 'not a stock' coil with that combo. a 'stock' coil can not handle a full 12 volts for any length of time. the amount of current causes them to over heat same as a 'stock' ECU.
|
|
|
Re: coil question
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1358202
11/19/13 09:32 PM
11/19/13 09:32 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863
middle Tennessee
|
Been thinking, instead of spending money i dont have on a points distributor and petronix kit, i need to just figure out where the voltage drop is and rewire it. Like i said, if i run a jumper wire from the + side of battery to the coil and another jumper from the - side of battery to the coil bracket, it will fire up after setting for a few weeks, but if i dont do the jumpers and it sits a week or more, it wont start..
Last edited by mopower440; 11/19/13 10:02 PM.
|
|
|
|
|