"but more and more I am suspecting the 6AL."

That is exactly where I was, and I know how frustrating it can be. I spoke with MSD twice on the issue. I wasn't impressed with the first fellow but the second time the guy was OK. Pat Collins was really nice and helpful. After talking with him, I still wasn't sure the 6AL-2 was at fault.

At the time, I struggled with the decision to buy the Streetfire unit but in the end decided it wasn't too expensive, and it would give me a "plug compatible" backup in the future. Are the wiring connections for the Crane unit the same as the MSD?

I found the diagnostic where you tap a jumper between the trigger wires to be really helpful. This was the first thing I did last night, and as soon as I saw there was no spark with the Streetfire unit, I knew my 6AL-2 was probably fine and I had a different problem since it seems like a long shot that both MSD products had the same issue for me. This diagnostic removes the distributor from the system during the test. I had also taken a spare coil with me, and tried that also with a "no spark" result.

After making sure the MSD had 12V on the run line, I looked closer at the trigger wires as I mentioned above and found the basic issue. Today I proved it was the molded 2 wire connector.

Once I get a good connector back on the car, I will swap the 6AL-2 back in. If I ever get the car to a chassis dyno, I may even try a comparison test between the two.

I hope you can find your issue soon!

Your distributor connector that went bad is the same as a 2-wire trailer connector. I discovered this wiring my MSD6A to my Chrysler distributor. It costs about $3 and it works. It also allows me to keep my orange box on the firewall for a spare. I used a twisted pair for an extension, soldered the MSD connector on one end and the trailer plug on the other. The MSD box is mounted on the fenderwell.

R.

Thanks for the tip! I did look at the trailer connectors at my local Carquest and NAPA, and the ones I saw are actually a little smaller (not as wide). I did end up buying one at NAPA, and put it on the car, but the male end does not close the overlapping rubber portion (it just butts against the connector instead of slipping inside) so is likely not weatherproof. I also found something on Summit that I will get on my next order but it is not possible to judge the connector width to see if it is right.

There is likely some variation to what is on the market, and others might be able to find something that works at the local auto store.