Re: "HELP"
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1237555
05/22/12 09:07 AM
05/22/12 09:07 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,766 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,766
On the parachute mount
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3-4 QTS LEFT IN THE PAN ON SHUT DOWN?? THAT SHOULD BE FINE.
FILL IT UP, CORRECT THE PROB WHY THE FILTER BLEW OFF/LEAK? AND ITS PROB FINE
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: n20mstr]
#1237556
05/22/12 10:31 AM
05/22/12 10:31 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,279 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
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"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,279
PA.
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Standard or high volume oil pump?
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.38@138.67
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: Fast Yeti]
#1237558
05/22/12 10:39 AM
05/22/12 10:39 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Muscle Motors high volume pump
Whats the oil pressure at higher RPMs... if its too high you might only need a standard volume pump
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1237561
05/22/12 10:54 AM
05/22/12 10:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,699 Newport, Mi
Evil Spirit
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,699
Newport, Mi
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Yeah, a standard volume pump, or if it's a BB one of the better adjustable pressure limit setups. Or both...
Free advice and worth every penny... Factory trained Slinky rewinder.........
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: Evil Spirit]
#1237564
05/22/12 10:59 AM
05/22/12 10:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,699 Newport, Mi
Evil Spirit
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,699
Newport, Mi
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Pretty much any pump I install I pull out the pressure valve and spring and "blueprint" it, making sure it slides easily, chamferring the passages, etc. Even if the pressure valve opens, the oil has to have somewhere to go, and sometimes the relief passages are poorly cast and restrictive, causing high oil pressure.
Free advice and worth every penny... Factory trained Slinky rewinder.........
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1237565
05/22/12 11:00 AM
05/22/12 11:00 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082 St. Paul , Mn.
tubtar
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,082
St. Paul , Mn.
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Quote:
Did you applogize to the track operator?
Never mind him........ it's the racers who had to wait who need an apology. Don't ask me how I know that. I'd bet the motor's fine here and glad nothing else got roont.
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: tubtar]
#1237568
05/22/12 11:47 AM
05/22/12 11:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588 Franklin, TN
23T Hemmee
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588
Franklin, TN
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Quote:
Quote:
Did you applogize to the track operator?
Never mind him........ it's the racers who had to wait who need an apology.
The racers aren't the ones that provide us with a place to run, or have to clean the mess up.
All 4 quarts in the pan means is that 5 got pushed out wherever the filter let go and never made it to the crankshaft. Depending on how quick you caught it, you might be fine or you might have wiped some bearings. Believe I would do what Cab said to be sure.
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Re: "HELP"
[Re: Fast Yeti]
#1237571
05/22/12 01:31 PM
05/22/12 01:31 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,902 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,902
Bend,OR USA
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Quote:
Is checking the bottom of the bearings enough without removing the bearings on the top side of the rods?
I would check both, push the rod up a little and push the tops out( push from the non bearing retainer tab side) to look at them, reverse the procedure to reinstall them. The tops are the one pushing on the crankshaft under power and compression If either one, top or bottom, has no bearing crush to hold them in the rods, replace them they should hold themselves in the rods, not fall out or drop out
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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