Quote:

---

where are you going to find a 400 steel crank? Anyway I think the general conclusion is pistons are going to be your downfall. Low 12's w/ 3.55's is going to be hard w/ a "mild" 383. I guess you could go with the "standard" MP build. Try and get as close to 10:1 as you can, ported heads, 509 cam (or a better modern grind), headers, Torker II intake, and the usuall upgrades. That should get you into the 12's.

---

Maybe he means a 383 steel crank in a 400

Quote:

---

where are you going to find a 400 steel crank? Anyway I think the general conclusion is pistons are going to be your downfall. Low 12's w/ 3.55's is going to be hard w/ a "mild" 383. I guess you could go with the "standard" MP build. Try and get as close to 10:1 as you can, ported heads, 509 cam (or a better modern grind), headers, Torker II intake, and the usuall upgrades. That should get you into the 12's.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

where are you going to find a 400 steel crank? Anyway I think the general conclusion is pistons are going to be your downfall. Low 12's w/ 3.55's is going to be hard w/ a "mild" 383. I guess you could go with the "standard" MP build. Try and get as close to 10:1 as you can, ported heads, 509 cam (or a better modern grind), headers, Torker II intake, and the usuall upgrades. That should get you into the 12's.

---

Maybe he means a 383 steel crank in a 400

---

Quote:

---

Find a good 400 block. If it will bore to 4.375, great. The extra cubes help. The minimum on heads is to have a competition three angle valve job done and have the bowls blended. A solid cam will allow you the rpm to make decent power where a hydraulic with enough duration to get into some serious power may actually hold you back. I have seen them fall off drastically as low as 5600 rpm. If you are willing to put up with a rather wild cam, elevens are possible even at 3850 race weight. You will just need enough gear to make it all work. With a four speed, the more gear you can put up with the better.
A single plane intake, a set of forged pistons with 1/16 rings that are file fit, and 1 7/8 headers along with a cam of roughly 260 duration at .050 on the intake will do the job. If you feel the cam duration of 260 is too much, then go as much as you think you can tolerate.
An old Mopar direct connection cam test in a low compression 400 equipped Duster kept getting faster with each increase in cam size all the way up to the .590. They went from the small hydraulic all the way up testing all their cams, and if I recall correctly each step up was worth a .10+

---

Quote:

---

You'll spend a bunch of money going from a 3.55 to a 3.91 (almost no performance gain), but won't spend the money for a good set of heads (probably worth 30-40 hp).

---

Really? Define a 'bunch of money'. A Richmond ring and pinion for an 8.75 3.55 is $236. A 3.91 is $229. So I would actually be saving money? is right.
A set of Eddie heads is $1500. A set of 4.10's right here on Moparts is $525. Soooo, let's say I can't sell the 3.55's at all. I am out $525. I have to lose $975 on the gear change to make the head purchase EVEN.
When you figure out what numbers I need to use to make the heads MORE economical than the cylinder heads, let me know.
Maybe it is just that your idea of budget and mine differ. That's fine. I don't have $1500 to put out for cylinder heads. That's the bottom line. I can set up a $250 ring an pinion for myself for free. It doesn't matter if the heads make an extra 200 horespower if they are on the shelf at Jegs. I have access to all the factory big block stuff I could ever want at very reasonable prices.
I just want to get the thing on the road and running decent, I will upgrade later.

Quote:

---

I would see if you could swing a forged steel BB crank and have the mains down for the 400, a set of BB LY rods and a set of shelf pistons to make a 451 or 452 C.I. low deck Single pane M1 or a Eddy Performer RPM and a 850 carb. your there on pump gas

---

how much et would a stroker make given the same top end and valvetrain?ive always heard that an engine will make the same hp with less cubic inches as with more but at a higher rpm but on this site before a question gets asked on how to build an engine peaple are ready to tell u what stroker crank to use. for that matter i dont think you are better off strength wise building a stroker at this hp level-the rpm goes down but the piston speed and side loading goes up does anyone have any track testing on this?

any way heres my spin on a 383 budget build and i bet itll be different than anyone elses:

used chevy 427 flat tops -bore yuor block to fit
440 long stock conn rods
forged 383 crank
used solid cam/lifters (evryone has an extra cam-send to get resurfaced if nessisary)
906 heads!think about it -closed chamber heads are junk for anything but getting a littl bit of compression out of a budget 383 build-if you decide to build a 440 or 451 later on,these same peaple will be telling you to throw those heads away so how are they a budget piece?

Quote:

---

The guy I get most of my engine stuff from had over 400 big blocks at one time. I'm sure I could find a few 400's and a couple steel cranks from a 440.
Wondering how cost effective it would be.
I would like to stay away from strokers, but not opposed to it.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

You'll spend a bunch of money going from a 3.55 to a 3.91 (almost no performance gain), but won't spend the money for a good set of heads (probably worth 30-40 hp).

---

Really? Define a 'bunch of money'. A Richmond ring and pinion for an 8.75 3.55 is $236. A 3.91 is $229. So I would actually be saving money? is right.
A set of Eddie heads is $1500. A set of 4.10's right here on Moparts is $525. Soooo, let's say I can't sell the 3.55's at all. I am out $525. I have to lose $975 on the gear change to make the head purchase EVEN.
When you figure out what numbers I need to use to make the heads MORE economical than the cylinder heads, let me know.
Maybe it is just that your idea of budget and mine differ. That's fine. I don't have $1500 to put out for cylinder heads. That's the bottom line. I can set up a $250 ring an pinion for myself for free. It doesn't matter if the heads make an extra 200 horespower if they are on the shelf at Jegs. I have access to all the factory big block stuff I could ever want at very reasonable prices.
I just want to get the thing on the road and running decent, I will upgrade later.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

You'll spend a bunch of money going from a 3.55 to a 3.91 (almost no performance gain), but won't spend the money for a good set of heads (probably worth 30-40 hp).

---

Really? Define a 'bunch of money'. A Richmond ring and pinion for an 8.75 3.55 is $236. A 3.91 is $229. So I would actually be saving money? is right.
A set of Eddie heads is $1500. A set of 4.10's right here on Moparts is $525. Soooo, let's say I can't sell the 3.55's at all. I am out $525. I have to lose $975 on the gear change to make the head purchase EVEN.
When you figure out what numbers I need to use to make the heads MORE economical than the cylinder heads, let me know.
Maybe it is just that your idea of budget and mine differ. That's fine. I don't have $1500 to put out for cylinder heads. That's the bottom line. I can set up a $250 ring an pinion for myself for free. It doesn't matter if the heads make an extra 200 horespower if they are on the shelf at Jegs. I have access to all the factory big block stuff I could ever want at very reasonable prices.
I just want to get the thing on the road and running decent, I will upgrade later.

---

My bad.

Thought the 3.55 was complete, assembled and in the car. Most cannot set them up themselves. Buying a fresh pig is more than a set of Stealths.

---

Quote:

---

how much et would a stroker make given the same top end and valvetrain?ive always heard that an engine will make the same hp with less cubic inches as with more but at a higher rpm but on this site before a question gets asked on how to build an engine peaple are ready to tell u what stroker crank to use.

---

Quote:

---

Thanks Tom. I was kinda eyeing Ron's build. Because it ran a number where I would like to be(although with a heavier car I know it won't go that fast) and it is pretty simple, even without aftermarket pistons.
Also because it seems whatever Ron screws together runs like (insert your injured, scared, burned animal reference here).

---

Never to put down anyone else's build (they are ALL great from different approaches ), but Ron's build is a basic low buck setup , which is very functional for what you MAY want to do and still enjoy street/highway driving the car. His build is a bit different due to car weight (his is 400-600 lbs less than yours). So where his runs a bit stronger from midrange and up, you have concentrate on having a bit more low end and VERY strong midrange due to the car being slightly heavier. Meaning the right choice in parts
will net you great power! An EDDY 383 RPM and 750 carb (holley or carter) is a good choice. A good cam choice would be profiles between the 68-71 383 Magnum spec and MP 280 degree .474"/.474" (Street Hemi) cam spec BY ANY choice of cam manufacturer. Remember, when you buy the cam, it is best to buy the WHOLE KIT or complete
compatible components for the cam. But, check your valve to piston clearances, ALWAYS!! Pocket port the heads and you will gain some power. Gears? 3.91's - 4.10's should be okay. Careful tire size selection is the key. The torque multiplication in the drivetrain is different between a 4speed and a automatic, so tires play a big part in engine rpm vs car speed vs et/60' times. And by all means get the car to HOOK WELL with the suspension you presently have. If you have a bit MORE thought in performance, an article in 2009's Spring Edition of Engine Masters
may help. Titled "383 Power Play" and written by Steve Dulcich, this is a wealth of information on basic 383 modifications. It's another CLASSIC example of carefully selecting parts to make good power. However, I strongly believe you are looking for something that FALLS between Ron's build and Steve's build. Good luck!

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Thanks Tom. I was kinda eyeing Ron's build. Because it ran a number where I would like to be(although with a heavier car I know it won't go that fast) and it is pretty simple, even without aftermarket pistons.
Also because it seems whatever Ron screws together runs like (insert your injured, scared, burned animal reference here).

---

Never to put down anyone else's build (they are ALL great from different approaches ), but Ron's build is a basic low buck setup , which is very functional for what you MAY want to do and still enjoy street/highway driving the car. His build is a bit different due to car weight (his is 400-600 lbs less than yours). So where his runs a bit stronger from midrange and up, you have concentrate on having a bit more low end and VERY strong midrange due to the car being slightly heavier. Meaning the right choice in parts
will net you great power! An EDDY 383 RPM and 750 carb (holley or carter) is a good choice. A good cam choice would be profiles between the 68-71 383 Magnum spec and MP 280 degree .474"/.474" (Street Hemi) cam spec BY ANY choice of cam manufacturer. Remember, when you buy the cam, it is best to buy the WHOLE KIT or complete
compatible components for the cam. But, check your valve to piston clearances, ALWAYS!! Pocket port the heads and you will gain some power. Gears? 3.91's - 4.10's should be okay. Careful tire size selection is the key. The torque multiplication in the drivetrain is different between a 4speed and a automatic, so tires play a big part in engine rpm vs car speed vs et/60' times. And by all means get the car to HOOK WELL with the suspesension you presently have. If you have a bit MORE thought in performance, an article in 2009's Spring Edition of Engine Masters
may help. Titled "383 Power Play" and written by Steve Dulcich, this is a wealth of information on basic 383 modifications. It's another CLASSIC example of carefully selecting parts to make good power. However, I strongly believe you are looking for something that FALLS between Ron's build and Steve's build. Good luck!

---

Quote:

---

If you want to know some basic milling tips and issues with 906 heads, go to the thread titled "Milling 906 Heads". Some interesting thoughts on that topic.

---