Thought I would share things I have learned over the years of circle track racing.Let me see if I can post some pic. These are some of the things you will need in the pic. Some of this may be a little difficult but the info is still worth sharing. All of these mods can be found on Mopar Chat in the circle track section. There is not a lot of pic left because the post is so old,so i will post and explane as best i can.

I use a remote oil filter,so the first thing i do is to drill and tap the block to 3/8NPT Before I tap the hole I make sure the holes are 1/2inch. I use #10 line to the remote filter.

Here is the remote oil filter. Notice it has #8 marked on the rt, that is for priority oiling to #1 main. I can only post one pic at a time so bear with me.]

Now remember when I refur to the rt side of the block im talking about the pass side. From the top of the block remove the oil sending unit and drive out the frezee plug that is inbetween the two oil galleys. I use a 5/16 alltread for this. Now make sure this passage is 1/2 if not drill it from the rear main to the main oil galley that feeds the rt lifters.You only need to go as far as the oil galley that feeds the rt side lifters that is the main oil galley. Some blocks do not have a frezee plug inbetween the two oil galleys before you try to remove it with the 5/16 alltread look to see if there is a freeze plug in there.I dont know how they do it but if its cast iron in there its already 1/2 on the other side. Dont forget to put the plug back in when you put the engine back together!!

Now use the long 9/32 drill and drill the oil feed holes from the main bearing saddles to the main oil galley on the rt side if the block sometimes they are already 9/32 but not deep enough. I leave the ones in the center (they feed the cam and rockers)alone if using stock rocker arm oiling. I have also seen these holes already drilled to 5/16 which is better than 9/32. Drill all 4mains, the rear main hole should allready be big enough.

I also drill and tap the oil pump pick up to 1/2npt. Just make sure you support the tube with some kind of bracket. The fitting that is shown here will screw into the pump and have 3/4 I.D for new pick-up tube that I make from 3/4x.060 wall tubing. A little trick to bending this tube. weld a cap on one end,fill with sand and cap other end,heat and bend works perfect every time. Also use the oil pump gasket and match port the main cap and oil pump housing. I also try to make the pick up screen 8-10sq in. I do not have a pic of this because it on the car now. MAKE SURE THE PICK UP IS 3/8-1/2 OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN VERRY CRITICAL!!!

Nice informational post,

I don't know enough to comment on this post, but I will add that if one wants to cleanup that which is unneeded IMO on a modified small block, this is one area as to what it looks like afterwards to one of my SB strokers.

Now to the top end. At the rf of the block at the end of the lifter oil galley I tap for 3/8 # 8 fitting. At the back of the block in the china wall I drill for #8 bulkhead. this is were we put the #8 line from the remote filter. Now both ends of the main oil galley are fead from both ends. No more #1 main bearing failure.

Now you can see the tube that I use to oil the left lifter galley. If you want to oil the Left side this way you must block the oil that comes up from the #1main. Just put 2 frezee plugs in the left front oil galley covering the oil hole from the #1 main bearing. The tube itself is a 3/16 brake line with a compression fitting. Tapped into the oil galley with 1/8npt.

What we are trying to do is keep as much oil to the crank as possible. The stock oiling to the left lifter galley is feed from the #1 main. By blocking it off and feeding it with the crossover tube the #1 main will live longer.

You are rt there is equal psi everywere. I just know I have been doing it like this in several engines with great success.I also think it will work as you say W/O blocking it. I also block oil to the cam bearings with a set screw and a .080 hole drilled in them from the
1-4 main bearings. this also keeps more oil at the mains& rods.

Mike, Thanks for (re)posting these over here.
Can you go back a little bit and fill folks in on what sort of usage calls for this?

The stock oil sys is fine for everyday driving. I you use the engine for anything other than everyday driving some or all of the mods should be done. In my street stock the max rpm is 6250 and the min is 4200 but I have to run 25 laps and the oil temp can approch 300deg. The mods are not that hard to do and I think of them as insurance. I am by no means an expert and these mods can be found on Mopar Chat in the circle track section. With the above mods the engine will live at 8000rpm.

One other thing that I forgot to post in the above. The holes in the upper halves of the main bearings need to be slotted to match the oil holes in the block. I use a die grinder or a drimel tool. If you have a milling machine thats good also. Just make sure you debur when done. I also like King 3/4 grove mains. with .oo25 rod clearance and
.0025-.003 on the mains. THE ONLY OIL I WILL EVER USE IS MOBIL ONE 10W-30 WITH ADDED ZDDP BECAUSE OF HIGH OIL TEMP!!1

I have learned a lot about high oil temp. To lower your oil temp you need a thiner oil. Thin oil = flow. Flow= cooler oil temp. Thick oil is restance to flow= high oil preasure and high oil temp. The best way to get the proper wt oil for your engine is to get the oil temp(not water temp) up to 215deg let the engine idle,if you have more than 20psi @1000rpm go to a liter oil. Windage trays,and crank wipers also help which I also use.

Is it possible to run an oil cooler on your track car? If so, what are you using?
Oil doesn't like 300*

No oil cooler alowed, That is why full synthic is my choice. It use to go to 300deg. Now with the crank scraper,windage tray and lite oil it very rearly gets over 280. If the track is dry slick I can zing the tires at will,when its hooked up and tacky thats when the engine is loaded the most.

Thanks Mike, for the replies. I've done most of these mods to my 360 block with the exception of the crossover tube, line to #1 and the restrictors to the cam bearings.
The tighter bearing clearances are a necessity for endurance motors. I would consider calling Joe Gibbs and see if they have an oil that they recommend. I sat through one of their seminars and was VERY impressed with their knowledge. They go clear into crosshatch angle and depth helping to decide what oil to use. Just a thought. Even if you chose not to use their oils, it might give you a few new ideas.