Interesting. I had asked about this company in the past, and did not hear good things. You sound satisfied with the parts. Do you know what brand they were?

Thanks mopork, 71-72 B's are my favorite bodystyle too.

zrxkawboy: I am very satisfied with everything. Parts were a combination of Mccquay Norris (idler arm), energy suspension (bushings), and BAW (ballpoints and tierods). I tried this kit after I started a thread about a different one that I found on Ebay. Another member posted a link to this company and said he had tried it and was happy with the kit.

Also, I kept the stock size tierod ends, but I did get new adjusting sleeves from Autozone, Duralast brand.

I didn't read the whole thread but I did catch some posts. I hope this isn't redundant.

1. Torque everything except the UCA and LCA bushing Nuts when assembling the front end. If the Bushings are Poly torque them also.

2. Ball joints that are round on the side where the grease fitting is they are press in. If it has 4 flats then it is screw in. DO NOT PRESS OUT A SCREW IN BALL JOINT! I have seen this happen too often.

To rough adjust the suspension.

1. Rough in the Tie Rods making sure each side is equal while in the air but pay attention to the centering of the steering wheel.

2. Adjust the rear of the UCA All the way in and the front all the way out. Snug them down.

3. Leave the shocks disconnected and Put the car on the ground. Adjust the T-bars to the correct ride height or so that each side of the car is equal height if you want to alter the ride height. Bounce the car and check.

3. With the car on the ground move the front UCA pivot in until the Sidewall of the tire is perpendicular with a bubble level. If the front is not enough then start moving the back out until you get it as best as possible. Repeat for the other side.

4. Center the steering wheel. Place a Heavy Jack stand behind the rear tire and in front of the front tire then pull a string tight between them. Move the front jack stand out so the string just barely touches the across the front sidewall of the rear tire. Measure the distance from the string to the rear edge of the front tire and repeat for the front edge of the front tire at the same height. Adjust the Tie Rod End on that side to get the distances about equal. Make sure the Steering wheel is centered as you do. repeat for the other side.

If your front and back tires are the same size you can do it by line of sight.

If you want to throw a little tow in then after adjusting the to be perfect you can readjust them equally to add/remove toe.
Tighten the Control arms if you haven't already attach the shocks and drive it around the block.

Check the ride height and adjust as needed.

If it is your first time it will not be perfect but it will get you safely to a shop.

Bryan,
Thanx for that.
I have saved it for futur refernce. It will be invaluable.

IMGTX, thanks for the writeup on the rough alignment, I saved it for future reference. Luckily I was able to get it close enough where I could drive it, drives pretty well in fact. Holds a straight line on acceleration/deceleration, tracks well and doesn't jump or pull at all. Good enough until Wednesday when I can get to the alignment shop. I even drove it to work today.

I had the Mancini kit so bushings and balljoints were easy.

Also, I ended up tourqing the UCA/LCA bolts on a loaded suspension just because of how often it's been reiterated to do it that way. But i've had the car back on Jackstands for a couple of things since then. And as I watched the bushings I noticed that because of the lube they rotate completely in their shells, and thought to myself "well, I guess I could've went ahead and torqued those down during assembly". They don't bind like the rubber ones and therefore can't get that preload which can make rubber bushings fail early. But now I know.

I did have the.shockes connected when I adjusted ride height though. I didn't know I wasn't supposed to. Will that hurt anything?

Shocks hooked up are OK but you should bounce it to see that the ride height settles when you do adjust it. Sometimes the friction of suspension movement will not show the true ride height until it is bounced or driven a little but it isn't usually much difference if at all.

Love that car

I'm a pretty big guy to be trying to crank up the torsion bars while the car is on the ground. Is it okay to preload the torsion bar adjustment some before the car hits the ground?