engine warm, it's almost a drop a second. not happy about this. and i am noticing oil puking out the dipstick, valve covers, there is obviously multiple issues here. too bad for me the engine builder eddie haines lives in florida, and i am in oregon.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k467YaX17TQ&feature=youtu.be

this, is not where i want the engine to be, after spending this kind of dough. out it comes, time to take a closer look........

for starters, oil is coming out the dipstick........

and the valve covers......

and the front timing chain cover seal as well, but more interestingly, there is some weeping that actually appears to be coming out of the block itself, on the oil passage way.....

...and running down. so what i thought was a rear main leak, appears to be a casting issue above the rear main.......

engine going BACK to florida, to be sorted out. blowby like mad, leaking block, all kinds of fun here. stay tuned..........

Hey man sorry to hear about your motor. That really sucks. When you get finished you'll have a reaaly nice car. Keep your head up.

Sorry to here of the troubles. In the end it will work out. Hang in there keep your chin up. I went through some issues on mine and I'm not sure every thing is totally sorted out on it either.

backstory on this motor, this is an earlier mopar performance block, (pre world product i believe?) it has a full water jacket, not siamese bores......

anyway, here was the deal: the block did in fact have a casting issue, and was leaking out of the main oil circuit. it did not rear itself as a problem until the engine was good and hot. eddie haines had the machine shop bore the passage to 3/8"s, then tolerance fit a thin wall tube that was loctited in. he then epoxied over the repair on the outside, for insurance. that took care of the oil leak......

the blowby issue: the diamond pistons were .0005 under tolerance in the ring gap, they were supposed to have .0015 clearance, and only had .001. is his words, some of the rings seized up in there because of this. he did not notice it on fire up at his place, i didn't notice it until it had run for awhile. so, diamond says they are within their spec, but the total seal rings did not like it. a new set of pistons would have taken 8 weeks, and they said they might be just the same dimension wise. so, a new set of rings were sized a half a thousandth off of the thickness, and used.....

this all took place without any discussing of the matter with me or my partner. the work had been done, and the engine put back together. i told him how i was not comfortable with this, as we were already in it deep enough with the first set of problems, and doing this again coast to coast was not an option, not after this much money has been spent. so, against my gut, i decided it would be ok if the engine were dynoed, cooled down, dynoed again, video'd, pics, etc, to verify everything was coming up good.....

the engine was broken in on the dyno, no blowby, and made 576hp and 543lbs. ft. of torque, at 5800rpm. he said the lifters begin to pump up after that in his past experience, so he didn't take it higher. he thinks there is still another 15hp or so there. there were pics, and vid, and everything looks to be good. it was not heat cycled like i asked for whatever reasons.......

so, engine back from florida, installed, timed, and ready to go. lets try this one more time...

stay tuned for the next exciting chapter of the drippy hemi saga......

all this happened in 2 days ?? Your picture of the motor heading out was on Sunday - do you own a teleporter ??

my hood is an early repro, according to a few sources, (another item that was not 'real' AAR) so i did not feel bad about drilling a few holes into it, for the hemicuda logo like on the shakers. i figured, the car is a mish mash of available factory options anyway, may as well have some callouts on the hood.....

so, even my repro hood has been repaired at the hinges, from the severe bowing the factory ones were susceptible to. i have been reading on here about people removing the spring, or springs, and using a hood prop to stop, or lessen, the 'bow' effect of these hoods. i decided to try it out, and see what happens. here is a shot of the 'before'. you could actually see into the engine compartment on mine, but from this angle, it doesn't look as bad as it really is......

first off i measured what a spring was at 'open' length, then fabbed and welded up some 1/4" bar stock from work into a shape that would hold the hood open. it still needs to be painted, just raw metal right now......

it works great for holding it open! i left the passenger spring on, the driver was the real problem. now onto flattening this pig out.....

no spring, and 80lbs. or so of stuff, seems to really flatten it out. i got the car nice and hot, and then parked this on the hood with the spring detached. looks promising.......

I carryed my hood in the house and put it on blocks and put 60 lbs on both sides for over a month. Didnt do a thing. I use a 3/4 pvc pipe paint black for prop pole. The springs have not been oh the hood for 1.5 yrs.I drive this car alot, and the hood has not flatten hardly any at all. I have heard that if you leave the springs off it would flatten out, I dont thinks so.