" dingleberry" hones....
#1177706
02/13/12 03:39 PM
02/13/12 03:39 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 370
beedees
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: beedees]
#1177707
02/13/12 04:27 PM
02/13/12 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 26,037 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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They work good as a glaze-breaker, they're all I use anymore.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#1177709
02/13/12 04:33 PM
02/13/12 04:33 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
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I used one on 2 engines now. works great, very easy to use. don't over spin them on the speed, or you'll find a dingle berry or 2 will pull through the middle, and you'll get one really long and one really short ball opposite of each other.
oil up the stones, spin it slowly as you stab it in the hole, keep it at a 100-200 rpm while going up and down in the hole 10-12 strokes. pay attention to your cross hatch pattern, and adjust your stroke speed to match your RPM for a nice 45 degree cross hatch. After I've done the 10-12 stroke and get a good fresh cross hatch, I like to do 3-5 strokes while spinning the drill backwards, then wipe it down with paper towels and ATF to get all the grit and grime out of the cylinder. then wash the whole block with soapy water, dry it, wipe everything down with ATF again, then start assembly!
For what the local machine shop charges for a hone job, I'll just buy a ball flex hone and do it myself. already the purchase of the hone has paid for itself, by doing 2 engine blocks with it.
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: buildanother]
#1177711
02/13/12 05:01 PM
02/13/12 05:01 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 370
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#1177715
02/13/12 06:21 PM
02/13/12 06:21 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911 Oregon
hooziewhatsit
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,911
Oregon
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Any particular grit that should be used? And, any particular type of ring you should use, or shouldn't use, with this type of hone?
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: beedees]
#1177716
02/13/12 06:23 PM
02/13/12 06:23 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
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I used to use them, until I got laughed at, at the track. It was suggested that I invest in a real hone by my crew chief/tuner, who is a 5 time world champ in TAD who was doing the laughing. Since then I have had way better luck rebuilding motors and have had great ring seal. If your gonna do it again and again, I would invest in one. It's cheaper than a CK-10. Also need a dial bore gauge, a big drill and big arms.
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: dogdays]
#1177718
02/13/12 09:45 PM
02/13/12 09:45 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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They work excellent for a rering as they remove little to no material plus give an excellent plateau'd finish. The out of round/taper you had before is the out of round taper you'll have now. Follow their instructions for drill speed/rate etc. They (BRM) have a list of OEM/aftermarket satisfied users a mile long who swear by it. Best use is to bore and ck-10 rigid hone to size then plateau it w the dingleberry. They (BRM) want you to bore to size then dingleberry w no rigid hone, I disagree there, the ball hone only hits/creates the surface plateau not deeper like a rigid hone does & prob is then you can easily wear past the plateau's and be into rough territory but you need the ball hone for the final plateau that the rigid hone does not deliver
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1177719
02/13/12 10:53 PM
02/13/12 10:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,799 ILL
MLR426
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ILL
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Quote:
I used to use them, until I got laughed at, at the track. It was suggested that I invest in a real hone by my crew chief/tuner, who is a 5 time world champ in TAD who was doing the laughing. Since then I have had way better luck rebuilding motors and have had great ring seal. If your gonna do it again and again, I would invest in one. It's cheaper than a CK-10. Also need a dial bore gauge, a big drill and big arms.
I have that rigid hone kit and it's available through my Radiac Abrasives auto aftermarket engine rebuilding and shop supplies catalog. 800-223-0457 ask for Lori or Jim.
logan426
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1177720
02/13/12 11:54 PM
02/13/12 11:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 343 S.E.Mich
drew72
enthusiast
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S.E.Mich
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Quote:
They work excellent for a rering as they remove little to no material plus give an excellent plateau'd finish. The out of round/taper you had before is the out of round taper you'll have now. Follow their instructions for drill speed/rate etc. They (BRM) have a list of OEM/aftermarket satisfied users a mile long who swear by it. Best use is to bore and ck-10 rigid hone to size then plateau it w the dingleberry. They (BRM) want you to bore to size then dingleberry w no rigid hone, I disagree there, the ball hone only hits/creates the surface plateau not deeper like a rigid hone does & prob is then you can easily wear past the plateau's and be into rough territory but you need the ball hone for the final plateau that the rigid hone does not deliver
Sorry, but anybody that owns or uses a ck10 or cv616 should already know that the final step in honing a performance block is to use a plateau stone. There is a place for a ball hone, but not on a freshly finished cylinder bore.
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1177724
02/14/12 11:30 AM
02/14/12 11:30 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
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Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
Quote:
The paperwork with my piston rings says "220-280".
iron rings or moly rings?
Yes, ring design/material determines what grit to use!!
old style, original cast iron rings, then you want the rougher 220-280 grits. with moly, you want finer, like around 320.
And yes, on a re-ring job, the flexball hone is great for the reasons mentioned above. again, it won't allow you to final hone to size for your piston to wall clearance, and I wouldn't use it to hone a freshly bored cylinder, but if all you're doing is re-ringing a cylinder that was already properly machined, then they work great.
saying that they remove minimal material is an understatement. I say they remove NO material, and only rough up the surface to allow the new rings to seat.
the last engine I did, after running the hone through a few times, I still had slight discoloration at the top of the bore from the carbon staining above the top ring. carbon was gone and the finish was smooth to the touch, but you could still see the brown ring around the top of the bore. Which doesn't really matter anyway, if youre using the same rods, pistons, etc. and just putting in new rings, since the old rings left carbon there, the new rings will never be rubbing there either.
**Photobucket sucks**
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