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Considering a new chassis, weight savings? #1294474
08/31/12 08:11 AM
08/31/12 08:11 AM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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My current car is as stout as about any chassis out there, but it is a real pig that weighs 2750 with the following parts.
20 lb glass hood, steel doors, glass trunk lid, all aluminum interior , all lexan windows and 2x3 frame rails. I have stock upper and lower A arms with Wilwood brakes front and back Ladder bars in the back. I am running a Megablock 528 cube motor with torqueflite and a Dana 60 rear that is 47 inches wide at the mounting surface. 4 gallon fuel cell, single terminator injection.
Any Ideas as to how much weight I could save by building a new chassis with the same ladder bars and a strut front? It would be mild steel most likely.

Last edited by gregsdart; 08/31/12 08:12 AM.

8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294475
08/31/12 08:16 AM
08/31/12 08:16 AM
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JERICOGTX Offline
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Greg, if you are going to build a new chassis, why not 4 link the car at the same time?

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: JERICOGTX] #1294476
08/31/12 08:32 AM
08/31/12 08:32 AM
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Lehigh Acres, Florida
rickstershemi Offline
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Quote:

Greg, if you are going to build a new chassis, why not 4 link the car at the same time?




and go moly....if your going through that much work might as well get the most weight loss as possible

Rickster

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294477
08/31/12 08:39 AM
08/31/12 08:39 AM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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My reason for sticking with ladder bars and MS is budget. I can notch and weld MS but not moly, and the entire 4 link package is what, another $800 with brackets?
I do have another body which may end up lighter by itself, as the old one has three coats of paint on it.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294478
08/31/12 09:14 AM
08/31/12 09:14 AM
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Is your 2 X 3 .125 wall or .090.... the struts will
take a fair bit right of the front

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1294479
08/31/12 10:23 AM
08/31/12 10:23 AM
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Fulton County, PA
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CMcAllister Offline
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DOM MS and moly are close enough in price that it's a no brainer to use the 4130. ERW would not even be in the conversation for me. The difference is the CM has to be TIGed and we're talking about a substantial weight savings with the amount of steel needed to build a complete car. Not to mention the CM is stronger. Moly notches fine with a hole saw type notcher. Just have to replace the saw a little more often.

A 4-link would be money well spent for your application, especially if you insist on keeping the 3 speed.. It doesn't have to be the latest $$$ Pro Stock system.

With the power you are making, the new car would need to pass the appropriate SFI spec (25-4?) also.


If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294480
08/31/12 11:19 AM
08/31/12 11:19 AM
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PA.
pittsburghracer Offline
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Quote:

My reason for sticking with ladder bars and MS is budget. I can notch and weld MS but not moly, and the entire 4 link package is what, another $800 with brackets?
I do have another body which may end up lighter by itself, as the old one has three coats of paint on it.




Greg build your car the way you want and within YOUR budget. We are not getting any younger or richer as time passes. My Daytona is mild steel, certified to 7.50, light, and a safe car. Big deal the car would be worth more down the road if its chrome moly. It will also be a lot more expensive right now. Get it done and out racing before we are all in senior citizen centers talking about how much HP HEMI"S can make on a dyno.


1970 Duster
Edelbrock headed 408
5.984@112.52
422 Indy headed small block
5.982@112.56 mph
9.42@138.27

Livin and lovin life one day at a time




Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1294481
08/31/12 05:37 PM
08/31/12 05:37 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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My car is 2x3 x .125, and most all of the tube is .134x 13/4.
Depending on total cost, the thought came that I could just go aluminum block and strut front end. A heck of a lot easier and after selling the old stuff it would bring the price down some. If I could pull at least 150 lbs out of it that way, the car would run consistent 8.80s in the heat of summer, .60s in the better air. That is about as far as I want to go due to the 8.50 cert cost.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294482
08/31/12 05:45 PM
08/31/12 05:45 PM
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SW Ohio
AAR-B4 Offline
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I can't answer your question about weight but I think you could save a lot of $ and effort by selling what you have and buy a rolling chassis already done and certified.
Just saying......

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: AAR-B4] #1294483
08/31/12 06:20 PM
08/31/12 06:20 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4 Offline
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The aluminum block weighs 142 lbs. bare, but you could almost buy another car or have a c/m chassis with struts for the cost of one.


it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: gregsdart] #1294484
08/31/12 06:22 PM
08/31/12 06:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Quote:

My car is 2x3 x .125, and most all of the tube is .134x 13/4.
Depending on total cost, the thought came that I could just go aluminum block and strut front end. A heck of a lot easier and after selling the old stuff it would bring the price down some. If I could pull at least 150 lbs out of it that way, the car would run consistent 8.80s in the heat of summer, .60s in the better air. That is about as far as I want to go due to the 8.50 cert cost.




I just got done doing a 8 point with mild 1 3/4 X
.134... I cant believe how heavy that stuff is...
I would really look at moly... when you figure that
you buy it by weight its not all that pricey... if
I recall its 30% more cost(could be less).... I could
pick up my whole chassis in the Rampage and I guess
it was about 180# max..... BUT you have to tig it

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: rowin4] #1294485
08/31/12 06:27 PM
08/31/12 06:27 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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Quote:

The aluminum block weighs 142 lbs. bare, but you could almost buy another car or have a c/m chassis with struts for the cost of one.



The Dart has been my race car for thirty four years, so I am kinda fond of it, even as it is.
AS far as the block goes, I have the mega block to sell, along with a 4.15 crank to offset the cost some. I would reuse everything else. I don't know what a used Megablock is worth, but it ought to cover at least a third of the new one?
I am a KB fan, so that is what I would like to have some day.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: rowin4] #1294486
08/31/12 06:36 PM
08/31/12 06:36 PM
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Quote:

The aluminum block weighs 142 lbs. bare, but you could almost buy another car or have a c/m chassis with struts for the cost of one.




I think I payed $1200 for all the tubing in my Rampage
and $1900 for the Strange strut package(thats everything
on the front end including brakes but lacking the
rack).... so basically I have a touch over $3100
for the chassis and front end... I had a rack and
you could use your rear end... of course thats not
counting in labor welding it

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1294487
08/31/12 06:48 PM
08/31/12 06:48 PM
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gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

The aluminum block weighs 142 lbs. bare, but you could almost buy another car or have a c/m chassis with struts for the cost of one.




I think I payed $1200 for all the tubing in my Rampage
and $1900 for the Strange strut package(thats everything
on the front end including brakes but lacking the
rack).... so basically I have a touch over $3100
for the chassis and front end... I had a rack and
you could use your rear end... of course thats not
counting in labor welding it






Still a couple thousand short


it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: CMcAllister] #1294488
08/31/12 06:52 PM
08/31/12 06:52 PM
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communist bloc of new jersey
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jamesc Offline
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Quote:

DOM MS and moly are close enough in price that it's a no brainer to use the 4130. ERW would not even be in the conversation for me. The difference is the CM has to be TIGed and we're talking about a substantial weight savings with the amount of steel needed to build a complete car. Not to mention the CM is stronger.




as far as material this is my exact personal opinion. when you get down to it the majority of the expense for a chassis is labor. imho ERW is for fence posts. when i recently priced a DOM vs moly bar kit they were the same price which makes the decision pretty easy

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: jamesc] #1294489
08/31/12 07:08 PM
08/31/12 07:08 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

DOM MS and moly are close enough in price that it's a no brainer to use the 4130. ERW would not even be in the conversation for me. The difference is the CM has to be TIGed and we're talking about a substantial weight savings with the amount of steel needed to build a complete car. Not to mention the CM is stronger.




as far as material this is my exact personal opinion. when you get down to it the majority of the expense for a chassis is labor. imho ERW is for fence posts. when i recently priced a DOM vs moly bar kit they were the same price which makes the decision pretty easy



Plus there is the cost of new interior sheetmetal and the labor cost. Then paint for the chassis.
If a cage is tacked together and ready to tig, what would the labor cost roughly?
It is getting to sound like I should just shop for an aluminum B1 motor and run that. An extra 100 hp plus 100 lbs off the car= a solid three tenths.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: jamesc] #1294490
08/31/12 07:10 PM
08/31/12 07:10 PM
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JERICOGTX Offline
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Greg, do you have a bender? Guys I work with buy steel in bulk, and get a little better deal that way. I can get you a price on DOM through them.

I have a bender and 1 5/8" die here.

Jeff

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: JERICOGTX] #1294491
08/31/12 07:34 PM
08/31/12 07:34 PM
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jamesc Offline
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i was speaking specifically from a materials position. for your situation the engine change would probably be the least expensive, labor intensive solution to achieve your goals.

Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: JERICOGTX] #1294492
08/31/12 09:59 PM
08/31/12 09:59 PM
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline OP
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Quote:

Greg, do you have a bender? Guys I work with buy steel in bulk, and get a little better deal that way. I can get you a price on DOM through them.

I have a bender and 1 5/8" die here.

Jeff



Thanks, Jeff. If I do decide on building one, I will give you a call. Sorry to hear about all the damage. Been some of that over here too. Luckily, last time out, no problems.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: Considering a new chassis, weight savings? [Re: rowin4] #1294493
09/01/12 01:15 AM
09/01/12 01:15 AM
Joined: Nov 2009
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St. Paul , Mn.
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Quote:

The aluminum block weighs 142 lbs. bare, but you could almost buy another car or have a c/m chassis with struts for the cost of one.




This has been my advice to a couple other guys......funny how I am too stupid to take it myself.
There are some great deals on rollers and you could re-skin a chassis if the '65 wasn't such a strange car dimensionally.
Finding anything that would be an easy fit would be a problem.
These bodies tend to grow on a guy........not particularly aerodynamic , but they do look nice.
Off topic , but did you ever get back together with your hood mold Greg ?
I bought a hood from Showcars ( I DO NOT recommend them ) , figured I got ripped off after a year and a half of excuses and found another on a car that was being parted and bought it......only to have the Showcars hood show up two days after I took delivery of the other one.
I still wouldn't mind having a " nice " spare.

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