Handling tips for trucks
#1157442
01/14/12 09:41 PM
01/14/12 09:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109 Indiana, PA
moparjim87
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 109
Indiana, PA
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I've read a good bit already in this forum on handling setups for cars, but what about trucks? I have an 87 d100, originally a \6-auto truck, now a small block and soon to be a four speed. I've already lowered it (one coil wrap cut off in front, all but two leaves and bottom overload removed in rear). Now, for handling mods, my plans are: factory sway up front with custom hiem endlinks, rear sway from a 95 tahoe, with custom mount points as well as the aforementioned endlinks, v8 coils for stiffer rate(cut to lower of course), and 295/50/15 cooper cobras on 15x8 turbine wheels at all four corners. I'm also planning some control arm boxing/stiffening, frame boxing, and lightening as well. Id like some comments, as well as ideas to improve my theroy for making this pig stick to the road. Btw, whoever started this section of the forum is the man, he finally has seen the interest in people's interest in corner carving ability in an old mope. Rock on guys, and thanks for your inputs!!!
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1157445
01/14/12 11:12 PM
01/14/12 11:12 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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How does stiffening the cab to frame mount points help the suspension work better? By reducing the tendency for the weight of the cab to shift in a hard turn?
I don't think any of the Dakota guys have done that, and yet lots of us are super happy with the hotchkis stuff and how it improves handling. I don't know if boxing the frame will gain anything, sure it'll be stiffer, but it'll be a lot heavier too.
There's a guy making some cross bracing for the Dakota frames which help to stiffen everything while only adding 30-ish lbs. Frame twist is greatly reduced!! Stock frames you can see the frame twisting when you hit bumps, as the bed looks like it "rattles" when you see it in the side mirror. Add the cross brace and that goes away. Then again Dakota frames are fully boxed from the front to just behind the cab anyway, and only the rear half under the bed is a "C" channel
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: 67autocross]
#1157446
01/14/12 11:14 PM
01/14/12 11:14 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Maybe you can fabricate a way to add Dakota hotchkis sways? I don't know how big the stock front sway is or the Tahoe rear, but the Dakota hotchkis is 1.5" up front, 15/16" in the rear
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: moparjim87]
#1157447
01/14/12 11:25 PM
01/14/12 11:25 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 657 Alberta
rustbuckett68
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 657
Alberta
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Seem to remember that some GM guys used to use a 3/4T front sway bay (larger diameter), but not sure about the Dodges. Could be an easy swap. Some of the "camper specials"/ (?) 3/4T might have had a rear bar. It might help.
Last edited by rustbuckett68; 01/14/12 11:27 PM.
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: moparjim87]
#1157450
01/15/12 12:08 PM
01/15/12 12:08 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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on my 85 stepside, i added the steer box brace/front sway bar/cut one coil off stock springs/new bushings/BJs for the rear I flip the shackle and floped the rear axle on top of the springs,removed the overload spring. this is more for a drag truck set up,but I was amazed at how well it stiffend up the handleing while going around coners nice and tight/flat. ride is much better also,does not jump around in the back like most trucks with axle under spring.has no wheel hop,great for street duty. did the same on the 88-440 truck but its more of a drag truck,did the same mods but went mono leafs and liftbars,lowerd tubbed with A-body 8 3/4 tucking 12" rims/29x15x15 in the fenders. also useing 94 jeep cherokee front springs cut so they are 1 coil taller than stock,this will make the front soft but have stored energy for good weight transfer on the launch,it needs the front to rise fast so the lift bars plant the rear tires. wont see the curves the stepside will see,but thats why i have 2 trucks now,one for drag and one for street duty IMHO,the steer box brace and front sway bar are the 2 best things you can do for handleing on the trucks,3rd would be box the LCA and box some of the frame rails another thing I have noticed is a lot of trucks that have had the trans out,dont get the 2 lower xmember supports put back on,this lets the fram twist/flex more in the middle were the cross braces have the largest gap between them, those lower braces are needed for this and do stiffen up the frame over all. i just see to many with out them and only think about how much flex it will cause.
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1157451
01/17/12 07:18 PM
01/17/12 07:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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Scratchy and I have disscussed this idea. 1 add the steering box brace no ifs ands or butts... I have following ideas for the front.. 2 our front springs are around 850 lbs and are 12.5 tall unloaded SO change the front springs to a set of stock car 1050s that are 11 " tall. you automaticly get 1 1/2' plus the compression to lower a little more, take another 1/2 coil if it needs to go lower a good set of adjustable shocks. larger sway bar. ( I am going to measure the front bar on my dually). 3 change the X member for a 4x4 X. This eliminates the coil spring pockets. get a set of the weld on/adjustable coil over shock mounts . 3 plate the upper A frame and the lower control arm to prevent flex. 4 use as much poly bushings as possible. for the rear end you can go with the triangulated 4 likk or the 3 link with a watts link to control the rear end. with either set up you can use either a coil spring or a coil over set up. the R/T Dakota rear sway bar is a direct bolt on to the D chassis. It could be beefier tho. thats my check out the website below for more ideas http://artmorrison.com/homepage.html
I am truckless..
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1157453
01/21/12 02:43 PM
01/21/12 02:43 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 468 Dirty Dena, Maryland
dodge turbo
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 468
Dirty Dena, Maryland
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I had the hoditkis bar on my 78 and if fit perfect with the rear flipped and below the springs.., i took it off because i would not fit with the caltracs on the truck now
78 Adventurer 150small block turbo'd 360w/Borg S475....smoke'em
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: moparjim87]
#1157456
01/28/12 09:24 PM
01/28/12 09:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,071 Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
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Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,071
Irving, TX
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My truck is a 92 D250 Cummins Club Cab. It's not a corner carver and doesn't pretend to be. Despite the heavy springs and front sway bar on this thing it wobbles about in the turns like a drunken sailor. Adding the rear sway bar from Energy Suspension made a big difference in the body roll.
I imagine the difference would be even better on your truck due to the lighter weight and lower stance.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind. - Stu Harmon
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: moparjim87]
#1157458
08/11/12 12:37 AM
08/11/12 12:37 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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There are 4 different front springs for the D100/150 trucks ranging from 660 to 880 LB rating.
I also believe that standing the rear shocks up at a straighter angle will help them work better..
I am truckless..
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Re: Handling tips for trucks
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1157460
08/15/12 09:44 PM
08/15/12 09:44 PM
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 168 Washington State, USA
Winchester 73
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 168
Washington State, USA
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Quote:
How does stiffening the cab to frame mount points help the suspension work better? By reducing the tendency for the weight of the cab to shift in a hard turn?
I don't think any of the Dakota guys have done that, and yet lots of us are super happy with the hotchkis stuff and how it improves handling. I don't know if boxing the frame will gain anything, sure it'll be stiffer, but it'll be a lot heavier too.
There's a guy making some cross bracing for the Dakota frames which help to stiffen everything while only adding 30-ish lbs. Frame twist is greatly reduced!! Stock frames you can see the frame twisting when you hit bumps, as the bed looks like it "rattles" when you see it in the side mirror. Add the cross brace and that goes away. Then again Dakota frames are fully boxed from the front to just behind the cab anyway, and only the rear half under the bed is a "C" channel
i think pretty universally in handling, rubber body mounts are one of the first things to get tossed.ask a chevy guy?
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