I thought about that as well. My guess is that they would probably be in the engineering archives of Chrysler, if that even still exists. I would think that a blueprint of specs to repair it, released to the public, may have been nixed by Ma Mopar since it may have been thought of as a non wearing component. My understanding is that a replacement would have been the recommendation rather than a repair.

I have more pictures to follow tonight. In fairness to "cageman" that thought that the LCA washers altered caster, I'll post an untouched K to show my point. I'll also show up close the open gaps of an unsupported steering box mount. Check back around 7:00 west coast time.

I guess that might of came of harsh. I just meant that if you dont know what your doing, you can really screw a car up. I have seen many a drag car that was sold cause the owner thought that he "knew" what he was doing, but just screwed up everything he touched.
In a perfect world, you would have set the bump before you took it out of the car, and took good measuremenst of its location in the car before taking it out. Also It would have been a good idea to have the car put on a frame rack to see if the whole car was indeed in the porper location. Then after you take the k frame out, you make a support jig to hold everything in place. These k frames are made out of relatively thin metal. Dont believe me it moved. Take a two inch wide by 1/8 inch strap that is two feet long. Weld across one side about half way, watch the metal move.
It appeared to me that you just welded a washer to where the lower butts into, if that was the case, you better start making some crazy upper control arms to even get 1/2 a degree of caster. All I can see is a bunch of grinder marks, so I still cant verify what you did or did not do.
Sorry if I hurt your feelers, I have learned more by people telling me what I did wrong, then people following me like sheep agreeing with me.

The "right" way to weld one would be to bolt or weld it down to a welding table and only run about 3" long beads one at a time letting them cool to below 100 degrees before starting another one. A K member could very easily be warped before or after welding.

My welds were actually shorter than that, more like 1 1/2" stitch style. I welded the perimeter in a huge circle, filling in until it was done.
As promised, here are a few more shots. This one is a 1973 A body V8 unit as built by Ma Mopar....

Note the ring that extends past the body of the K member. THAT is the lower control arm mount. It clearly sticks out by at least 1/8". The reinforcing washer that I used was exactly 1/8" thick and sat flush. The inside diameter of the washer was larger, so I welded in the gap and ground the welds flush. The end result should not result in a loss of any caster.

This is the same K member from another angle. You can see the open, unsupported areas of the steering box mount. Seeing it from this position without the steering box in the way, it is clear that there is room for improvement.

Its even more obvious from the front!

This K member is a '73-76 A body V8 unit as well. I'm still working on it, but note the reinforced mounts as compared to the originals in the previous pictures.

Final A body K member shot:

This K will also get the seams welded and the welds ground smoothe. It is going into a '72 Duster 340 clone.

Not saying you did it wrong at all. Another thing is to jump around and not keep running one continuous line. I only know this stuff from trussing axles in Cummins Dodges so they dont smile when landing lol!

The B body K member once again. I meant to shoot this angle before, but I missed it. From here, you can see the front side of the steering box mounts that are now filled in, plus an additional gusset that looks like a black Dorito's chip.

I don't think I have enough guts to add pieces, but when I finally get this piece out, I might add some welds. A lot of my car appears like it is basically tack welded togther, amazing it lasted this long.

It might seem that our cars were just tacked together, but they DID last this long, right?
Tom Quad is one of the strong proponents of welding up the seams in the unibody and K member. Toms posts appear to be the work of a man that has far more experience than I do.
The K member in my Charger works fine. It is not damaged and I get rarely any bump steer with the car. This K will lay the foundation for any chassis improvements I make later. I expected the subframe connectors and torque boxes to improve things, and they did. The car feels more solid than before. It takes road irregularities in stride, as if I were driving on a smoothe road. This K member upgrade cost me only a few bucks in metal stock, some MIG wire and Argon.....plus a few $ for saw blades and grinder discs.

That was a good idea to do patterns with cardboard. I'm going to use it in the future.

Im gonna do mine when I yank out the engine in a week or two.

Do you mind if I post a few pictures of mine? I did the same thing you for the most part.

I welcome anyone to join in and post their own pictures! I always welcome the opportunity to learn from someone.
JCC: Some very valid points in your post. I agree that the steering box stiffening and the benefits thereof may be less noticeable at higher speed. Part of that may be because the steering angle at speed is in a narrower range. I agree that there MAY be minimal benefits from the welded seams. I just enjoy welding and thought that it might help.
For those of us that have no interest in switching to an aftermarket K member, these mods may be of interest.

I know what I'll be doing once I get the correct K for my Cuda. I wanted to do this when I had my previous car but never did. This time though, different story. Very insightful and a BIG thank you for posting pics..