|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: dangina]
#1157266
02/21/12 07:29 PM
02/21/12 07:29 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
brads70
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
|
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for the reply! Wow 10 LBS!!!! that IS light!  When you ordered from Hypercoil did you or were you able to specify the lenght and segments. Like for my e-body I'd need 22 in the front and 35 in the rear to be able to bolt in?
unfortunatly they one make the most common spring which is a 20" front segment - that fits most mopars - you need the 2" front hanger from firm feel to run these springs, just as you would use the same hanger to run the SS springs....I'll post a pic of the firm feel hanger tonight - they're pretty beefy - the beefiest ones i could find,,,
Sounds good! I'm almost ready to order a Dana 60 and Dr Diff's offset kit for B-Body width. I don't know if this will work for my application?
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: brads70]
#1157269
02/26/12 05:33 PM
02/26/12 05:33 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
|
Quote:
Looking forward to the picture!
sorry brad been up till 4am the last 2 nights prepping my car for the bodyshop - ill get a pic of the bracket for u today
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: brads70]
#1157270
02/27/12 12:05 PM
02/27/12 12:05 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,394
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,394
Pikes Peak Country
|
he is a link to the Firm Feel units. I don't think they offer them with the inboard offset; http://www.firmfeel.com/leafhang_e.htmThis is the Mancini Mopar set up that is .8" per side, that is also set up for SS length front spring segments. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/manofshacand2.htmlThere is also the Dr Diff offering for 1" offset for use with SS style spring segments. http://www.doctordiff.com/?page_id=41If you planning on a Body rear with the inboard spring set, either Dr Diff or Mancini can supply the kit you need, even if you do use fiberglass springs. I believe Firm Feel can also, but you need to ask them as it may be an unadvertised unit that is not listed on their website. Also, just so you know, most oval track spring suppliers who are offering the composite springs have lifted their design directly off the Direct Connection oval track spings developed in the mid 70s. The same typically holds true to any steel spring offerings they have as well. These springs have a 20.5" front segment at installed height and are not a true 20" set up like an SS springs. SS hangers will work with these, but will move the housing back half an inch. Not a huge amount, but to some, a noticeable distance.
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: brads70]
#1157272
02/28/12 12:40 AM
02/28/12 12:40 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,394
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,394
Pikes Peak Country
|
I wouldn't worry about a half inch. You figure a longer, wider wheelbase contributes to more lateral holding power, albeit it minor, but what the heck. I never thought about undercoating as a means to protect the spring. That is a good idea. It is semi-flexible, so that might be a good way to avoid the nicks that could lead to splintering without it cracking and flaking off. Sure would look better than wrapping them in duct tape. The rate may be pretty decent. I don't recall if you have a rear sway bar or not, but if you don't you may not need to add one. If you do, you may want to experiment with disconnecting it. Not sure. I've never used fiberglass springs myself, but some of the oval track guys I've talked say you actually need to rate them higher than steel springs. I wouldn't know why, rate is rate, so maybe it is a old witch doctor's tale to confuse the competitors.
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1157273
02/28/12 04:56 AM
02/28/12 04:56 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
|
Quote:
I wouldn't worry about a half inch. You figure a longer, wider wheelbase contributes to more lateral holding power, albeit it minor, but what the heck.
I never thought about undercoating as a means to protect the spring. That is a good idea. It is semi-flexible, so that might be a good way to avoid the nicks that could lead to splintering without it cracking and flaking off. Sure would look better than wrapping them in duct tape.
The rate may be pretty decent. I don't recall if you have a rear sway bar or not, but if you don't you may not need to add one. If you do, you may want to experiment with disconnecting it. Not sure. I've never used fiberglass springs myself, but some of the oval track guys I've talked say you actually need to rate them higher than steel springs. I wouldn't know why, rate is rate, so maybe it is a old witch doctor's tale to confuse the competitors.
What he said is true - Here is is a few answers I got from Richie Cox of Hypercoils as I was asking a few of the same questions when I was looking to buy them(sorry I mashed them all into one answer but you get at what I was asking him):
"We do make a Chrysler leaf spring in 225#. You may wish to check the dimensions of your leafs against our dimensions, since the 1971 B body’s differed slightly from model to model. The overall length from center of each eye is 53 7/8”, the center of front eye straight across to the center pin is 20.5”. Our leafs are all made to a 4.5” arch as well.They handle pretty well, as long as they are used in conjuction with a good shock. We have had several people use them and they all seem to like them for street use.Our leafs could be used, but you would have to slightly modify the mounting location on the front side, the rear mount should be close enough to work, but the front mounts would be about 1.5” too far forward. The bilstein shocks would work great with these leaf springs. Our Chrysler leafs were designed to work on the 64-70 b-bodys.The rear shackles should work ok, and the longer front shackles may help with the extra length of the springs. As for the bushings, they are 2 pc urethane, and the duct tape idea is for helping to keep damage to the leafs from rocks, etc hitting them, and any duct tape should work if you choose to use it.The leaf spring rate will as a rule of thumb be much lighter than the rate you would use for a coilover, mainly due to the fact that the leaf spring works over a much larger area. On most street stock dirt track cars, they use a 225-250# rate on the leaf springs, and they hold up really well. The ride will probably be softer with the leafs, than on coils, since the leaf has much more area to absorb the weight put on it. There may be slightly more “bounce” in the ride than a coilover, but the performance mixed with comfort is a pretty good balance."
I just fired off Richie about using the rubberized coating so I'll post his answer when he gets back to me - And here is the brackets as promised(couple days late) they are a full 1/4" thick from firm feel but not advertised on their site yet:
Last edited by dangina; 02/28/12 05:05 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1157275
02/28/12 10:27 AM
02/28/12 10:27 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
brads70
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
|
Quote:
I wouldn't worry about a half inch. You figure a longer, wider wheelbase contributes to more lateral holding power, albeit it minor, but what the heck.
I never thought about undercoating as a means to protect the spring. That is a good idea. It is semi-flexible, so that might be a good way to avoid the nicks that could lead to splintering without it cracking and flaking off. Sure would look better than wrapping them in duct tape.
The rate may be pretty decent. I don't recall if you have a rear sway bar or not, but if you don't you may not need to add one. If you do, you may want to experiment with disconnecting it. Not sure. I've never used fiberglass springs myself, but some of the oval track guys I've talked say you actually need to rate them higher than steel springs. I wouldn't know why, rate is rate, so maybe it is a old witch doctor's tale to confuse the competitors.
Yep I have both front and rear Hotchkis sway bars. As mentioned B-Body's are slightly heavier so I figured the rear should be less too, that and Hotchkis advertises a 160Lb rate for e-bodies?
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: brads70]
#1157276
02/28/12 11:31 AM
02/28/12 11:31 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
|
Quote:
They look nice! I wonder why they don't box them in at the top? That sure would take any flex out of them.
I thought of that too - I may or may not still do this - I'll have to wait and drive with them first to see
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1157278
02/28/12 02:32 PM
02/28/12 02:32 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
patrick
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
|
Quote:
I've wanted to run these for years for the huge unsprung weight reduction, but durability testing at Chrysler (Chelsea PG) had ALL fiberglass / composite springs failing, and this was on an undriven rear axle (minivan).
If I could be convinced that something has changed / improved...
Rick
at what level of cycling did the failure occur? steel leaf springs are most likely designed to be infinite life items, if in the minivan testing, it failed at 500k or 700k cycles, well...it's not infinite, but it doesn't mean it wouldn't last a very long time in an application that gets driven 6 months and maybe 4k miles out of the year...
I'd definitely inspect regularly, but they have been proven in a street application over at GM in the vette (albeit loaded completely different fashion), and IIRC in the astro van (in a very similar fashion to our rear suspension configuration)...couple them with something like a cal-trac to take the wrap out of them, and maybe a panhard bar the lateral load out of them, and that would go a long way in their long term durability.
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1157279
02/28/12 02:55 PM
02/28/12 02:55 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,473
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,473
So Cal
|
Quote:
I've wanted to run these for years for the huge unsprung weight reduction, but durability testing at Chrysler (Chelsea PG) had ALL fiberglass / composite springs failing, and this was on an undriven rear axle (minivan).
If I could be convinced that something has changed / improved...
Rick
wrack71 just found cracks in his Flex A Forms he bought a year ago. Don't know the milage on them. But Mitch Lelito has had them for years. So have others.
So... 
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: jcc]
#1157283
02/28/12 05:52 PM
02/28/12 05:52 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
brads70
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
|
Quote:
Quote:
They look nice! I wonder why they don't box them in at the top? That sure would take any flex out of them.
Like this?
Looks good!
|
|
|
Re: Fiberglass Springs any good?
[Re: jcc]
#1157285
02/28/12 09:03 PM
02/28/12 09:03 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
dangina
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,491
Lethbridge, AB, Canada
|
Quote:
Quote:
They look nice! I wonder why they don't box them in at the top? That sure would take any flex out of them.
Like this?
curious as to the hole in the middle - weight savings?
|
|
|
|
|
