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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: Wedgeman]
#1352748
12/30/12 10:48 PM
12/30/12 10:48 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Like Bigtime shows is correct... being that the axle centerline is 16" and the front is 12" is ok BUT the ladder bars are lower than the center of the axle... if you set the pinion at zero then measure the drop to the lower bar you will see its lower... you want the bar to angle down in front about 5* on the bottom hole.. that way you can always raise it up... the problem most guys have is they cant get the front of the bar low enough Here is a pic of mine before I put the support bar on the front of it 
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: Wedgeman]
#1352749
12/30/12 10:59 PM
12/30/12 10:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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is the rear axel set at the ride height that you want?? if not then thats the first thing you need to set, then set the ladder bars level to the car and then use the center hole of the front bracket with the holes in a vertical position, you will need to attach the crossmember at that point,,my first attempt at this was with a round tube crossmember and it actually hung below the subframe connector, worked that way for years untill I went to a dana and from 32" bars to 36" S@W's and lowered the car somewhat,I then went to a 2X3 front crossmember with 5 adjusting holes.
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: dartman366]
#1352750
12/30/12 11:47 PM
12/30/12 11:47 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
Wedgeman
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
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Quote:
is the rear axel set at the ride height that you want?? if not then thats the first thing you need to set, then set the ladder bars level to the car and then use the center hole of the front bracket with the holes in a vertical position, you will need to attach the crossmember at that point,,my first attempt at this was with a round tube crossmember and it actually hung below the subframe connector, worked that way for years untill I went to a dana and from 32" bars to 36" [Email]S@W's[/Email] and lowered the car somewhat,I then went to a 2X3 front crossmember with 5 adjusting holes.
Yes the axle is set at ride height, and the bar is leveled to the car.....
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: Wedgeman]
#1352751
12/30/12 11:59 PM
12/30/12 11:59 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
is the rear axel set at the ride height that you want?? if not then thats the first thing you need to set, then set the ladder bars level to the car and then use the center hole of the front bracket with the holes in a vertical position, you will need to attach the crossmember at that point,,my first attempt at this was with a round tube crossmember and it actually hung below the subframe connector, worked that way for years untill I went to a dana and from 32" bars to 36" [Email]S@W's[/Email] and lowered the car somewhat,I then went to a 2X3 front crossmember with 5 adjusting holes.
Yes the axle is set at ride height, and the bar is leveled to the car.....
In what hole... you always want to be able to get
it down in the front... higher the HP the lower the
front of the bar tends to be
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: Wedgeman]
#1352752
12/31/12 12:16 PM
12/31/12 12:16 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,147
Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,147
Byron, NY
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This may make me an A$$ O but stop what you are doing and get some help locally. The advice you have been given so far is spot on but you don’t seem to understand what the ladder bars are trying do much less the physics involved.
I know we all have to learn some time but this is one you need hands on advice.
By today’s standards it is taboo to cut and splice the cross member (especially to clear an exhaust) the ramification of you efforts so far are going to cost you additional $$$ and potentially harm yourself, your car or others.
I do appreciate your desire to do it yourself and aplaud your initiative. But get some local help and do it right.
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60
'01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust,
'05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list
'60 Willys CJ5
'01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison
'64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: W.I.N. Racing]
#1352753
12/31/12 12:43 PM
12/31/12 12:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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Quote:
This may make me an A$$ O but stop what you are doing and get some help locally. The advice you have been given so far is spot on but you don’t seem to understand what the ladder bars are trying do much less the physics involved.
I know we all have to learn some time but this is one you need hands on advice.
By today’s standards it is taboo to cut and splice the cross member (especially to clear an exhaust) the ramification of you efforts so far are going to cost you additional $$$ and potentially harm yourself, your car or others.
I do appreciate your desire to do it yourself and aplaud your initiative. But get some local help and do it right.
I have been watching this post and I have to agree with you,,,while I applaud the op's intentions to do things on hs own I will have to say it's one thing to read a post on a forum than have someone with prior experience give a helping hand in sorting it all out,,,too bad I dont live closer as I would love to help out and get it as right as I know how, if nothing else than to save a lot of aggrivation in the future. 
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
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Re: Ladder bars on A body
[Re: dartman366]
#1352754
12/31/12 04:53 PM
12/31/12 04:53 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
This may make me an A$$ O but stop what you are doing and get some help locally. The advice you have been given so far is spot on but you don’t seem to understand what the ladder bars are trying do much less the physics involved.
I know we all have to learn some time but this is one you need hands on advice.
By today’s standards it is taboo to cut and splice the cross member (especially to clear an exhaust) the ramification of you efforts so far are going to cost you additional $$$ and potentially harm yourself, your car or others.
I do appreciate your desire to do it yourself and aplaud your initiative. But get some local help and do it right.
I have been watching this post and I have to agree with you,,,while I applaud the op's intentions to do things on hs own I will have to say it's one thing to read a post on a forum than have someone with prior experience give a helping hand in sorting it all out,,,too bad I dont live closer as I would love to help out and get it as right as I know how, if nothing else than to save a lot of aggrivation in the future.
I think I'm gonna have to agree here... the way he has
cut the front cross bar he has increases the leverage
arm on the mounting points at the frame rails... you
have to deal with the chassis FIRST then you worry
about little things like the exhaust... NEVER sacrifice
the rigidity of the chassis due to unneeded leverages
that are in a bad way... some things the leverage
helps but not in the places he has it
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