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for me it has alot to do with if its a metallic or not, if its not you can paint it apart, if its a metallic its easier to paint if the car is together or the very least all panels hanging in the same direction as if they were on the car.

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Just sort of thinking as I go here...

Paint door hinges & spots where door hinges, hood hinges mount, & fenders mount. Basically assuring good paint coverage on any metal to metal contact areas to prevent rust.

Then bolt all the pieces on, align the panels properly, paint the bottom of the car first (make sure doors, hood, & trunk a latched before flipping car over!), then turn it right side up and open all the doors, hood, trunk, paint the inside of the car next (it's hard to get to), then paint the engine compartment and all the outside parts.

This way your panels will be aligned, and all your bolts will be painted, no paint chips, and you can just start putting it together.

I'm hoping to paint mine soon. What do you guys think, will that work?

Of coarse that's not OE, and also doesn't account for special stuff like bumblebee stripes or blackout areas.

Tav

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Started with this with no rust, got really lucky.




I blasted the whole car and primed with two different primers and then a sealer and single stage color all in four long days. It was done with NO scraping, sanding or scuffing at all.Sat I blasted the bottom and Sun I did the outside with plastic. Then Mon etch prime, epoxy. Tues AM it got single stage color, next time I think I'm gonna go clearcoat. I'm only talking about the bottom,engine compartment and interior, I did'nt touch the outside body panels at this point.


Then spent 205 hours pulling out dents and blocking the car(Thanks to Markz528!) and it was ready for paint.

Right at this point the doors and fenders need to be put on the car or setup with the car in the booth.


Mine were done separatly and there was color variations after the paint cured, luckly my painter repainted my car at his expense the second time. I even warned him ahead of time about metalics but he did'n think there would be a problem, he was wrong. He wanted no lines anywhere on the car so is why he did it that way. Solid colors may not be a problem.

Here is the car a few days after the first paint, it matched for about the first 60 days or so,but as more time went by the more varaitions I could see.

It all worked out in the end. Hope this helps someone.

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I primed with two different primers and then a sealer and single color all in four long days. It was done with NO sanding or scraping at all.

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Tues AM it got single stage color, next time I think I'm gonna go clearcoat. Then spent 205 hours pulling out dents and blocking the car(Thanks to Markz528!) and it was ready for paint.

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Wouldn't you want to fix dents Before painting the inside just incase the dents require hammering on the interior of the panel?

Thanks for your input.

Tav

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Just sort of thinking as I go here...

Paint door hinges & spots where door hinges, hood hinges mount, & fenders mount. Basically assuring good paint coverage on any metal to metal contact areas to prevent rust.

Then bolt all the pieces on, align the panels properly, paint the bottom of the car first (make sure doors, hood, & trunk a latched before flipping car over!), then turn it right side up and open all the doors, hood, trunk, paint the inside of the car next (it's hard to get to), then paint the engine compartment and all the outside parts.

This way your panels will be aligned, and all your bolts will be painted, no paint chips, and you can just start putting it together.

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Just sort of thinking as I go here...

Paint door hinges & spots where door hinges, hood hinges mount, & fenders mount. Basically assuring good paint coverage on any metal to metal contact areas to prevent rust.

Then bolt all the pieces on, align the panels properly, paint the bottom of the car first (make sure doors, hood, & trunk a latched before flipping car over!), then turn it right side up and open all the doors, hood, trunk, paint the inside of the car next (it's hard to get to), then paint the engine compartment and all the outside parts.

This way your panels will be aligned, and all your bolts will be painted, no paint chips, and you can just start putting it together.

I'm hoping to paint mine soon. What do you guys think, will that work?

Of coarse that's not OE, and also doesn't account for special stuff like bumblebee stripes or blackout areas.

Tav

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Quote:

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Just sort of thinking as I go here...

Paint door hinges & spots where door hinges, hood hinges mount, & fenders mount. Basically assuring good paint coverage on any metal to metal contact areas to prevent rust.

Then bolt all the pieces on, align the panels properly, paint the bottom of the car first (make sure doors, hood, & trunk a latched before flipping car over!), then turn it right side up and open all the doors, hood, trunk, paint the inside of the car next (it's hard to get to), then paint the engine compartment and all the outside parts.

This way your panels will be aligned, and all your bolts will be painted, no paint chips, and you can just start putting it together.

I'm hoping to paint mine soon. What do you guys think, will that work?

Of coarse that's not OE, and also doesn't account for special stuff like bumblebee stripes or blackout areas.

Tav

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You do not want to have an assembled car on a rotisserie! When you combine the problems of added weight and loss of balance, body sag, having doors, a trunk lid and hood that latch(?) and the overspray/dryness issues in the jambs, you will have a disaster on your hands.
Paint only the shell on the rotisserie and have the other panels set up for paint as they hang on the vehicle. Doing otherwise will also create color match problems.
You can see how we do it at the website link. Click on "Total" and see our most recent completed projects. At Clark Classic Restorations we now have the benefit of 2 paint booths, most shops don't. Everything is set up in 2 booths and shot back-to-back. In other words, the body shell gets a coat in booth 1 and then the other panels get a coat in booth 2. Same number of color and clear coats for everything, along with panel position, assures a correct color match. Like mentioned above, doors and fenders need to be sprayed hung as they would be on a car, not laying flat. This is very critical with metallics, solids are more forgiving.

Steve

www.clarkclassic.com

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1st on rotisserie for stripping . then epoxy everything. have a factory [copy] car table where body and all bolt on parts are assembled and lined up. then remove everything except for door hinges which stay on cowl that already has 3 coats of SPI epoxy. the shell goes back on rotisserie for paint. dark gray SPI epoxy is applied to bottom then masked off. color is applied to inside of trunk and rest of inside then masked off. all bolt on parts are jambed ,outside body painted then back to car table to be assembled. then on to lift where body is lowered to k-frame with engine and tranny.for next few months i assemble car and sit in chair starring at it wondering what i am going to do with it.

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1st on rotisserie for stripping . then epoxy everything. have a factory [copy] car table where body and all bolt on parts are assembled and lined up. then remove everything except for door hinges which stay on cowl that already has 3 coats of SPI epoxy. the shell goes back on rotisserie for paint. dark gray SPI epoxy is applied to bottom then masked off. color is applied to inside of trunk and rest of inside then masked off. all bolt on parts are jambed ,outside body painted then back to car table to be assembled. then on to lift where body is lowered to k-frame with engine and tranny.for next few months i assemble car and sit in chair starring at it wondering what i am going to do with it.

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:have a factory [copy] car table where body and all bolt on parts are assembled and lined up.

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in the factory the cars [unibody] ride on a rail system. anytime they need to remove the car from line to check a panel,primer or paint thickness or any other reason they can divert the car from line to a car table or a dolly on wheels without touching it. like a switch yard at rail station.my table is made using 6" square tube on dolly wheels from scaffold. the rear has adjustable 3/4" [three point hitch pins for tractor] where the frame holes on car rest on 2" flat washers. the front i use 18"X 3/4" all thread for leveling.just roll table under body ,run all thread rods up and release rotisserie. pins in rear and all thread are located in frame holes and lowered to height you want and body is level for fit up of bolt on parts. the table is under body out of the way and sits lower then rotisserie so it can be put in enclosed trailer if needs to be moved to paint shop.the factory is all done with hydraulics in a few minutes. it takes me about 2 hours to have body rolling around. working 1 hour bullsh...... the rest.

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