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my 900.00 P/glide handles close to 900 hp now makes 8.50 passes and has over 200 runs on it. no high dollar stuff here

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I just built one for a 650ish HP engine , but it's not the HP its the TORQUE that will hurt it , it wasn't cheap and I didn't go all out .
A+A ultimate sprag $175
A+A Front Billet Steel drum $695
4 pinion planet with a steel spline front and rollerized $425
Red lined soild front Band $?
Kevlar lined rear band $?
Red Alto Clutches and Kolene Steels $?
Teflon seals on front drum and input shaft $?
Billet front and rear servos $180
Billet spring retainer for the front drum $45
CRT Low band apply reverse manual VB $275
4.2 Lever $35
HD front band strut $25
Modified stator support $90
Billet pump gears $175
I'm sure I missed something , I have to go thru the pile of receipts still

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A bulletproof and cheap 727 is called a TH400

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I doubt that you can't just pull one out of a pickup and throw it your race or hot street motor ...

People go to the TH400 because of the design , NOT the cost .

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they are as strong if not stronger than a P/G out of the box. I have a stock P/G in my Duster using Alto clutches and a good band with a t brake. Over a few hundred passes and zero problems with 6000 + RPM launches.Took it down about 75 runs ago and only replaced a few clutches that show very minor wear and only did that because I had them sitting in the shop. Otherwise I would have buttoned it right back up. I am sure a 400 is just as durable. Cost is much cheaper than building a comparable 727.

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You're beating that "Dead Horse" again Fred.. Happy B-Day..
I vote P/G too, but some don't get it or just don't want to hear it..

If you have to put a Torqueflite in it..Call these guys..

Pro Trans.. Dave Smith
Street: 42156 10th St W
Lancaster, ca 93534-
Phone: (661) 940-7400


Chris..

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Best in the world when it comes to torqueflytes

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my 900.00 P/glide handles close to 900 hp now makes 8.50 passes and has over 200 runs on it. no high dollar stuff here

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Fred, but your car has enough power to only need 2 gears. Put a power glide in most 600hp cars on this board, and they'll slow down...


Here's my list in terms of strength.

1) Bolt in sprag for strength/safety.

2) Rebuild kit, with good clutches and bands.

3) Reverse Manual valve body.

That's less then $500, and at this point you can make a lot of power on just those 3 things.

We ran our NSS 500" 10.50 car at one point with just that for 500 passes without ever even freshening it. And even before and after freshening it, the trans never broke (aside for a few converters...)

Now if you want more safety on top of that go ahead and put a low band apply valve body in it. But you don't need a low band apply valve body and a billet drum. One or the other covers you on safety. I personally would put a billet drum in it before the LBA because the LBA drives me nuts on the street. But if I were on a budget, I'd put the LBA in it and forget about it.

Beyond that, next strength mods can be planetary's, then pump gears, then billet output, then billet input. But you're talking mega power at that point.

Also, if you buy a valve body with resonable line pressue, you do not need billet servo's, billet pistons, etc... Unless you have a trans brake or LBA, the rear servo is only turned on in reverse...And even if it did break a servo at that point, all you have to do is take the pan off of it. Easy swap...

Band struts can easily be made yourself. Just a simple bridge on the back of it will suffice for strength. Pump mod's are right on CRT's website, and easily done yourself.

People run 904 stuff in 10sec cars all the time, and some of you guys are worried about a 727 at 600hp?

My

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I just built one for a 650ish HP engine , but it's not the HP its the TORQUE that will hurt it , it wasn't cheap and I didn't go all out .
A+A ultimate sprag $175
A+A Front Billet Steel drum $695
4 pinion planet with a steel spline front and rollerized $425
Red lined soild front Band $?
Kevlar lined rear band $?
Red Alto Clutches and Kolene Steels $?
Teflon seals on front drum and input shaft $?
Billet front and rear servos $180
Billet spring retainer for the front drum $45
CRT Low band apply reverse manual VB $275
4.2 Lever $35
HD front band strut $25
Modified stator support $90
Billet pump gears $175
I'm sure I missed something , I have to go thru the pile of receipts still

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Sounds nice. What is modified on the stator support? or what is the benifit?

I plan to rebuild my 727 before installing the new 500" stroker, and I plan on using most of the parts you outlined above, except the valve body. I need a standard pattern valve body, and I haven't decided to go full manual or just use my stock valve body with a TF-2 shift kit?

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I brought a trans from joe at tranzact and he said it will be good for 950 hp but I know in the back of my mind that doesn't mean it will hold up.

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Exactly , NOTHING is bulletproof , if you make something bulletproof someone will make a BETTER BULLET

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For what its worth I've been building 727s for over 25 years. I have never had a drum failure. I've had a few rear servo failures in plow trucks.

I've used stock drums many times but can understand using a aftermaket unit for saftey. Has anyone ever seen an aluminum or billet steel drum explode? I have not.

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