""We are not talking those POS cool carb spacers.""

""But If you having trouble with this, then I change the manifold to something without a heat riser or block yours before going any farther.""

That is good advice for both the Edy-9266,the Cool Carb members, and anyone trying to drive on todays crapty gas blend.

I have a 1407 on my stock 70 440.
It has the same problem of warm start issue.
When I pulled the engine for a re seal and cosmetic resto I blocked the heat crossover but it still has a warm start problem if I touch the gas pedal when starting.
If I just start it with the key and NO pedal it will start 9 out of 10 times.
I also have a factory thick gasket but may order up that one that was posted to see what happens.

I just ordered step up springs last night due to a bog when nailing the car.
Ron

Wow! I cant believe I am doing this again. When there is a "vapor lock" does that mean that the carb won't allow any more fuel into the carb? If that is the case, just how do you fix it? I have a 318 engine, with an edelbrock carb, a dual plane intake, a circulating fuel system from the filter just down stream from the mechanical pump, a clear filter at the carb, (just to make sure I can tell whether the fuel is moving), and the fuel lines are away from any heat sink. The carb isn't that hot, that is too hot to touch. There is the 1/2" gasket you mention to insulate it from the manifold, (yes it really is hot). But, we ran with the car for over a year without any problems before even insulating the carb from the manifold.

Noticed the coil, a new one, is really hot. Is that normal?

Noticed that the fuel was slowly getting less and less in the clear filter bowl. Especially as I would test the acceleration pump. This pump was squirting lightly but not putting out much fuel. Yeah, I get it may be lean. I will fix that. When it quit, it was 1/4 mile from the house. I left it in a parking lot while I worked on it. Changed out the fuel pump, didn't help. Then eight hours later, I went back by and it started up so I could drive it the rest of the way home. But it was completely cooled off.

This is getting really frustrating! I know the carb is the culprit and I am getting really mad at it, but, I just feel that it will run fine if I can just get this problem eliminated. Just need to see if the vapor lock is the problem and how to stop it. It just didn't seem to be a really heat problem.

I haven't checked the heat riser. There isn't a cat anymore since we don't have to have the car inspection here. Even in NC, a car this old isn't run through emissions. But, I will look at this out.

Since most complain about the Eddy and it's problems which I never had,why not get a good used AVS or AFB that suits your needs,rework it and be done ? There are enough for just about any application.

Carb._________Venturi dia._________Bore dia.

CFM__________Pri.____Sec._______Pri._____Sec.

750 ................1 7/16.....1 9/16 ......1 11/16....1 11/16
625.................1 3/16.....1 9/16.......1 7/16......1 11/16
575.................1 1/4.......1 9/16.......1 9/16......1 11/16
500.................1 3/16.....1 1/4.........1 7/16 .....1 11/16
400 ................1 1/8.......1 1/4.........1 7/16......1 7/16

Sounds like a good idea. I really want to get this carb going. So, I am going to stick to it the best I can. My wife thinks I should just get rid of the whole care because of this one little problem. What I can't understand is why there wasn't a problem with it for more than a year of driving. Quality of gas a problem? I will jump up to a mid grade if necessary, but, I really think there is a good solution to this problem without going to that extreme. And my heat riser appears to be working okay. So, it is back to tearing the carb down, going to a higher flow rate, and having a back up carb ready to go on at a moments notice.

I bought a phenolic (1/2") spacer for a few bucks off ebay. It was here really fast. Look it up, it wasn't expensive.

Speaking of which, I started to take the carb off the engine last night to replace the Edelbrock spacer with this thicker spacer and found the nuts on the carb loose. The back left one was so loose, it was moving up and down from the vibration from the motor. I replaced the spacers and started it up. Didn't hear or feel any difference, but, I assure you I can't help but think this is the reason for the last issues. Last Saturday, the car ran fine for hour or so, stopping and starting here and there until I was coming back to the warehouse. Don't understand why it would restart and run well enough to drive it back to the warehouse, 1/4 mile away, but, THIS has to be the reason why I was having the last problem. Anyway, the spacer is there, fuel lines have been routed around all hot spots, the carb is tuned and I am going for a run to see if this stops the shut downs.

I would have tightened the nuts as is to see if that was it but yes holler if it's all good now

yeah, you are right, but I wanted to replace the edelbrock spacer anyway. We'll see if it works.

Drove the car home (15 miles) on Saturday without incident. Believe the first problem was the coil wire barely connected, then the nuts holding the carburator down. Even though I didn't stop and start a bunch of times, I can't help but believe that the loose nuts were the last straw. With the new 1/2" spacer, I think the heat sink problem is gone. I took off one circulating filter and have left a final filter at the carburator. It is indicating that the fuel pressure is better and flow is good. There are a lot of little things that hurt, but it appears they are all good now. Will drive the car now without fear it wants to shut down.

Thanks for all the imput and great imformation.