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Re: Long wheel stud question? [Re: FASTBACK340] #1299934
09/10/12 09:32 AM
09/10/12 09:32 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,132
Niles , Ohio
T
therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
therocks  Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
T

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,132
Niles , Ohio
I know at work when you replace a stud you pull the axles or bearings on new cars and press them in .Ive been wrenching since the 60s and as a Master tech for over 30 years.Ive never seen anyone take say a frt hub bearing out to replace a stud.Just smack them out and use an inverted lug and washers to pull the new one in.Thats on cars that get wheels taken off all the time and see a 100K miles.Never had one break or stretch.I also use antisieze.Best stuff ever made.I believe I used Mr Gaskets on our cars for the rears and Moroso for the frt disc.If you pull the axles one at a time just stuff a rag in the end and no oil comes out.I have 2 pieces of plastic that fit the ends so if any oil is there it stops it.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Long wheel stud question? [Re: therocks] #2859614
12/13/20 09:24 PM
12/13/20 09:24 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 893
Tustin, CA
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pishta Offline
super stock
pishta  Offline
super stock
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 893
Tustin, CA
You all know the factory studs are swedged in and taking them out the back is gonna jack the factory knurl up as the swedge is a fatter area of the stud that keeps it from pulling out. You need to cut the heads off the back and drive whats left out through the front, or use a swedge cutter and reduce the swedge to less than the knurl diameter. Remember that there are 7/16 studs for the 5 on 4 8 3/4 too so putting a 1/2-20 stud as the replacement part number for this title is misleading unless you state that its for the LBP axles.

Last edited by pishta; 12/13/20 10:49 PM.

12 Grand Caravan
06 T&C
02 T&C
96 Breeze
65 Barracuda "S"
Re: Long wheel stud question? [Re: pishta] #2859649
12/13/20 10:11 PM
12/13/20 10:11 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,956
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,956
Bend,OR USA
Originally Posted by pishta
You all know the factory studs are swedged in and taking them out the back is gonna jack the factory knurl up as the swedge is a fatter area of the stud that keeps it from pulling out. You need to cut the heads off the back and drive whats left out through the back, or use a swedge cutter and reduce the swedge to less than the knurl diameter. Remember that there are 7/16 studs for the 5 on 4 8 3/4 too so putting a 1/2-20 stud as the replacement part number for this title is misleading unless you state that its for the LBP axles.

The only swedge studs I've seen or dealt with where on the early cars with left hand studs on the driver side of the cars on the front and rear brake drums on the tapered axles. Mopar stopped using the tapered axles in 1965 and stop using the left hand studs in 1971 or 1972 ,I think :confused
OP, I have had small bolt pattern 8 3/4 axles drilled and tap for screw in 1/2 inch long wheel studs, Mr. Gasket and Moroso use to make and sell them scope
There is not enough meat on those axles to drill and push in a regular 1/2 inch stock Mopar wheel stud so the smaller 1/2 diameter screw in stud is the only choice on converting the early A body 8 3/4 stock axles to 4 1/2 inch pattern shruggy I ran them in a BB Duster for a lot of years before breaking a lot of the 8 3/4 parts inside and bending the crap out of the stock unbraced housing realcrazy whiney


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Long wheel stud question? [Re: Cab_Burge] #2862306
12/19/20 07:24 PM
12/19/20 07:24 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825
Sk. Canada
RemCharger Offline
master
RemCharger  Offline
master

Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825
Sk. Canada
Thread is 8 years old

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