Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1151945
01/08/12 02:29 PM
01/08/12 02:29 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley
RodStRace
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
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Put the subframe connectors in, then see how it runs. Racing eats up money. I'll bet after a dozen passes you will have something asking for money right now. Better to feed it what it needs than toss all your money on stuff that will make it break faster right now. Have fun and tell us how it goes!
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: 67Satty]
#1151946
01/08/12 03:10 PM
01/08/12 03:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,260 Las Vegas NV
moparmanjames
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,260
Las Vegas NV
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Quote:
Quote:
every one is right, it should run 12s now, he should be askin how to spend that $1500 to see 11s
OK, how can I get this thing in the 11s for another $1500?
Take the heads off and do a little home porting, buy a roller cam setup with around .650 lift, 260*@.050, and a 108 lsa, or 106 lsa if you can find one. If you have enough left over buy a nice used Dominator carb and run mid 11's all day.
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: sshemi]
#1151947
01/08/12 04:54 PM
01/08/12 04:54 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746
Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Heads, heads, heads, heads
nice set of eddies and they take 40 or so pounds of the front some hand porting on top!
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: 67Satty]
#1151948
01/08/12 05:02 PM
01/08/12 05:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,066
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
I've done online compression ratio calculators and worked out the math with scratch paper 'til I'm blue in the face and I'm pretty confident about my compression ratio, but if you can tell me how you worked the math that it isn't 9.75:1 I'm all ears.
Unless he has your motor specs he couldn't really , no offense Bob , you didn't give anywhere near enough info in your description for anyone to more than speculate your compression ratio.
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: 67Satty]
#1151949
01/08/12 05:15 PM
01/08/12 05:15 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Test it first... then see where your at... can be as simple as jetting.... or maybe advancing the cam if you dont know what its installed at
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: 67Satty]
#1151950
01/08/12 05:44 PM
01/08/12 05:44 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293 Rock Springs
Bob_Coomer
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,293
Rock Springs
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Quote:
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Better check your math again that compression even with zero deck flat tops unless your open chamber heads usually 90+cc's have been milled to around 80cc's. I would buy a set of Stealth's have them looked over good, and upgrade the cam... I built a similar engine for my Cuda, stock 71 440 steel crank, KB 237's which are about .010 in the hole with my deck height, a set of OOTB Steal (82cc)thE heads worked out to be about 9.8:1 or so and the car would run high 12's with stock converter, and 3.31 gears, and a 270/.470 Comp Cam, RPM intake and bg 750 Gold Claw carb. I know without question it would have run well into the 11's with another converter (4K) and old MP solid cam I had laying around.... but the car was a daily driver and actually got 14-15 MPG the way it was!
I've done online compression ratio calculators and worked out the math with scratch paper 'til I'm blue in the face and I'm pretty confident about my compression ratio, but if you can tell me how you worked the math that it isn't 9.75:1 I'm all ears.
Seems like you should have gone faster than high 12s with aluminum heads in your combo. I had a '72 Challenger with a 426 wedge and stock 906 heads, Torker intake, 750 vac sec that did 12.80s on used-up slicks spinning all the way through first gear. Maybe that makes a good argument for me saving the $1000+ dollars that aluminum heads would cost me.
If you know so much why bother to post.. No use it telling you that my car did it with street tires, and 3.31 gears too. You come here and post about your stock iron head engine with a hyd cam car which has some good points, like converter and gear.... If you didnt want constructive criticism why post? Your car has good potential, and should be running well right now, actually meeting your goals... Next logic step is to ditch the stock heads and hyd flat cam, like Myself and others have suggested.. Thats how I would spend $1500, you asked so we told you Like I said if my car had more gear and converter with some decent traction, it would run deep 11's. I went 7.20's in the 8th mile with this car... Edelbrock heads, pump gas, .557 MP cam and 3.90 gears, on 28x10 slicks... I drove the car 80 miles each way too... The car weighed 3800+ lbs with driver! These heads were OOTB and mirror the Stealth's. Just letting you know what these can do in a half way state of tune!
[color:"red"]65 Hemi Belvedere coming soon [/color] [color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1.07 60ft 144mph in the 8th 2100 lbs package [/color]
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Re: Help Me Spend $1500 to Go Faster
[Re: Bob_Coomer]
#1151951
01/08/12 06:33 PM
01/08/12 06:33 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,271 Vista, California
67Satty
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,271
Vista, California
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Better check your math again that compression even with zero deck flat tops unless your open chamber heads usually 90+cc's have been milled to around 80cc's. I would buy a set of Stealth's have them looked over good, and upgrade the cam... I built a similar engine for my Cuda, stock 71 440 steel crank, KB 237's which are about .010 in the hole with my deck height, a set of OOTB Steal (82cc)thE heads worked out to be about 9.8:1 or so and the car would run high 12's with stock converter, and 3.31 gears, and a 270/.470 Comp Cam, RPM intake and bg 750 Gold Claw carb. I know without question it would have run well into the 11's with another converter (4K) and old MP solid cam I had laying around.... but the car was a daily driver and actually got 14-15 MPG the way it was!
I've done online compression ratio calculators and worked out the math with scratch paper 'til I'm blue in the face and I'm pretty confident about my compression ratio, but if you can tell me how you worked the math that it isn't 9.75:1 I'm all ears.
Seems like you should have gone faster than high 12s with aluminum heads in your combo. I had a '72 Challenger with a 426 wedge and stock 906 heads, Torker intake, 750 vac sec that did 12.80s on used-up slicks spinning all the way through first gear. Maybe that makes a good argument for me saving the $1000+ dollars that aluminum heads would cost me.
If you know so much why bother to post.. No use it telling you that my car did it with street tires, and 3.31 gears too. You come here and post about your stock iron head engine with a hyd cam car which has some good points, like converter and gear.... If you didnt want constructive criticism why post? Your car has good potential, and should be running well right now, actually meeting your goals... Next logic step is to ditch the stock heads and hyd flat cam, like Myself and others have suggested.. Thats how I would spend $1500, you asked so we told you Like I said if my car had more gear and converter with some decent traction, it would run deep 11's. I went 7.20's in the 8th mile with this car... Edelbrock heads, pump gas, .557 MP cam and 3.90 gears, on 28x10 slicks... I drove the car 80 miles each way too... The car weighed 3800+ lbs with driver! These heads were OOTB and mirror the Stealth's. Just letting you know what these can do in a half way state of tune!
Take it easy, it wanted ideas and I've been getting them, and I do appreciate all of them. I didn't mean anything by my post, just that I don't see how you can know my compression ratio without knowing what my pistons (dome, flat, dished, valve reliefs), head gasket thickness, etc..etc...are and I sincerely meant it when I said if there is an error in the way I computed it, I wanted to know so I can learn something. But you haven't pointed out where I made the error in my calculation. Jeez.
As far as what I said about your aluminum-headed E-body going about as fast as my iron-headed E-body, I was just raising the possibility that maybe, just maybe $1000-$2000 aluminum heads aren't the be-all and end-all of meeting performance goals. Maybe there are a lot of other things that matter too. I think your combo proves that.
Again, to everyone, I obviously don't know everything or even much of anything. I'm here to learn from those who have more experience. And I'm very thankful for all the help I've gotten here over the years.
But don't get pissed off if I ask follow-up questions or make comments. Remember, it's hard to read tone in these posts.
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